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Repair or Replace Flywheels? AND Which big bore kit?

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  #11  
Old 12-13-2011, 04:19 PM
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If KCMoose is OK with spending $6K-$7K, the 120R would be the way to go. Forget parting out the old engine; sell it complete and maybe get $1200 for it or keep it for a spare just in case the 120 ***** the bed. Parting out will take forever, not pay back as much and he will never get rid of all the parts.

I got the impression that KCMoose was looking for a way to save some money. Sending the lower unit to Hoban for rework, boring cylinders to 3.932" for 107, new pistons, cams, etc., and the other stuff he listed in the OP will run less than $3K if he does the work himself.

IMHO, it's crazy to spend the $$ for an aftermarket BB kit that doesn't increase displacement beyond what he can get by just boring his seasoned cylinders, plus he avoids the potential headache of dealing with an aftermarket vendor should the BB kit go south as some of them do.
 
  #12  
Old 12-15-2011, 05:33 PM
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After 3 failed 98" Revolution Performance cylinder kits there is no way I would consider Nikasil plated cylinders again. I gave up and had my stockers bored by Randy at Hyperformance and couldn't be happier. In my opinion there's just too many other options to risk the Nik cylinders.

Because these clowns refused to refund me I take every opportunity to let people know my experiences.

Rick
 

Last edited by Egldr05; 12-15-2011 at 05:36 PM.
  #13  
Old 12-16-2011, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by streetg131
So, to the experts responding to this post, whats the dealyo,is there room with the 107 to go a step over on the piston/jug when it comes time for a top end cleanup?
Just curious about this.
So, to the inquiring minds wanting to know, the 107" cylinder boring has been done now for QUITE some time.
We've been keeping an eye on a local Road King, that we bored to 107", our Stage III Heads and a Wood 8 cam, and a 58 S/E TBW t/body.
He is retired and rides daily.
So far he had clocked over 42,000 miles on our kit, without a single hitch.
It run SO good, that he says that "They should be on the showroom floor like this."
IF, and IF, it comes time to address a bore issue, and with T/C take-off cylinders going for as little as $40.00 set on flea-bay, he is not worried whatsoever. Nor should anyone else.
So, if a 120R will produces 130/130, and a 107" kit can produce 120/120 plus, it's a no-brainer, the dollar/power gain, is in fact with the 107"ers.
Scott
 

Last edited by Hillsidecycle.com; 12-16-2011 at 06:03 AM.
  #14  
Old 12-16-2011, 07:09 AM
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so far I have had two 107's 08 and 09 RG--together I put more than 50k miles on them -- would be more but I totalled the 08 -- the 09 is approaching 30k to include a trip to L.A. and back to Atl -- not one issue with the motor
Originally Posted by Hillsidecyclecom
So, to the inquiring minds wanting to know, the 107" cylinder boring has been done now for QUITE some time.
We've been keeping an eye on a local Road King, that we bored to 107", our Stage III Heads and a Wood 8 cam, and a 58 S/E TBW t/body.
He is retired and rides daily.
So far he had clocked over 42,000 miles on our kit, without a single hitch.
It run SO good, that he says that "They should be on the showroom floor like this."
IF, and IF, it comes time to address a bore issue, and with T/C take-off cylinders going for as little as $40.00 set on flea-bay, he is not worried whatsoever. Nor should anyone else.
So, if a 120R will produces 130/130, and a 107" kit can produce 120/120 plus, it's a no-brainer, the dollar/power gain, is in fact with the 107"ers.
Scott
 
  #15  
Old 12-17-2011, 05:15 PM
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I would go with a GMR prepped 120R.

Quote: "So, if a 120R will produces 130/130, and a 107" kit can produce 120/120 plus, it's a no-brainer, the dollar/power gain, is in fact with the 107"ers."

120/120 is what it is, while 130/130 is too, what it is. I'd prefer the 130/130 myself.
 
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