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Too rich carb

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Old 11-25-2011, 08:10 AM
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Default Too rich carb

Hello. I have a 2004 FLSTC and need help with the carb. The bike is stock except for the pipes. I think they are called Big Growls, not real sure. They are un-baffled open pipes. When I bought the bike it had a Dynojet Thunderslide kit in it also. The ridability and fuel use was not very good, so I took it out and put in a stock kit. I know the pipes are an issue, but it has been almost impossible to tune the carb. At idle the smell of raw fuel is very strong and the bike will not idle unless the idle is turned up quite a bit. If you look in the carb while the bike is running there is a solid stream of fuel coming out of the needle, rather than atomized. Is this normal? The air screw almost has no effect when turned in or out. It had a 50 slow jet and a 190 main when I started, so I went to a 46 and left the 190 since this is supposed to be stock. Is there something left of the dynojet kit I missed? The only thing left to change is the accelorator pump and emulsion tube. Any help will be much appreciated.
 
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by gabalis69
Hello. I have a 2004 FLSTC and need help with the carb. The bike is stock except for the pipes. I think they are called Big Growls, not real sure. They are un-baffled open pipes. When I bought the bike it had a Dynojet Thunderslide kit in it also. The ridability and fuel use was not very good, so I took it out and put in a stock kit. I know the pipes are an issue, but it has been almost impossible to tune the carb. At idle the smell of raw fuel is very strong and the bike will not idle unless the idle is turned up quite a bit. If you look in the carb while the bike is running there is a solid stream of fuel coming out of the needle, rather than atomized. Is this normal? The air screw almost has no effect when turned in or out. It had a 50 slow jet and a 190 main when I started, so I went to a 46 and left the 190 since this is supposed to be stock. Is there something left of the dynojet kit I missed? The only thing left to change is the accelorator pump and emulsion tube. Any help will be much appreciated.
Stock jet sizes are 45 and 175, start there although the main jet will not effect idle. The DJ kit also included a plastic slide, adjustable jet needle with e-clip and a different needle jet holder for the main jet. Go back to stock parts if you can. Call your local dealer to check availability of parts (not likely) or go to cv-performance.com for replacements. Once you have your parts,hopefully you have a manual,clean as many parts as you can with carb cleaner.Then carefully remove the a/f screw and make sure the complete packing kit (spring, washer, o-ring) is in place. There is a replacement mixing screw and packing kit available at cv-performance.com that is handy. Never fully tighten the a/f mix screw.Once the a/f screw is in, adjust to 2 turns out for starters. Then carefully inspect the rubber diaphragm on slide for damage. Then you MUST check adjustment on the float (see manual) or go to:http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/need..._your_carb.htm. Which jet needle to use? The stock is an N9E according to my parts manual, I have an '06 FXST. You may try an '88 Sporty needle (27094-88) which a dealer should have. When you put the top of the carburetor back on, you have to make sure the rubber diaphragm is seated properly. Move the slide up and down manually and listen for a sucking sound to ensure proper seating of the diaphragm. Once the carb is back on and the a/f mix screw is 2 turns out, hopefully the engine will idle properly and you can begin to adjust a/f mix and idle screw for best idle. Take the bike out for 5-10 miles to get it warmed up. Then, turn the a/f screw in 1/2 turn and see if the rpm increase. if so, turn in another 1/2 turn to see if increases again. If it does, turn idle screw out to reduce idle to around 900 rpm.If the idle drops when you turn the a/f screw in, turn it out till the rpm increase. Final adjustment should be midway between where the rpms drop. Personally, I use the DJ kit and after experimenting with numerous jet combinations and needles, have found it gives me the best performance on a 95" build with cam and some headwork. I get 39.5 mpg which isn't great, but not too bad either.
 
  #3  
Old 11-25-2011, 07:29 PM
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I have changed the slide and also am running the sportster needle with no shims. I have not taken out the air screw but I will try that and make sure it is all there. Thanks so much.
 
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:09 PM
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Check the float level before making adjustments to the a/f screw. If you don't have a service manual, the procedure can be found here: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/fuel-...djustment.html You can also search on the forum and google for more info.
 
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:44 PM
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Did you forget to put in the steel needle jet that is held in by the emulsion tube? No spray usually means the jet was left out.
 
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