103 Upgrade Question
#21
12-01-2011 | 06:46 PM
Cruiser
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 133
Likes: 10
From: Houston, Tx
#22
12-03-2011 | 10:10 PM
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 2
From: Maryland
Well, after some deliberation and a 30% discount sale! at the dealer, I decided to go with the CNC ported factory heads (exchange program). They broke the bike down last week for the head exchange. Since, this was an addition to the 103 Stage III or 103 Pro Upgrade, it presently does not include the larger (58MM) throttle body and larger injectors that come with the Stage IV kit. I am assuming from other inquiries that they will not be necessary for my build. Any thoughts?
This is a hell of a lot of money to throw into a motor (for me) and I am seeking input from anyone completing this type of build.
#23
12-04-2011 | 12:08 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,532
Likes: 132
From: SoCal
You are fine. Using the Factory CNC ported heads to complete the stage 3 is a good way to go. You will not be hampering the performance by using your stock tb. Consider adding se auto comp releases and the necessary wiring harness. From the photo it appears that the heads are acr ready. You may not need them with that camset but this is a good time to do it incase you increase the cranking pressure with cam changes and/or a thinner hg, either upon initial assembly or later on. Your tune will be a big factor in your satisfaction of the kit. The canned stage 3 or canned stage 4 map will most likely be lacking in many areas, I know mine was and left me less than satisfied. The guy actually doing the assembly will be the other factor, if he is just a parts changer, look elsewhere.
#24
12-04-2011 | 01:24 PM
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 868
Likes: 1
From: Trenton,N.J.
I have a question about my planned upgrade for my 2012 Street Glide. My dealer is installing the SE Pro 103 Performance Uprade kit which includes the 10.5:1 compression forged pistons, 259E cams, EFI Super Tuner, and perfect fit push rods, performance clutch spring, and high lift valve springs. I am adding the SE heavy breather element and Vance and Hines Power Duals with High Output slip-ons.
I have read several posts regarding the advantages of improving the heads and am considering having the SE Pro Factory CNC Ported heads put on the bike also. With a head exchange program, I can get them for $649.00 install labor included in the above.
My question is...will this be worth the expense in terms of additional performance gains. I don't want to see marginal gains at the expense of reliability.
I know from reading here that there are probably some better head options, but as long as I'm using HD parts and having them installed before the bike is delivered, the upgrades will be covered by the dealership under warranty.
Thanks for the help!
I have read several posts regarding the advantages of improving the heads and am considering having the SE Pro Factory CNC Ported heads put on the bike also. With a head exchange program, I can get them for $649.00 install labor included in the above.
My question is...will this be worth the expense in terms of additional performance gains. I don't want to see marginal gains at the expense of reliability.
I know from reading here that there are probably some better head options, but as long as I'm using HD parts and having them installed before the bike is delivered, the upgrades will be covered by the dealership under warranty.
Thanks for the help!
#26
12-04-2011 | 03:12 PM
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 2
From: Maryland
Thanks everyone for the input. I think I am comfortable with my build options. Now I just need to hope my dealer does the job right! I am told I should have the bike by Christmas. The service manager said I can have "visitation rights" until then. Very funny! Hope the weather is good so I can get some miles on it before it I need to think about storage.
I'll post something back when I have a chance to give it a test drive.
I'll post something back when I have a chance to give it a test drive.
#27
12-24-2011 | 08:18 AM
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 2
From: Maryland
Well, the bike was delivered yesterday. It looks great and sounds good. Unfortunately, the weather was crummy. It was cool and drizzling. It's only suppose to be about 46 today, but I have to get it out and run it a little. I am torn with which way to go with the break in. I've read a lot of the post here with all the different opinions. Talked to the service guy and he stressed the vary your speed but keep it under 50 MPH for the first 500.
#28
12-24-2011 | 12:02 PM
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 837
Likes: 35
From: Northern California
I thought it was keep it under 3500 rpm for the first 500.
What is interesting about how harleys are broken in versus aircraft. On the aircraft, we go up and fly it full throttle for a couple of hours. After that, the engine is run at a higher than normal power setting for about 10 hours, and then it is good to go and the owner can return to normal power settings. On the harleys it is the opposite.
What is interesting about how harleys are broken in versus aircraft. On the aircraft, we go up and fly it full throttle for a couple of hours. After that, the engine is run at a higher than normal power setting for about 10 hours, and then it is good to go and the owner can return to normal power settings. On the harleys it is the opposite.
#30
12-24-2011 | 01:22 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 19
From: Ashland Ohio
Did they tune the bike already? If so the rings are as seated as they ever will be. If not... just ride it like the new bike it is. I would ASSUME the dealer heat cycled it a few times to check out everything and rode it around the block a time or two. Again... rings are about as seated as they ever will be. This is NOT an older car where one has to break in bearings, etc. Once the rings are seated, it's good to go.
Go ride it like the manual says for a new bike (do NOT use cruise for first 500 miles, etc...), change the oil at 500 miles, enjoy your new ride.
Next summer, if you think it doesn't run as expected... swap cams to ones that Scotty suggested.
Make sure you get all the cables, etc from the SEPST. Also get any tune that they installed. If all they did was a download, it would be a noticeable improvement for you to get a tune... whether it be an **** retentive DIYer tune, or a dyno tune, either will be better than a download.
Go ride it like the manual says for a new bike (do NOT use cruise for first 500 miles, etc...), change the oil at 500 miles, enjoy your new ride.
Next summer, if you think it doesn't run as expected... swap cams to ones that Scotty suggested.
Make sure you get all the cables, etc from the SEPST. Also get any tune that they installed. If all they did was a download, it would be a noticeable improvement for you to get a tune... whether it be an **** retentive DIYer tune, or a dyno tune, either will be better than a download.
Last edited by wurk_truk; 12-24-2011 at 01:28 PM.