Hello, I also posted this on another board. I am about to install the Screamin Eagle Cam Plate chain tensioner upgrade on my 2004 Road King. The question I have is in the service manual it states the need to ream the crankshaft bushing after pressing it into the cam plate, is this necessary? The reason I am concerned is it states to use the right half of the crankcase for alignment along with the pilot OR a spare right case. I certainly don't want to split the case to do this nor do I have a spare right side case. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
Thank You
Ken

 

The last cam plate tensioner upgrade I installed came with the pinion bushing in the plate. Are you saying that the cam plate does not come with the bushing?

The reaming would apply if installing a new bushing in an existing cam plate; the bushings are under sized and therefore require reaming. Let us know if the plate comes without the pinion bushing as that would be a new trick from the MoCo. If that is the case, press the pinion bushing out of the cam plate being replaced and press it into the new cam plate; no reaming.

 

I wouldnt put it past HD to not include a required piece in the kit!

 

No, I just assumed I would have to press a new one in because its included with the install kit they tell you you need to purchase for north of $100.00. I have not seen the SE kit yet, the dealer is out of stock, so the bushing very possibly is already installed. I sure hope so.
Thanks for the replies, if the bushing is not included I will post a reply.

 

Not sure since what you have but some of Harley's stuff is TFW type of work when you get this deep. You should be able to get it all ready to go. If not reaming (or honing after a press fit is way above a garage mechanic and should be farmed out. I have been in the machine shop work for 45 years and unless you have proper tools and checking equipment should be left to people setup to do it..

 

Nothing I have read or viewed looked to tough. As far as tools go I have never met one I didn't like.
Thanks though

 

PN 25284-11 is the PN for the SE Hybrid cam plate/tensioner upgrade kit. The kit includes the billet plate, upgraded hydraulic tensioner and oil pump. There is no "installation" kit required that includes the cam plate bushing; the only additional parts are the Spacer Kit (PN25285-08); Cam Service Kit (PN17045-99D) and the Drive Gear Retention Kit (PN25533-99A). You need the spacer kit to set the alignment of the rear cam sprocket with the pinion sprocket. The cam service kit includes the cam cover gasket, push rod tube orings, rocker plate orings, upper rocker gaskets, breather gaskets/flappers/filter media, cam support plate orings, new snap rings for the tensioners and inner cam bearings, The H-D kit is expensive and includes many parts that you don't need and, IIRC< the inner cam bearings in the kit are the INA bearings which you don't want to use anyway. Andrews and S&S both make kits with the Torrington bearings and that would be the way to go. The Drive Gear Retention Kit is just the bolts and flat washers that "retain" the cam and pinion sprocket. You don't need that kit either as the OEM bolts are G8 and are only subject to 25# and 35# and can be reused; have done it many times with no issues. If you believe a G8 bolt subjected to 25#/35# of torque will stretch, then get the kit.

Check page 81 of the SE Performance catalog; note that the cam plate in the 25282-11 upgrade kit for the later models does include the pinion bushing. So, I think it safe to assume that the cam late in the 25284-11 kit also comes with the pinion bushing. Tje catalog is a free download.

 

Thats me, 40 year ago I was holding a cylinder between my legs scrapeing the ridge out with the sharpened edge of a file. Been into so many motors now have lost count. Just roller burnished 4 Toyota 4x4 connecting rod bushing for the son to fit the pins. Motor was knocking bad. Quite like new now.

 

There are many "bushing-less" cam plates on the market including the OE cam plate beginning with the 2011 production. The bore is on size to fit the pinion (crank) shaft.

GFR000 has good advice for obtaining 'proper' fit of the pinion bushing if new one is pressed in.

FWIW: John D at Darkhorse has developed the tooling to 'align-ream' a pinion shaft bushing. IE when cases are prepped (align bored, Timkened etc.), the freshly-bushed camplate is mounted, then the bushing is align reamed to accommodate the dead nuts center of the crank location for that particular set of cases. Plate and cases are now matched. We're talking maybe only a few thou here, and may be over the top for some. But when you're getting your foundation in order (bottom end)...why not. Have done it on "bushing-less" cam plates too... ie bore plate, press bushing, align ream.