Timken Bearing, Crank durability vs HP level?
#11
The general consensus opinion is that the stock crank and bearings should be good to about 120 ft lbs. Some guys will say that's too much power, and others will say you can build beyond that, but as a general statement, keep it under 120 ft lbs and you're relatively safe.
It's doable to hit 100 hp with stock heads and throttle body, but to get beyond that takes a little more work and planning. 90 hp is easy, 100 hp is harder, 110 hp is a bunch harder. It's almost an exponential curve once you start nearing the practical limits of stock equipment.
It's doable to hit 100 hp with stock heads and throttle body, but to get beyond that takes a little more work and planning. 90 hp is easy, 100 hp is harder, 110 hp is a bunch harder. It's almost an exponential curve once you start nearing the practical limits of stock equipment.
#12
#13
#14
#15
There are no unanswered questions on the 120R that I have seen. We haven't had any reports of failures on them, only wide grins at the performance they give.
There is no warranty on those engines because the factory cannot sell an engine that does not comply with all the noise and exhaust emissions regulations. You should buy one now, before they are discontinued!
There is no warranty on those engines because the factory cannot sell an engine that does not comply with all the noise and exhaust emissions regulations. You should buy one now, before they are discontinued!
I am looking real hard at dropping one in my '05 Deuce next year. Anybody want to buy a solid 95" B motor with Big Boyz heads, gear drive TW44G cams, Python 3 2:1, oil cooler, AIM VPC, Mustang Solo seat, SE180 rear tire (getting a little thin in the center), Ness Lo Fly bars, extended forward controls, less than 20K miles, 190psi cranking compression both cylinders, does not use a drop of oil and has never puked oil out the air cleaner (breather vented to the atmosphere), SERT tuned, 104HP/94TQ?
#16
If the crank is true to begin with, I think the OP will be fine as long as he does not beat on the motor. Just not worth the initial capital investment; wait until it breaks and then fix it.
#17
#18
Example;
Before the Timken up-graded kits were available, we built 2, 116" S&S kits.
Not assembled and gone, but optimize compression, and enhanced the cfm in the heads, along with the proper t/body. on the one, and carb mods on the other.
BOTH bike are still in service to date, and the carbed bike rolled 140/140 at R.A.W Motorsports, Swansea Mass.
No issues whatsoever.
Scott
Before the Timken up-graded kits were available, we built 2, 116" S&S kits.
Not assembled and gone, but optimize compression, and enhanced the cfm in the heads, along with the proper t/body. on the one, and carb mods on the other.
BOTH bike are still in service to date, and the carbed bike rolled 140/140 at R.A.W Motorsports, Swansea Mass.
No issues whatsoever.
Scott
#19
Thanks for the feedback all, I appreciate it.
The big reason I don't want to get into the bottom end is down time, I figure I can do the top end in about 2 days and be riding again. Then this winter mebbe I'll pull it down the rest of the way and do a crank.
But for now, Ive decided to go with the fuel moto 107 kit and maybe heads. This'll put me right where I want to be (I already have a HPI throttle body, which I bought for this build when I was looking at a more radical combo )
Im not an abusive rider, I just like tons of roll-on torque (who doesn't ) and with as may motors as Scott has done at this level or higher, and fuel moto as well, Id say IM plenty safe for the rest of the season, at the very least
Thanks Jamie for your help and thanks to Scott for your willingness to share your experience on this board.
The big reason I don't want to get into the bottom end is down time, I figure I can do the top end in about 2 days and be riding again. Then this winter mebbe I'll pull it down the rest of the way and do a crank.
But for now, Ive decided to go with the fuel moto 107 kit and maybe heads. This'll put me right where I want to be (I already have a HPI throttle body, which I bought for this build when I was looking at a more radical combo )
Im not an abusive rider, I just like tons of roll-on torque (who doesn't ) and with as may motors as Scott has done at this level or higher, and fuel moto as well, Id say IM plenty safe for the rest of the season, at the very least
Thanks Jamie for your help and thanks to Scott for your willingness to share your experience on this board.
#20
There are no unanswered questions on the 120R that I have seen. We haven't had any reports of failures on them, only wide grins at the performance they give.
There is no warranty on those engines because the factory cannot sell an engine that does not comply with all the noise and exhaust emissions regulations. You should buy one now, before they are discontinued!
There is no warranty on those engines because the factory cannot sell an engine that does not comply with all the noise and exhaust emissions regulations. You should buy one now, before they are discontinued!