Only making reference to that, as anything larger should be able to push out more.
We have 80" Evo cylinders on the shelf. NIB, and have rebuilt/reconditioned/reworked over 80 sets of cylinder heads this year.
Happy to help get you up on your wheels, with your existing pieces/parts.
Scott

 

Burned "a hole" through the cylinder wall? But yet the aluminum piston is undamaged?

I must have a vision problem because I just can't see that happening. Generally, when you 'burn down' a cylinder there is severe damage to the piston (possibly even a hole in the top), along with some major scoring of the cylinder walls. Melt downs are generally a sign of lean condition (jetted too lean, vacuum leak, etc).

Why do you want to go with stiffer valve springs? Are your cams steep enough that you're getting valve float at high rpm? If you go with stiffer valve springs, you might want to consider beefing up other valve train components (like stiffer push rods).

I have buddy that just bought an 05 wide glide with taller/steeper cams and stiffer valve springs with 25k on it. It's torn down right now because a cam chain (secondary timing chain) broke and caused serious damage. I'm thinking that there must be an aftermarket option if the stock timing chains are that weak.

 

Oh the piston is def out to lunch but I dont think its a lean issue because my plugs look good and Im not seeing any blue on my headers. The motor was torpedo'd before I bought it, so who knows what pre existing issue that cylinder had.

I believe I need to go with stronger springs because of the taller cam and higher compression. I have adjustable S&S push rods on it now.. basically the entire motor was built up except having the heads ported.

 

Higher compression is not a factor when determining whether you need stiffer valve springs. Higher lift alone does not necessarily create a need for stiffer springs if they are not coil binding from the extra lift (lots of 'bolt in' cams work fine with stock valve springs). It is lift and duration combined that determines the steepness of the ramps.

When both the lift and duration are pushed to their limits, it creates steep ramps on the lobes. Steep ramps with stock valve springs can cause backlash and/or floating at high rpm. If you aren't getting any backlash or floating, you will likely get no gain from changing to stiffer valve springs except to add more load/stress to the valve train.

 

I think our issue was more breathing than anything. With the stroker kit and the 10 over bore, I am led to believe that the top end wasnt bringing in enough air and if this motor was overheated before, who really knows about the integrity of the metal of those cylinder walls.. it def sheered through the cylinder wall. my eyes dont lie. I have since then had the heads machined with larger valves and stronger springs but now I am back to my original issue of the head studs pulling from the case. even after it was completely welded and had inserts welded into the case.. I now have to replace the cases and I am just not sure which cases to go with.. HD or S&S..

 

S&S cases, as they are manufactured from 356-T6 aluminum, that has a MUCH higher tensile strength, than OE.
Again, we have those on the shelf, if needed, in raw aluminum finish.
Scott

 

Can I order them with the black wrinkle finish? I just had the cylinders powder coated with a semi gloss..

The bore is 3 5/8 with a stroker crank.. im not sure what flywheel it i but we did have to machine the factory cases.. can you PM me a price for the bare cases? or do I have to buy them with the bearings and everything pressed into it?