Exhaust question
#1
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I have a 2011 FLSTC. I have done a stage one upgrade. SE highflow ac, se super tuner pro, and cycle shack slipons. Just an fyi I am runing hot at 250.
My pipe have blued ( from the stealer dyno ) and the slipons are browning now. I have had 2 dynos the second seems much better but still working with the dyno shop on that. I want to replace the slipons with a complete exhaust system that is louder than stock. but not as loud as the cycle shacks, Also i would like more torque ( Back Pressure? ). I am looking for a good quality exhaust system that does not blu or brown but gets rid of the exhaust/heat well.
Any thoughts?
Thank you
My pipe have blued ( from the stealer dyno ) and the slipons are browning now. I have had 2 dynos the second seems much better but still working with the dyno shop on that. I want to replace the slipons with a complete exhaust system that is louder than stock. but not as loud as the cycle shacks, Also i would like more torque ( Back Pressure? ). I am looking for a good quality exhaust system that does not blu or brown but gets rid of the exhaust/heat well.
Any thoughts?
Thank you
#3
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I have a 2011 FLRTX with the 103 motor and just got done with the stage 1 tuning. I have gotten more torque on the bottom end and more power through out the throttle range. I went with the Vance & Hines Turn down exhaust. Looks great, gives the bike a real low rumble. Its quiet enough when going down the road but will give a good bark when you lay on the throttle. I have known a couple of people that have run Vance and Hines for years with out any discoloring problems. Sounds like you might be running a bit lean if you are blueing so soon.
werff
werff
#4
#5
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I have a 2010 Limited with the 103, HQ 500 cams, SE heavy breather and Supertrapp Supermeg 2-1. I have done similar builds for others as well as a couple of full HQ 107s and SE 103 builds.
None of these run hot and I'll bet the other builders on this site will agree, tuning is the key to getting the engine temps down. The stock pipe with the catalytic converter is good for 20-30 degrees of temp reduction if removed and a good flowing system is installed. Personal experience with the D&D Boss/Fatcat and the Supertrapp Supermeg has been good with no bluing whatsoever on a properly tuned engine.
None of these run hot and I'll bet the other builders on this site will agree, tuning is the key to getting the engine temps down. The stock pipe with the catalytic converter is good for 20-30 degrees of temp reduction if removed and a good flowing system is installed. Personal experience with the D&D Boss/Fatcat and the Supertrapp Supermeg has been good with no bluing whatsoever on a properly tuned engine.
#6
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