I just looked at my cam chain tensionor shoes and they are worn almost half way through. Changing the outer one looks very simple but to get to the inner one I have to remove a bunch of crap I wasn't comfortable with. So I call the dealer to see what they charge. I have a 2001 FLHRI Road King with 45,000 miles on it. Dealer said I have to upgrade to the newer style oil pump when I change the shoes because once that pump has been messed with even if you go by the book putting everything back the pump tends to fail soon after. He said they got burned a few times and refuse to change the shoes without upgrading the pump. Total cost is around $1200! I said I was under the impression that these shoes are a wear item like brake shoes and are designed to be replaced periodically. Dealer said yes, but first have to replace the oil pump. Then after that we can just replace the shoes as needed. I get the feeling I'm getting raped here. Any opinions?

 

I installed gear drive cams 11,000 miles ago and at 92,000 miles now my oil pump seems to work as well as it ever did. So I think your dealer is blowing smoke...

The kit he's pushing on you is a good one however.. The hydraulic tensioners work well and last long, and the new oil pump is better, ( more flow.)

But since you've got one of the "good" motors, ( hot forged crank and a Timken lefty bearing, 99-02,) for that much money I'd install gear drive cams, new lifters and adjustable pushrods like I did.

And I don't plan on opening my cam chest again for years!

 

I would say do some more searching beyond the dealer. I have a 2000 Heritage and back around 12k went to gear driven cams and she still runs great.
I agree with Stiggy - Good luck -

 

BS on needing to have the pump replaced.Not a bad idea to have the new and improved cam plate installed, but not necessary.For $1200 you should get this: cams included plus adjustable push rods, the new cam plate,all the required gaskets and o-rings and a tune if you have a carb.EFI is another story. Call around to some of your local indies or maybe you have another dealer near you. $1200 for the work they're doing is a rip. You may want to think about installing cams since the cam chest is open, depending on your financial situation. If you replace your cams, have the wrench put in B-148 Timken inner cam bearings.

 

Rattlebones,

Take a deep breath! Your bike is an early TC88, which are known to suffer from serious problems with those tensioners. They have been known to wreck engines. Use search for 'tensioners', sit back, read and learn!

What your dealer is proposing to do is the widely accepted upgrade that should cure the problem for all time. The oil pump is part of the module inside the cam chest that also carries the cam-drive chains and tensioners. Changing that module gives you the same oil pump fitted in the TC96 bikes plus hydraulic tensioners, instead of the spring-loaded ones in your bike. It's a no-brainer!

You CAN just replace your current tensioner shoes, but that does not cure the problem - you will have to do it again when the replacements wear. You could also consider fitting a better set of cams while in there, to wake your ride up a bit.

 

The upgrade I think is necessary, or at least a really good move. But the price is rediculous I'd think. Lots of options that give you the better pump with either gears/new chains and tensioners/ or just tensioners. The HD hybrid kit only costs about $400 so assume you get new SE adj. tapered EZ install pushrods and cut out the old ones for $160...they want to charge you something like $640 in labor????

 

You do not have to replace the oil pump; you can replace tensioners only. About $75 for parts and 4 hours of labor. A second set of chain tensioners should last a long time as the chain has been "polished" from the previous miles.

The upgrade is a good one and worth the money if you have the $$ but $1200 for the new cam plate tensioner setup only is ridiculous. You should call BS on the dealer and have him get real or find anothe dealer or better yet, a reputable independent. The job is not beyond a DIY project if you have some tools, can read and are the least bit mechanicall inclined.

For about $700 you can buy the SE Hybrid Roller Conversion kit, plus a set of Andrews cams from Americal Classsic Motors. Most dealers charge 4 hours for a cam change and, in my neck of the woods, dealers shop rate runs from $70-$80/hour. The hybrid kit includes a the billet plate, upgraded oil pump, hydraulic tensioners, outer roller chain and inner Morse (old link) chain. The ACM kit also includes cams, spacers and outer bearings.

Add to that adjustable pushrods for $150-$175 new inner bearings (B148s as someone has suggeste), gaskets and an oil/filter should you change at this time and you are looking at another $250 or so.

I would encourage you to take on the project yourself. You will need the SM for your model and there is plenty of help on this forum should you get stuck along the way.

 

Thanks for the opinions fellas. Looks like this is gonna cost more than I bargained for.

 

Yes on the b148 cam bearings
they are only 10 bucks

 

if you can get to the outer tensioner,the inner isnt that much more..pull the tank,open lifter box,a few bolts to loosen the lifter block,pull the push rods,a few bolts to pull the cam plate..i changed mine last winter on a 01 EGC,used no special tools.parts,gaskets,new inner cam bearings,i had less then $100 into it..i have seen new tensioners on ebay for $20 a set..you can get the inner bearings for a few dollars at any bearing supply store,exact same part# as the screaming eagle performance bearings