I just finished up a cam change on my 07 Dyna. I put in a set of Andrews 48hs .I've done a few cam changes in this bike (203, 204, 255). 203s and 204s came on too late for me. 255s were perfect, but ran too hot, so went with the 48s. I also have the PCV with auto tune, which has worked very well for me.
Went out yesterday for about 2 hours and the bike just doesn't seem up to par with what it should be. The low end and mid range is a dog. Almost felt like it was running too rich. Did a couple of auto tune sessions and it has narrowed down my cells like it is supposed to, and I was getting 44 mpg, but still doesn't feel right. I'm gonna to tear it back down tonight to check cam timing alignment, even though I've been careful about that.
Will sumping cause this?? Most of the posts on sumping stated it affected the top end. I'm very nervous about pulling the crank case bolt. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
All the other cams ran great, with no problems.

Side note: When I pulled the cam cover to change out the cams to the 48hs, 5.5 ozs of oil came out of the cam chest. It seemed like alot, but is cam chest oil and crank case oil related?

 

I had a similar experience when I had andrews 26's installed. Turned out one of the cams was off a tooth on the timing. It was tuned on a dyno and ran smooth but not the power i expected. The mechanic talked to andrews and they confirmed that was likely the issue. It was reset and retuned and all is well now. If I remember right the marks are a little tough to see? Anyway, that's my guess as to what's going on.

 

I'd check the compression f/r cylinder, and if cam timing if off, 30-40 psi difference will be evident, and also pull the case drain plug to measure the amount of carry-over. 4-5 oz. is about right, 8 oz is not "bad", but if more, then it is showing signs of sumping.
Scott

 

I wouldn't be happy with 8oz and would check the fitment of the scavenge port o-ring. I have started an oil drain plug o-ring on the oil pump scavenge port o-ring behind the scavenge port 0-ring; provides just a tad more presure on the scavenge port o-ring fitment in the scavenge port.

When removing the case drain plug, take it easy and if you meet strong resistance, don't foce it; same applies to intalling as guys have cracked cases by being heavy handed. Use a bit of anti sieze and snug it up nice and tight; no strong arm required here. Best removed shortly after riding for an accurate reading and the drain plug is usually easier to remove whe the cases are warm.

 

Thanks everyone for the responses and thanks again Scott.
Pulled the crank case bolt and got apprx 3-4 oz., so that wasn't it. Pulled the cam cover and checked the cam timing. That was good, but didn't look at the cam or crank sprockets before taking them off. Not sure if the bike would run if those were mis-aligned, so I don't know if that was it. I did rotate the crank 360 degrees and then matched back up the alignment marks. Put it all back together and put in new spark plugs and everything is now running good. Good pull right off idle. Not sure what did it. Could have been a bad plug for all I know.
Thanks again.

J.B.

 

So its all good now? Are you happy with the way the 48's and PCV and autotune are working?

 

I just had this happen when I installed cams in my bike. It just didn't feel like gained any power, if anything I lost some. As soon as I pulled the cam cover I noticed the cam/crank timing marks were not aligned properly. Pulled the sprockets and chain reinstalled correctly and was impressed with the results. It fired up easy and ran so I thought it was ok but I was wrong.
Oops


Fixed

 

Bsj04,

Those are great pics thanks for posting...

Update on 48hs: Even after checking the timing I still was having issues with these cams. Poor throttle response. Less low end than expected. The motor ran smooth, still had power and ran cool. I went on a 500 mile trip with them and did a 3rd gear roll on at 30 mph with my buddy with a stage I 1200 Sportster and immediately pulled away from him. The throttle response was just irritating. I would have to turn the throttle about 1/4 to get it to go.
I took them out completely when I got home to double check cam timing and they were aligned correctly, so I put back in the stock cams. I immediately got my throttle response back with what felt like better low end.
I spoke with Jamie and he recomended leaning it up on the low end to 13.8-1 and maybe adding alittle ignition timing in the low rpms and throttle areas.

So I think I'm gonna put them back in and try messing with the afr's. I may get it tuned or at least dyno'd to see where my HP and tq #s are.

 

If you can tell me how to do it, Id be happy to email or pm you the map I got from Jamie but he did load a map keeping in mind that the bike already had a stage1 download before the PCV with AT and Andrews 48's were installed.