I have a 2003 FLHRI Road King. 27,000 miles on stock Tc88 with V&H Big Radius 2+2, Stage 1 intake and powercommander III with Fuelmoto tune. I may want to go 95 kit further down the road but not right now. I ride single 75% of the time with girlfriend riding with the other 25%. Bike has been trouble free since I bought it. The only reason for cam change is the troublesome stock tensioners. Here is what I've asked the quote to include.

(1) 25284-08 Kit, Hydraulic Cam plate $429.99
(1) 25149-00 SE 204 Cam Kit $299.99
(1) 17045-99B Gasket Kit, Cam Service $47.99
(4) 18538-99B Tappet Lifter $29.99
(1) 25285-08 Kit, Cam Spacers $17.99
(1) 24017-10 Kit, Cam Bearing Asy, TC88 $14.99
(1) 25533-99A Cam Drive Gear Retention $6.99
Total Parts Rounded = $940.00

(1) Lot Install Labor Rounded = $500.00
Labor covers the reuse of the stock pushrods.

Approx. $1,400.00 total.

I have read everything this forum has to offer on cams, cam tensioners, cam plates, etc. I have really trusted the expertise of this forum for help on other projects over the years. Everything from grip and switch housings to wiring. I know there might be better cams out there but have dealer money to use and want a reliable ride in the end.

I'm close to biting the bullet on this and have a few questions for the people on here.

1) Is this considered a fair dealer installed price? I don't have a press or way of dealing with the bearings.

2) Can I get by with a map by Fuelmoto or can the price for the dynotune be justified? Dyno tune would cost an additional $350.00.

3) Without cost differences in labor vs equipment, what are the pro's and con's of stock vs adjustable pushrods?

Thanks to everyone in advance.

 

If you can do the work yourself, just take the cams somewhere and let someone press them in for you. Otherwise, it's not a horrible price considering they're going through the rocker boxes. The inner bearings are easy to change. You can rent a puller for free at Autozone, and use an old cam to install them.

You can probably "get by" with a map from fuelmoto, but the dyno tune is well worth it if the tuner is good at what he does.

Adjustable push rods are nice. If you ever need or choose to go back into the cam chest, you don't have to fool with going through the rocker boxes. You can also often adjust them to get rid rid of noises, etc.

If you do it yourself, you could spend the extra money saved and go ahead and do the 95 now too.

 

I'm a little uneasy about the adjustable push rod thing. I have read numberous posts on their adjustment and it just doesn't seem as clear as everyone makes it out to be. I've worked on my own vehicles since I started driving and nothing really is too big with the right tools and clear instructions. Maybe I'm just not getting it.

I've also have read stories about the nuts cracking and breaking on the adjustables. I would think that the solid stockers would be the way to go if I didn't plan on going back into the chest. With the upgrades above I shouldn't have to.

Until I get bit by the 95" bug!

 

Adjusting them is easy. You musta just read some confusing posts. They're really simple to adjust. And there's far more out there without issues than have had issues using them. Either way, it comes down to what you're most comfortable with. It's your time and money after all. I'd still do it yourself if you're willing to, and use the money saved for something else.....

 

Cuda,

Thanks for the responses! By looking at your bike (NICE), you've been down this road and your opinions are appreciated.

I'm looking to see what kind of map I get from Fuelmoto. I may end up taking this project on myself yet! You're right on, I would like to put the money somewhere else.

Problem is it will still end up in the bike!

 

Yeah, I did cams last February. Also did the new cam plate and oil pump, etc, except I went with the andrews kit from Herko and did a full roller chain conversion in mine. Went with Wood6 conversion cams, SE adjustable rods, etc. Ended up doing the 98" kit and head work a few months later.

I didn't have much luck with maps from fuelmoto. When I did the cams, the map was so-so, but wasn't right. When I did the big bore and heads, the map was horrible. They sent me the closest map they said they had, but it wasn't even in the same zipcode for what I needed. I had already booked a dyno session, so it wasn't too big of a deal. But the map was hardly even close enough to break the motor in before the dyno session. Their maps seem to be 'close enough' for most guys with popular combo's, but if you do anything just a little different, they're lacking.

If you're not stuck on using harley parts, you should drop a line to John Wadsworth with Herko. Herko@insightbb.com He sells an all inclusive cam kit for a good price. You could do the full roller conversion kit like I did, and use Andrews cams, and come out cheaper than what you have listed above. You also wouldn't have to worry about having the cams pressed on because the conversion cams aren't pressed in. It would save you a little bit more cash, and you'd have a better set-up. Hell, shoot me your email address in a PM, and I'll forward you some stuff he sent me when I did my cam stuff last year. It'll give you something to consider.......

 

How would the Tw6-6 compare to the 204's? I'm going with 204's because I have heard good reviews about them and their idle and I could cover them with dealer money.

 

I can't comment on the 204's as I haven't run them. I've heard they sound decent at idle, but I don't ride at idle ;-). Your riding style should dictate your selection. The TW6's fit me fairly well, but I don't lug around at low rpm's like a lot of guys like to do. The 6's don't really come on until almost 3k, then they pull like hell. I cruise around 3k, so they're right at the beginning of the sweet spot for me.

 

Just did the same thing to my 05 Road King last week. Had $835.00 invested including a couple of tools I needed. It was not that bad to do. Auto Zone puller worked great. Shop around for the parts, ebay some HD dealers give 20% discount on online orders. Get the HD shop manual for your bike if you don't already have one. Did the oven freezer method for the cam plate bearings and it worked perfect.