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ANOTHER cam chain tensioner question

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Old 03-07-2011 | 04:17 PM
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THE rickybobby
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Default ANOTHER cam chain tensioner question

Seems like the screamin eagle hydraulic tensioner upgrade is the best option for my 01 rk classic. I have read that the shoes last a lot longer since the tension on them is varied based on oil pressure. I understand that part but i've also read that the shoes are easier/cheaper to service... anybody know why??
 
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Old 03-07-2011 | 05:53 PM
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priceamp
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Originally Posted by THE rickybobby
Seems like the screamin eagle hydraulic tensioner upgrade is the best option for my 01 rk classic. I have read that the shoes last a lot longer since the tension on them is varied based on oil pressure. I understand that part but i've also read that the shoes are easier/cheaper to service... anybody know why??
I don’t think it would easier/cheaper to replace the hydraulic tensioners compared to the spring loaded tensioners. In both cases you have to remove the cam plate in order to replace the inner cam tensioner. So the labor is the same in either case. The cost of the hydraulic tensioners might be a tad cheaper than the spring loaded tensioner, but the cost of the tensioners is insignificant compared to the cost of labor.
 
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Old 03-07-2011 | 06:22 PM
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THE rickybobby
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Yeah thats what i'm thinkin... the kit comes w/a higher volume oil pump, 1 new (and apparently different) chain, the shoes and an "improved cam plate" I gather that the "improved" has something to do with the bearings (brass is somehow involved) but I wonder if it might be designed to allow access to that rear shoe w/o removing the plate. especially considering the lack of pressure on the shoe when the engine is not running... i looked at the installation instruction pdf @ hd.com and can't tell.
 
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Old 03-07-2011 | 07:25 PM
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priceamp
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Originally Posted by THE rickybobby
Yeah thats what i'm thinkin... the kit comes w/a higher volume oil pump, 1 new (and apparently different) chain, the shoes and an "improved cam plate" I gather that the "improved" has something to do with the bearings (brass is somehow involved) but I wonder if it might be designed to allow access to that rear shoe w/o removing the plate. especially considering the lack of pressure on the shoe when the engine is not running... i looked at the installation instruction pdf @ hd.com and can't tell.
I’m more than positive you still have to remove the SE hybrid cam plate to replace the inner chain tensioner. I have my motor apart right now and I can assure you there’s no way you can replace the inner chain tensioner without removing the plate.

For the SE hybrid cam plate, the outer/primary or rear cylinder cam silent chain is replaced with the newer roller chain. For the inner/secondary or front cylinder cam chain, th kit assumes you will still use your existing silent chain or replace it with a new silent chain if worn. However for your ’01 RK, HD’s description for the hybrid cam plate says for ’99-’01, you’ll use the original equipment for both chains.

For the ’99-’06 SE hybrid cam plate, the improvement I believe their referring to is that it is a precision cam plate made from billet, ie stonger for SE racing. If you’ve ever seen a stock cam plate, it’s far from precision. For the SE cam plate from ’07-now, they use brass bushings. For ’99-’06, they still use bearings.

Do a HDForum site search for hybrid cam plate, you’ll find tons of info.
 
  #5  
Old 03-08-2011 | 09:11 AM
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The reason it is easier to replace the shoes is that, with the hydraulic system, when the motor is not running, there is no oil pressure--and thus, no tension on the cam chain ....

With the stock spring tensioners, you need an unloader tool to relieve the pressure on the cam chain in order to replace the shoes ... In my view a relatively minor amount of time and/or labor saving ... but, it also obviates the necessity of having a special tool ....
 
  #6  
Old 03-08-2011 | 10:42 AM
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I would try to find a system, if available, that includes changine the inner chain also to single roller.
I don't really think the bearing material or even the cam plate material is too important. What's there is strong enough.

I like the idea and it is a nice looking item and will not hurt anything, but---

I have had my cam plate off for cam changing, oil pressure spring changing, inner bearing changing (I do one thing at a time for some reason it seems), AND I have seen NO wear on the cam plate self material bearing area.

It's a plain bearing that has to have oil pressure and good oil. No metal to metal allowed.

You loose oil pressure here and it doesn't make any different what the bearing material is, it's gone, baby.

and I run a TW 400-6 Woods cam. 08 Fatboy.

Biesley spring and Amsoil 20-50 in the Winter and Redline 20-60 in the Summer.
 

Last edited by Old Gunny; 03-08-2011 at 10:46 AM.
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