I've managed 55K on this engine and i started to dig into the cam box today. i am still laied up from a brain tumor surgery so i cannot ride for a few more weeks so i decied best time to get some wrench turning in. been looking at a lot of threads on this TC88 cam thing and am going inti it myself. Might need shop (dealer) to help me with pressing a couple bearins and new cams into the cam plat e, but it is ony an hour of thier time i am pay for that way. Love to do my own work and i will know what i have by wrenching it my self. got the tank, rockers and push rods out this evening and i'll dig into the cam plate tomorrow. Need a couple special tools first. Here is what i am going to be putting into this engine:

Air cleaner assy 29441-99A
SE 203 Cam kit 25937-99B
SE Tappets 18572-07
Hydraulic Cam Chain 25284-08
Tensioner Plate Upgrade Kit

Inner Cam Bearings 24017-10
Plug wires 31932-99B
Dobeck TFI tuner FI-1040ST

In all the parts have run 1175.00 and i just need a few gaskets. Let me know if you think i have missed anything that should be done while i am at it.

 

I have a '99 TC also. Please post how it turns out. I need to do the same thing.

 

Had to take care of things at my parents place today and did not get to work on bike. i have only removed exterior parts so far and plan on taking a lot of pic's one into tearing engine parts out.

 

1. Service Manual
Assume you have it but if you don't get it.

2.Heads
You did not mentiion any head work. With 55K miles it would be a good idea to freshen them up with cleanup, new guide seals and a multi angle valve job. If you have the extra $$, having combustion chambers ccd and balanced, if necessary and perhaps shaving enough off to set chamber volume at 82ccs would help the 203 cams; they like a little more compression than stock. Use a .030" Cometic MLS head gasket on reassembly as well. If you do this, you will need to replace your stock pushrods with the HD Perfect Fit or adjustables.

3. Special Tools
I don't recognize the inner cam bearing PN but if they are Torrington B148s, you are good to go. You will need a blind hole puller available from Auto Zone to remove the old bearings and, if done carefully, the new inner bearings can be installed using the old cams to "tap" them into place.

You may be able to get by without going to the dealer for pressing bearings on/off and cams into cam plate. You can also rent/borrow from Auto Zone, a split bearing puller attachment that when fitted behind the outer cam bearings and supported on both sides shoud allow you to "tap" the cams right out of the bearings. Most are not that tight. Usually, the cams/bearings will also come out of the cam plate pretty easy as well, just a tap or two with a rubber mallet and the fall aout. As for reassembly, the "freezer/oven" method is fool proof and works every time.

Not a necessity but you might want to invest in a set of oil pump alignment pins; available from George's Garage for about $18. Or you can follow the service manual procedure and rotate the crank (rear wheel with trans in 5th) and gradually tighten the oil pump fasteners. The pump will self align while the crank is rotating.

Ft.Lb. and In.Lb. torque wrenches.

Assembly or cam lube.

4. Orings
You will need new orings that seal the oil passages at the dowel at the lower left side of the cam chest. You will also need a new oring at the scavenge port where the scavenge neck of the oil pump fits into the scavenge port. You will also need cylinder base orings. If you use Cometic MLS head gaskets, you will not need the orings that seal the oil return passages between the cylindre and head.

5. Valve Lifters
If using OEM lifters, suggest the 18538-99B lifter. Although there have been some quality issues with OEM lifters of late. If you have some extra cash, consider the Johnson Hydro Lift or HW Black Ops lifters; a little more money but will result in a quieter valve train.

6. Pushrods
If you decide to go with adjustables, PN 18404-08 is the OEM kit with SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods, orings, tubes and clips. If you take .030" off the heads and use a .030" head gasket, the -060" OEM Perfect Fits will work and will save $$

7. Fuel Management
I know Dobeck suggests that their TFI tuner will accomodate "mild cams", whatever that means. However, you can only add or take away fuel with that hardware; you cannot adjust timing. With any cam upgrade, the ability to adjust timing is important. If you have the option, consider going with a Daytona TwinTec adjustable ignition.

8. Exhaust
Not mentioned in your OP. If you are like most bagger guys, you won't want to go to a 2:! pipe but will want to retain the dual look. The head pipe works pretty well, you just need a good set of slipons like Cycle Shack or Rush to open up the exhaust a bit; let her breath.

Those are my comments/suggestions for your consideration.

 

I'm not a big fan of the 203 cam. I think an Andrews 21 for a bagger or the 26 for everything else. I would also bite the bullet now and put in gear drive cams. Your old 99 will have a good crank in it. Check runout anyway and if it's under .003" then it will work. It might seem expensive now but you'll never have to go back in there and change any tensioners or worry about chain stretch putting you out of time. It's just peace of mind. As mentioned above, have your heads cc'd and a valve job. Go back with some spring loaded Viton valve guide seals and even some bee hive springs. They get rid of a lot of noise. If you have the valves out then have the shop get rid of the shelf under the valve seats or better yet a mild porting to match the cam. This all depends on your budget so you'll have to figure out what's more important to you. Have fun!

 

I think I read somewhere that the hydraulic tensioners are available with rollers (I guess instead of shoes?) Anybody familiar with these? sure seems like a great idea...although i guess the bearing in the rollers could be a possible fail point.

 

djl
Great post! I've been reading everything I can about this cam mess. I have an 05 Heritage with 31K. Inspected the pads and they have almost no wear, but some voids showing. Since I'm satisfied with my stock performance and have EFI I've decided against any cam upgrades, partially due to my tight wallet. Currently planning on the HD Tensioner Upgrade and pulling the rocker assemblies so I can stay with original push rods. Bolt cutters and adjustables just don't inspire me. Thanks again.

 

if you are going to reuse your push rods, make sure you keep track of which one goes where, they are different lengths.
I am going to jump in the same project in a couple of weeks, but adding a 95 kit. I will be using a ThunderMax for fuel management.

 

I have trouble concentrating on your posts with that avatar thing going on :-)

 

Those dancing girls are distracting aren't they? DjL, thanks for all the great info. Bugit is kind of tight and was not planning on going into the heads right now. I have good balanced compression between cylinders (checked prior to tear down-duh) and the bike has been running great. just getting noisey and i have a significant amount of tension shoe wear. I am not using the Dobeck kit as i just purchased a USB tuner from another forum member. Can't wait to give her a little more go. My Ultra always has been a little weak on accelerating at higher RPM's but has real good low end torque for taking off with the trailer. I am still going with teh 203 cams as I don't want to have to do a lot of playing with teh tune to make it right. As far as the exhaust i am running a set of stock OEM mufflers that have had the tail cone machined out and prior to upgrading the intake she started to run a little lean after i put the pipes on. They are not really loud until I lay the throttle on hard and as lower RPM's it almost has the lope of an old two culinder John Deere tractor. It is unique and I like it.

I am currently taking caree of my parents as my Dad is terminal with bone marrow cancer in its final stages of taking his life, so the bike is on hold for a while coverd and sealed to keep out the dirt. I thank all of your for your input and I hope i have helped a few get answers fron this thread as well. I will bring this line back up as sooon as I get to dive back into the machine. In the mean time ya'll keep the shiney side up and ride hard!