For those of you that have done it did way. After you did the 30-60 10x were you done and you just rode normal after that or did you do anything else. I finished my top end alittle while ago and finally got the tires and other stuff back together and the weather might be clear this weekend Im going to try and get to ride it finally.

 

I have done it a couple of times on new machines and never had any issues.

 

Mototune, or something similar works. Get a couple of short heat cycles on first just to introduce the new parts to one another. Then, warm the engine up until you can feel some heat from the rear cylinder and take off. Do the mototune thing and when done, the rings should be seated. Ride normal after that but keep the rpms under 3500 for the first couple of hundred miles, then under 4000 for a couple of hundred miles and then ride normally. Change oil after the first 100 miles; change oil and filter after 500 miles and then at whatever your regular interval is. Do not break in on synthetic; Shell Rotella 15W30 is a great break in oil but any convetional oil will work fine.

At 500 miles run a compression check to see if the rings/cylinders are sealing. It is good data to have in the future.

 

After the Mototune break-in, I changed oil/filter & then rode normal from there...

 

Had mine broken in on dyno which is similar to mototune method. Several accel & decel runs to seat the rings. After the tune I rode it like I stole it. No problems.

 

When I saw the mototune guys picture on his website...I decided to follow the recommendations in my owners manual. I guess I just figured since Harley Davidson has been designing and building MC engines for more than a century they probably know how to best break them in.

 

Exactly.

I broke mine in by the HD guidelines. I did change the oil/filter at 100 miles, then again at 500. Switched to synth at 5,000 miles. I've got 112,000 trouble free miles on it now, still running great. I think HD probably knows what they are doing.

 

Phuk that Mototune bull crap.

Meant to make it easier on the shop, screw the bike owner.
Who cares if he lost power due to micro-welded rings?
Dumb customer will never know the difference.

Google micro welded rings.


If you consider the cost involved with playing it safe (an extra trip to the tuner after proper break-in), there is nothing to lose by playing it safe.

Nothing to gain by rushing the break-in. You worked hard on the build, why risk anything? It just don't make sense!




.

 

When you take delivery of a new bike, the engine has been "run-in" at the factory. All it takes to seat the rings is heat and pressure; they should seat in the first 50 miles easy. The Mototune break in is intended more for new builds that have no factory "break-in". I have done the heat cycling BS, so many rpms for the first 100 miles, so many rpms for the next 400 mile and so many rpms for the next 600 miles and have had more problems with that process than the Mototune process; it works.

 

What kind of problems? I had 204/206ccp after break in, and still measures the same after over 10k miles.

You had to have done something wrong, for a sane breakin to have problems.

Keep in mind, micro welded rings will not raise some sort of red flag to alert you to the issue. You will be scratching your head wondering where those few missing ponies are that you had hoped for and expected.
People blame it on the dyno, they blame it on bad luck, but no one seems to put a magnifying glass to the rings and look for specks of aluminum from a hot breakin.

Moto tune saves time, that's all it does. (as all shortcuts do).
It's a friggin' short cut, at the end of all your hard building efforts.
A little more patience, and the risk is avoided.
"No, I can't wait to ride my build,.....!" LOL