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need help picking a cam

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  #11  
Old 11-15-2010, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by bdyson250r
well did some lookin around and found some heads done by baisley they have 83.8cc chambers 175# springs so im gonna run a se 258 cam so i can save a few bucks not going with the gears gonna end up with 189 pounds of cranking compression
Call Dan,to see if those heads will work with those pistons to get the desired compression.You can run 11.4 comp if it is set up right, & you have good pump gas.I'm running 11.2 comp.210CCP front / 212CCP rear.My bike will start hot without the comp releases,with no problem.Don't just put anything together, it will cost you big bucks to fix if its not right, & you will not be happy.Save your money,& get your stock heads done.Dan can configure them to anything you want(ask me how I know,lol!!).Then all you need is cylinders & matching pistons.Axtell has you covered there(ask me how i know again,lol).Then decide what cam you want to run based on what you want hp?tq? or midrange? & the kind of riding you do?? I would run a midrange cam because it the best of both worlds,& it's where you do most of your riding on the street!!! Good luck with the build!!!
 
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:57 AM
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The SE 258 cam has a decent intake close(midrange cam) for a bagger,but you need some comp to make it work.10.5 would be a little light for a 52 close.10.8 might be a little better with a good tune,but you could run about what i run.Ask Dan what he would recommend.The cam doesnt have much lift either.Better cams to be had on the market.I run the T-man 662-2 on my bike at 11.2.
 
  #13  
Old 11-15-2010, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bdyson250r
when i first started collecting parts i was going to build a motor that was on screamin eagles pdf file it was a 95 forged hc piston performance heads 10.5-1 comp. with there se 257 cam after getting everything but the cams i decided to go with gear drive cams but i dont want to get the wrong ones and have a ping monster with all that comp. and just pump gas
Gear drives are good,because they make everything more precise,but they are not needed.especially with the newer chain set ups they have!!!
 
  #14  
Old 11-15-2010, 12:13 PM
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Can't disagree with arealinvestor's coments as they apply to a build similar to his but would advise against the compression ratios he is talking about for a build like yours. His frame of reference is a 124" displacement engine that has a trued, balanced and welded crank. Your build is a typical 95" build with a weak bottom end by comparison. If you are planning on sending your crank/wheels out for truing and welding, you haven't mentioned it.

The Baisley heads with a .030" head gasket and the HC pistons will put your static CR at 10.4, corrected CR at 9.0 and cranking compression at 184psi. You could take a .010" cut from those heads which will reduce chamber volume to 82.4cc and the CR figures would change to static = 10.5, corrected to 9.1 and cranking to 188psi which is a good target for a street build, plus, from what I understand the SE258 needs some compression to perform; I have never run one so I can't speak from personal experience. Anway, either case you should mock up the top end and clay the heads for valve to piston clearance.

I still prefer flat top pistons to control squish and to mitigate against detonation and because they are cast and not forged. The CR targets to shoot for would be to keep corrected CR under 9.3 and cranking CR close to 190psi. Don't worry to much about static, it will be what it will be when the other two CR factors are met. You may not NEED compression releases but they are cheap and I would install them and use them all the time; they will extend starter and battery life.

If the Baisley heads do not have singh grooves, have then grooved. It's not magic, you could to it yourself.

I do agree with investor that you coudl make a better cam choice; there are so many better choices than the SE258, like the SnS 570 you referenced in your OP. The only problem with that cam is that you must convert you cam drive to gears. I would choose another cam and save that money; it's just not necessary. But, that's JMHO.

You could save some $$ by just having a BigBoyz "street" port job done on your heads, have them decked for the target CR figures set out above for the Andrews 37 cams, have the heads grooved and you would see 100/100 numbers with a fat mid range and a very rideable bike.
 

Last edited by djl; 11-15-2010 at 01:50 PM.
  #15  
Old 11-15-2010, 12:42 PM
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I agree DJ.depending on how detailed the build is going to be, the crank will need to be addressed!!!
 
  #16  
Old 11-15-2010, 06:12 PM
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I know op's is an '06 but this is my stuff run good or bust til next winter?

16952-08
cometic 0.03
cast flat tops
TD

and the cam I picked is the 259e

Any comments please!


notes;clay engine and watch valve reliefs and all othere clearances...ect.
 
  #17  
Old 11-15-2010, 07:32 PM
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just got off the phone with dan he got me all set up gonna run his heads with an andrews 55g cam and see how it does
 
  #18  
Old 11-16-2010, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by voodoodrug
I know op's is an '06 but this is my stuff run good or bust til next winter?

16952-08
cometic 0.03
cast flat tops
TD

and the cam I picked is the 259e

Any comments please!


notes;clay engine and watch valve reliefs and all othere clearances...ect.
Groove the heads and look at other cams if you are not stuck with the 259E; it's not that bad but there are others worth consideration. The SnS570 would work well but that would mean gear drives. Andrews 54 is similar in profile and chain drive.
 
  #19  
Old 11-16-2010, 11:14 PM
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Squash groves?, im nervouis as hell about cuttin into the heads! It seems like its not an exact sience either,just put a couple lateral matching slots were the heads meet the cylenders? should the grove also go through the head gasket? scarey stuff.

I will look into those cams though djl thank you!
 
  #20  
Old 11-17-2010, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by voodoodrug
Squash groves?, im nervouis as hell about cuttin into the heads! It seems like its not an exact sience either,just put a couple lateral matching slots were the heads meet the cylenders? should the grove also go through the head gasket? scarey stuff. I will look into those cams though djl thank you!

Not scary at all, very simple stuff. The groove does not go through the head gasket; see photos. You could dremel the grooves in or use a triangular file; not rocket science, or you can pay a head porter to do the same thing. The grooves are detonation killers which we need to run some compression with the chitty fuel we have to use now. Check the link for more information; read and learn.

http://somender-singh.com/content/view/7/31/
 
Attached Thumbnails need help picking a cam-sqush-grooves.jpg   need help picking a cam-squish-grooves.2.jpg  

Last edited by djl; 11-17-2010 at 12:23 PM.


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