I knew he had new jam nuts. I have been looking for some that are the same size as the nuts that come with the puhsrod kit, otherwise you need two different wrench sizes to adjust. Not a bid deal but being **** retentive, that is my preference.

You can set your pushrods whereever you want, I prefer to have as much travel remaining in the lifter as possible and maintain zero lash but, like I said, I am a bit ****.

Forget about the length of the rocker arm; adjust the pushrod to whatever position you want and go.

 

you only need 1/2" wrench to adjust The 9/16" nuts are machined down to 1/2" they work very well. I am **** too and use travel limiters on high ccp builds and as long as you have a cushion that is all that matters. Using travel limiters a couple flats off bottomed out is just right. Curios why you want as much travel as possible just leaves more room to bleed down.

 

Yes , they could be. I was referring to the wrench size; they very well may be 1/2" across. According to mtclassic, the thread pitch is 24; I can't recall but will take his word for it until I can confirm. If that is the case, there is no need for machined nuts, you can buy 5/16" x 24, which, I believe is the same as the OEM nuts. I can't recall the gyrations I have been through to find some adjustors the same wrench size as the OEMs but I couldn't find any. Maybe I had my head up my *** when looking last time; it wouldn't be the first time; I wil revisit.

I actually like the SE tapered units; just don't trust the adjustor nuts. I am not the only one that has had problems. If you drop an exhaust pushrod out in the middle of bumfrak, you will understand. Good luck with yours.

 

Just checked. Wrench size is 1/2"

 

Yeah, you are right on the nut size; my memory was foggy and it has been a while. A member on another forum sent me four machined nuts as you describe. He does them himself; I just dug them out and they should work well. I might even give the SE tapered units another try. I have been using Smith Brothers since I had problems with the SE units.

Varying opinions on travel limiters. Novices have trouble finding the bottom on a lifter. It's not like the bottom is a dead bottom. You can hit bottom, keep turning and start to open the valve, so I tend not to recommend the "adjust up from the bottom" approach on forums.

A lifter that is operating properly should not bleed down. I tend to follow manufacturer's recommended settings and I haven't run across any that recommend travel limiters yet so I stick to the instruction plus a turn or two.

No high CCP builds for me; 185-190 is my comfort zone.