Any thoughts on doing a 107" kit on a stock 88". 4.125 bore with the stock 4.000" stroke. Don't have to replace crank and bore case. What does i believe a over bore engine ( think i got it right) get you, advantages, dissadvantages... going on a 99 road king some two up riding and solo bar hopping.

 

You're correct, you don't have to replace the crank. But you do have to bore cases. I've seen good dyno sheets from those set-ups, but I don't have any 1st hand experience with them.

 

These short stroke engines work very well with decent head work and compression, no down side, I like the quick torque of the high velocity heads with this combo.

 

your motor needs to come out to get anything past 98" (WE ALL HAVE OUR OWN OPINIONS ON THAT ONE NOW DON'T WE)

Just go with the 95" build some good head work a nice cam. Run this until the motor really needs to be pulled or your bored with the 95" Trust me when I tell you that some of the most efficiant naturally aspirated Harley motors make 1.2-1.3 hp per cubic inch. that's 3 CI from 95 to 98"..... tops 4-6 HP over the same build of a 95"

If you pull the short block many things need to be done while its apart, Crank trued and welded, Balanced, case boring, Timkin bearing are just the minimum that needs to done while the motor is apart.
I'm a firm believer if your going to stroke it, stroke it BIG as stroker cranks cost just about the same whether it's a 1/8" stroke or a 1/2" stroke. Go big or go home.

 

A 107" with a 4" arm, has to have the heads running real good, in order to get those to turn on.
Again, the cases need to be bored, and actually by rights, the crank should be balanced to those 1052(+ or -) gram, total piston weight.
Just completed one for a client in Ann Arbor, Mich, and changed out a belt drive to chain, on a 107"/Wood 400G combo for one of our clients that lives in Hanover PA, yesterday.
He drove up, we completed that, with a Wood lifter install and some gaskets, after 26,000 miles, and went home the same day.
Have witnessed them go 115/125 with a Wood 8, here.
Scott

 

Been there, done that but I tend to agree with BadBagger08. Much cheaper to build a 95" and you can build a good runner without the additional cost of new cylinders and pistons, case boring and crank T/B/W. You already have the Timken, so you don't need that work but you are looking at $2500 in addtional cost for a 107". You can build a nice running 95" for $2500. You're money, your bike, your decision but I would think about it a bit before taking the leap.

If you decide to take the 107" leap, look at "packages", i.e., pistons, cylinders, cams and heads with proven results; avoid the "a la carte" approach.

 

Hd does not install Timkens bearings at the factory. the only way is to have a Indy do the machine work and the install 4 you.

Not even the SE 120R crate motor comes with Timkens just a up graded bearing.

 

He's got a 99 motor they came with Timkens until 02

 

I do agree.
A 95", or a 98", set up correctly, is a great hp/dollar value, and when tuned correctly can show the tail light to those that have larger displacement bikes.
Scott

 

I can contest to that, my 95ci I just got back from hillside with stage II heads, bored tb,andrews 37,and a fatcat runs pretty stout, and i still have to dyno it. looking forward to getting those numbers for you scott, thanks everyone at hillside