2001 Road King exhaust questions
#1
2001 Road King exhaust questions
I am looking to upgrade the stock exhaust on my 2001 FLHRCI. From reading several posts and searching the web I decided I would try this myself. I do have a few questions though if someone wouldn't mind helping me out...
I am thinking about going with 33" fishtails and I guess I will be needing a crossover kit? Does this come with most setups or something I would buy separately?
I am not really looking for loud pipes but maybe something a little louder and throatier then the stock pipes that are on it. Any suggestions on what to look for?
Also, would I need to upgrade the stock breather with new pipes? I am assuming I would need to buy a tuning kit as well when I get the new pipes.
Any help would be appreciated.
I am thinking about going with 33" fishtails and I guess I will be needing a crossover kit? Does this come with most setups or something I would buy separately?
I am not really looking for loud pipes but maybe something a little louder and throatier then the stock pipes that are on it. Any suggestions on what to look for?
Also, would I need to upgrade the stock breather with new pipes? I am assuming I would need to buy a tuning kit as well when I get the new pipes.
Any help would be appreciated.
#3
Most of us go for 'slip-ons" which is just changing the mufflers.
you stay with the stock factory header pipes, all the way to just under and in front of your saddlebags. The new mufflers, just "slip-on".
Remove the saddlebags, loosen the nut on the "torco clamp" which mounts the front of the muffler, you LOOSEN the 2 bolts mounting muffler, and work the muffler loose, twisting slightly and pulling to the rear.
Try to avoid pulling and stressing the header pipe- a second person can help to steady the header ahead of the muffler.
Once loose, remove the 2 bolts and pull the old muffler off.
The new muffler goes on with no sealant, just slide it on.
Sug up the torco clamp after the 2 mounting bolts, make sure that the pipes are extending to the rear equally and hanging straight ( so it looks nice)
the stock header pipes are just fine for performance.
Some change to "True Duals" which will about double the cost.
This has a complete system for each cylinder- there is no performance advantage.
Sound is completely subjective.
MANY pipes sound like crap, tinny and annoying, esp to anyone riding behind. ( which is why my Pal Ricky always has to ride last)
"Drag Pipes" have no baffles and usually retain the same diameter 1.75" or 2" through their run. These pipes are great for drag racing when your motor is turning at 8000 rpm. They offer greatly reduced torque because of no back pressure.
Bikes with drag pipes will sometimes be heard struggling to get going on freeway ramps.
I would suggest that you go to a bike nite or where the bikes are to hear pipes that you like the sound of- and those you don't.
My personal choice is Supertrapp Supermegs ( retail about $600- you can find cheaper).
These are tunable with a disc baffle system, hi flow with out being overly loud. Higher frequencies are dampened more than low frequencies, enhancing a low rumble tone.
With free-er flowing pipes and air cleaner, you will want to get retuned. The bike will run better and last longer when tuned correctly.
Mike
you stay with the stock factory header pipes, all the way to just under and in front of your saddlebags. The new mufflers, just "slip-on".
Remove the saddlebags, loosen the nut on the "torco clamp" which mounts the front of the muffler, you LOOSEN the 2 bolts mounting muffler, and work the muffler loose, twisting slightly and pulling to the rear.
Try to avoid pulling and stressing the header pipe- a second person can help to steady the header ahead of the muffler.
Once loose, remove the 2 bolts and pull the old muffler off.
The new muffler goes on with no sealant, just slide it on.
Sug up the torco clamp after the 2 mounting bolts, make sure that the pipes are extending to the rear equally and hanging straight ( so it looks nice)
the stock header pipes are just fine for performance.
Some change to "True Duals" which will about double the cost.
This has a complete system for each cylinder- there is no performance advantage.
Sound is completely subjective.
MANY pipes sound like crap, tinny and annoying, esp to anyone riding behind. ( which is why my Pal Ricky always has to ride last)
"Drag Pipes" have no baffles and usually retain the same diameter 1.75" or 2" through their run. These pipes are great for drag racing when your motor is turning at 8000 rpm. They offer greatly reduced torque because of no back pressure.
Bikes with drag pipes will sometimes be heard struggling to get going on freeway ramps.
I would suggest that you go to a bike nite or where the bikes are to hear pipes that you like the sound of- and those you don't.
My personal choice is Supertrapp Supermegs ( retail about $600- you can find cheaper).
These are tunable with a disc baffle system, hi flow with out being overly loud. Higher frequencies are dampened more than low frequencies, enhancing a low rumble tone.
With free-er flowing pipes and air cleaner, you will want to get retuned. The bike will run better and last longer when tuned correctly.
Mike
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