I have a few questions regardin the tensioners & the replacement of them.
1. At what milage should the tension shoes be inspected / changed?
2. If you opt to change out the chain drive for a set of gear drives do you need to take the rocker box covers or heads off to replace the cams?
3. If you are just changing the tensioners for new ones do you need to take anything apart on the top end?


Thanks in advance of your replies.

 

1, We recommend changing them at 30,000 miles. And changing the lifters at the same time.

2, You do not need to remove any of the top end to change out the cams to gears but it would require using bolt cutters and cutting out the pushrods. Then replacing the pushrods with quick install type adjustable.

3, Same answer as #2

FWIW, Even if you change out the cams for gear cams, you should still go in there and replace the lifters every 30,000 miles. It's good preventive maintenance.

 

1.) There is no set mileage for checking them. I have a buddy that recently pulled a set out of a bike with 20k on it that were worn out. I'd go no more than 25k without having a look.

2.) You do not have to take off the heads. You have to take off the rocker boxes unless you decide to use adjustable pushrods. If you use adjustables, you will have to cut the stock pushrods with bolt cutters.

3.) If you are just changing the shoes, you do not have to take off the top end, except for dealing with the pushrods as in #2.

 

It's a good practice to start to check them at around 25K miles. Some tensioners go long miles and others wear out prematurely with low miles.

You do not need to open up the top end to change cams. You cut the pushrods out with bolt cutters and then use a set of adjustable pushrods to replace them. MAKE SURE that you know the proper way to adjust the pushrods as you can bend a valve if you don't let each one(lifter) bleed down before moving to the adjustment of the next one.

Nothing comes apart on the top end to replace tensioners, just the bottom end ie, oil pump etc. Change to the new bearings (Torrington)while you are in there if it has the INA type..

Woops, slow typer here

 

EXCELLENT POINT. I forgot to mention, whenever removing the cams for the first time, change the inner cam bearings to Torrington bearings. Get rid of the INA's ASAP.

 

Why would the lifters need to be changed at 30,000 miles?

Thanks

 

I wondered that two, since they are basically Chevy small block lifters. People don't generally swap 'em in there cars every 30k.

 

Preventive maintenance, especially with any performance cam. Seen many failures in the 40,000 to 50,000 miles range. If you wait until one fails then you'll be replacing the cams too. Just more money if you want to wait. Some last 50, 60, 70,000+ miles and some don't. The way we see it is when you're in there replacing tensioners, why not? It is the same reason to replace the INA bearings with Torringtons. The INA's can last 30K no problem. Some last 40k, 50k and more. But if it goes, you lose cams and possibly the engine cases. Not to mention the little hardened steel rollers that circulate through the engine doing damage.

I hear lots about the Chevy lifters being the same but I wouldn't bet on it. There are tappers, bleed holes and other subtle differences. For minimal cost difference and assured part fitment, I would only use HD lifters, JMO.

 

I used Crane 10530 lifters for a Chevy in mine. A call to Crane confirmed that the lifters they sell for a Chevy and an HD are the exact same lifter with a different part number.

 

i had an se 211 cam installed today at american eagle hd cam tensioners looked almost brand new about 10 % ware on them 2001 flstc 28k on it but since we were in there anyway went ahead & replaced them also found the man playing the spoons in the tin can (ratteling) it was compensating nut the 211 cams with the thunder header really woke this baby up now all i need is a head job ( head work ) to really get her going

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