I recently decided on a winter project. I have decided to make the jump to a 95. I went to the Stealership, and they gave me a break down of the upgrade, since I already have V&H BSL's (with Monster baffles) & SE intake. This is what they wanna do:

22661-99A - 3 7/8" High Compression (10.25:1)
16546-99 - 3 7/8" Big Bore Cylinders
1020-0003 - Power Commander
17052-99C - Gasket Kit, Top End
25152-00 - SE 211 Cam Kit

All of this for the "Low Low" price of... $1210.76 (NO LABOR INCLUDED)


Now, my next question... If I wanted to take this to a 103", I have been told all I really need to do is install the Pro Stroker Flywheel and Rod Assembly. Is this true? I would imagine that there will be some other small items to purchase for this, but not hundreds of dollars worth of extras. I am guessing mechanical (or auto) compression releases. And possibly some head work, in the way of springs? I have always been a fan of the Andrew's Cams. I really just want low-end torque and cruising power. A Heritage is NOT a drag bike, a would never use it as one. I just want to be able to cruise down the highway, and be able to crank the throttle to pass someone if needed. Also, while I am in there, should I go ahead and convert to gear-driven cams?

I have found a set of 3 7/8" cylinders & some 3 7/8" Flat-top pistons for $125... but they are used. He says there are about 1,200 miles on the setup. I was thinking about just buying them, and then trading out the pistons for the High-Compression pistons.

Any ideas? Comments? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

if you want low end power scratch the SE 211 cams, substitute an Andrews, Woods, Tman or Head-quarters bolt in cam if you dont do headwork out of the gate.

If you do head work, get a Hi lift cam, bigger torque and power.

If you went to a 103, you would need new pistons too!

then you would want to weld and true the new crank. It will turn into a bit of money.

It would be best to set it up at once.

I would do the 103, set it at 10.3 to one, HQ .575 cams with full head work, this would yield 115-120 lbs of torque under 3000 rpms!

 

I went with the HQ 95st complete kit for my Heritage its a '02. Night and day difference from even the upgrades I did with just cams and the other goodies prior. Didn't want to get into the lower end $$$, unless I need to down the road, this setup one of the best all around setups I've been on, the SE setups not even close for sure. Great down low and just frickin' pulls all the way through even riding two up with gear. Get ahold of Kevin @ protwin.com and check out the website for all their packages. Do it right the first time or just keep chasing your tail(or others)........

 

Well, I looked at protwin.com... that is a little to much money for my blood! $2,600+ for a 95" !? I know it's everything, but still, that is way more then I was looking to spend. Thanks for the info Grover!

 

well, trying to steer you to another shop wansnt my goal, but to mainly reconsider your cam choice if you were after big torque with a heavier bike.

Just do what you were doing, and get a HQ cam maybe a 0034 cam.

 

With our Stage I Heads, Andrews 37's, (or 26's) chain cams, 98",(w/forged Wiseco's, all Cometic gaskets, rings set) S&S pushrods, Barnett clutch spring, cam bearings, plugs, (w/free install of cams/shim on plate) and an oil pressure shim----------$1865.00.
BIG power, for that money.
Scott

 

Keep the used cylinders and hone to .010" over and buy new flat top pistons; sell the used ones on Ebay. Stay away from the domed pistons, they only complicate things and flat tops work better. Andrews 37, TMan 525 or 555 and send heads to the porter of your choice, BigBoyz does his "street" port for $299 plus machine work to heads to equalize chamber volume and set compression for the selected cam. Bean will also hone your cylinders and fit the new pistons for ya.

You didn't mention fuel management or tuning; probalby the most important element of the plan. Find a tuner with a rep and go with his recommendation, or if you are a DIYer, look into the TMax with auto tune.

Don't need gear drive cams, just another PITA. Conver to one of the upgrade kits for the hydraulic tensioners. There are two ways to go, the full OEM plate, hydraulic tensionersand roller chains or teh billet plate, hydraulic tensioners and roller chain on the outside only; both options run the new high volume pump.

Forget the 103", if $2600 is too rich for you blood, you don't even want to start down that road.

 

I gotta add something from experience. I had a nice 95" motor built last year, 05 carbed fxsts.... bored stock cylinders, ss 570g cams, flat tops, custom headwork.....99hp, 103 tq. Decided that wasnt enough and had timken done and cases bored for axtell 4.125 cylinders, andrews tw67g, more headwork, 2" intake valves, manu comp releases, and milled to 82cc to give me right at 10.4:1 compression, crank worked on alittle and B motor counterbalencers corrected, fatcat BBQ...... feels stronger and smoother than the 95". just recently got it back and still breakin it in, GO AS BIG AS YOU CAN AFFORD!!!!! if not you'll end up wanting more and it'll cost the same amount and maybe more to go bigger from 95" ask me how i know. Also, if you think your stock crank won't bend, think again!!! have it all corrected once and be done with it! Don't be scared of big motors, if u deal with a respectable builder there are no concerns. Im wanting to get a bagger of sorts in a few years to go with this one, and I promise you the motor will be done once, 107 at least and probably bigger, 117-124 done at 9.8:1-10.1:1 for long haul rideability, gas is only getting worse....