I've only had my bike for about a week now. I was doing a little research on the parts that are installed, and they don't seem like the correct set up. See below. What do you think? It seems to pull hard but reading up on the installed parts leads me to wonder if there is a better set up for me.

It's a 97 FLSTC stock motor and heads

1: Andrews EV31
2: Crane Cams Adjustable Chromoly Push Rod Sets/Stoker
3: Dynojet Stage 7 Thunderslide with Jet Kit
4: K & N High Performance Air Intake Kit with Smooth-Round Filter Assembly
5: Vance & Hines Straightshots Exhaust System

The EV31 appears to be for for a supercharger application. The timing is backed out a lot more than the EV27, which incidentally appears to be the correct cam for my application.
The stage 7 says that its for 80hp and up. Does anybody think I'm anywhere near that? What I'm thinking is that the previous owner that had these installed had plans for a 95 in his future.

 

Everything looks ok except the cam and the carb (I prefer the S&S Super E. The new ones perform better than most CVs). I'd go with the EV27 cam, or better yet, the Woods W6 which has .510 lift... still a "bolt-in" cam. For a street bike to perform well, you need a cam with a duration less than 240 deg and intake valve closing before 40 deg. While the EV31 duration is OK, the intake closes too late, causing your most torque to come in at too high an rpm. The EV27 and W6 will give you a higher static (cranking) pressure, too.

The Straightshots are OK for low and mid range torque provided you leave the baffles installed, but a 2-1 system like the Pro-Pipe would work a lot better.

As an example of what the EV27 is capable of, here's my 1995 Dyna's specs:

Stock bore and stroke
S&S Super E w/Yost Power Tube
Stock pistons
Stock heads ported and shaved .070 and using .030 Cometic head gaskets for a CR just shy of 10:1
Static cranking pressure is 190-200 psi
V&H Pro-Pipe HS with tuned standard baffle
Energy One extra-plate clutch kit w/ heavy duty spring (same plates Rivera uses in their racing clutch kits)
Dyna 2000i ignition system w/ custom advance curve and single-fire

All this gives me HP and TQ numbers in the 90s. The bike pulls HARD from idle to about 5000 rpm. I never need to downshift when passing or going through the mountains. I am able to get the front end in the air easily with this bike... usually accidently when hitting second gear. LOL! I broke a belt a couple weeks ago, of course it had over 45k miles on it. 0-60 times average just below 5 seconds. I'm still able to hit max speeds in excess of 130 mph at 6000 rpm.... it just doesn't accel as quickly after 5000 rpm. Doesn't matter to me, though. I just want extremely quick acceleration up to about 100. I rarely run it faster than that.

I'll be changing to the Woods W6H cam and roller rockers this winter which should put the TQ numbers over 100.

 

1. The camshaft is probably the wrong one. It has a fairly late closing point (46*). That moves the power band up pretty high. With a stock motor and heads, this cam really doesn't work all that well. I'd bet you cranking pressure are pretty low; like in the 150-160 range at best. I think you're right, the EV27 is much better cam for you. That will bring your pressure up some, but not a whole lot.

2. Pipes: Open pipes really kill the bottom and mid range. Look for a good 2-1 pipe, like Supertrapp.

3. Leave the carb alone for now. You can get some pretty impressive power from a slightly worked CV carb. After you change cams and pipes, then you really need to get it tuned with an exhaust gas analyzer to make sure your tuning is correct.

I think those 3 little changes will make a huge improvement.

 

Hmmmm.... I could have sworn I just said that.

 

Well, you did. I started typing that post at about 0800. Then got called away from my desk until about 1030. So I finished the post then. Dang, I hate it when work gets in the way of my goofing off

 

Thanks for the reply guys. Thanks for the advice.

I'm going to go ahead and have it dyno tuned with the current setup and see what she pulls. I may wind up going with a big bore this winter and go from there. Either way, I'm going to change the cam. The current setup should be fine for the rest of the riding season. I can't have the bike down until winter. My fiancee just dumped me, so I gotta have something to do for the rest of the summer! No better way to kill time.

With this cam, there is a definite power band. I'm guessing it starts at about 2800-3000 RPMs and never slows down until I shift. It feels like there is more potential there. I hate potential. Potential is nothing more than unfinished business. I must do something about that!!

 

LOL! I know what you mean. I work as a field service tech on equipment that almost never breaks. I'm at "work" right now (aka sitting in the office surfing the web).


AFHOG, A cam change wouldn't take you more than an hour. With the EV27, there's no need to check any clearances. You don't even have to remove the tappet blocks and tappets. Just use some magnets to hold the tappets up while you switch cams. Just compare the overall length of the two cams with a set of calipers and change the shims if necessary to compensate for the difference. I assume that the inner bearing was already changed when the EV31 was installed.... it's almost a given in most cases. But if you're happy with it for the rest of the season, go for it! I ride pretty much everyday 11 months out of the year (unless there's snow on the roads), so I don't have any set period of time to do maintenance. I just squeeze it in whenever we have a few days of crappy weather.