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96"/SE204 Combo With A Little Extra ?

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Old 08-09-2010, 09:27 AM
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Default 96"/SE204 Combo With A Little Extra ?

Any thoughts on how a 96"/SE204 combo would do with the addition of .030 hg and some mild head clean-up? Big Boyz calculator shows this to be 9.56 static/9.02 corrected and 181ccp. Would the benefits be worth the expense? I can see the motor being more efficient and cooler...
 
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:47 AM
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I have the 37's and did the heads, SE 1.725 rockers and a .030HG and it was well worth the effort. Stock pushrods and no compression releases. The Big Boyz calculator is nice but if you don't know your deck height or cc's it's still a ballpark figure.
 
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by troop
Any thoughts on how a 96"/SE204 combo would do with the addition of .030 hg and some mild head clean-up? Big Boyz calculator shows this to be 9.56 static/9.02 corrected and 181ccp. Would the benefits be worth the expense? I can see the motor being more efficient and cooler...
Don't bother with the headwork for that cam; those heads flow well enough. With the .030" head gasket the 204 will be a nice upgrade. The ground in advance gives that cam a great lopey idle. The 204 is a very underated cam IMHO. Keep the static less than 9.6, if you go higher, you could experience some detonation with the ground in advance, summer heat and corn fuel; you will be OK at 9.6.

The 204 and 37 with the 37 less sensitive to detonation. However, if you decide to go aftermarket, work the heads and set them up for more compression, say 10.0-10.2 and look at the Andrews 54.
 
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by paul s
I have the 37's and did the heads, SE 1.725 rockers and a .030HG and it was well worth the effort. Stock pushrods and no compression releases. The Big Boyz calculator is nice but if you don't know your deck height or cc's it's still a ballpark figure.
Yeah, wouldn't really know that until the heads are off I guess. Another thought was possibly 54's(with a 4* sprocket) that would allow stock pushrods with the .030 but not with the 204's. They would be better off though with a bit more CR. I do have a new set of SE tapered pushrods to go with the 204's.
 
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by troop
Yeah, wouldn't really know that until the heads are off I guess. Another thought was possibly 54's(with a 4* sprocket) that would allow stock pushrods with the .030 but not with the 204's. They would be better off though with a bit more CR. I do have a new set of SE tapered pushrods to go with the 204's.
The stock pushrods should work with the SE204s if all you are doing is relacing the stock head gasket with the thinner .030"; you are only losing about .012" in height. Check the math on the 54s. I believe they may have a different base circle diameter.

Also pay attention when tightening the adjustors if you use the SE tapered pushrods; they have a history of cracking from the inside out. I have had two come loose and won't use them any more without replacing the adjustor nuts.
 
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by djl
The stock pushrods should work with the SE204s if all you are doing is relacing the stock head gasket with the thinner .030"; you are only losing about .012" in height. Check the math on the 54s. I believe they may have a different base circle diameter.

Also pay attention when tightening the adjustors if you use the SE tapered pushrods; they have a history of cracking from the inside out. I have had two come loose and won't use them any more without replacing the adjustor nuts.
According to Andrews, the base circle on the 54's are a bit smaller and stock pushrods would work at .030. They're coming with machined grade 8 nuts just because of this
 
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:59 AM
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I was going to just put in the .030 HG's but I didn't like the powder coating inside the heads so I sent them off to Bean. Mine cc'ed at 85.8/86, I didn't bother with the 1.90 either. It was worth it to me having my heads done.
 
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by troop
According to Andrews, the base circle on the 54's are a bit smaller and stock pushrods would work at .030. They're coming with machined grade 8 nuts just because of this
As I thought but couldn't remember how much smaller. Like I said, check the math; you may want the adjutables with the 54s to get enough preload on the lifter to compensate for leakdown and valve train clatter. Stock pushrods will work with the SE204s abd will preload the lifters a bit which is not a bad thing.

You can spend the money to have Bean port your heads but unless you go for bigger inches and serious hi-lift cams, the money would be better spent on fuel management software, pipe and tuning. JMHO.

I was not aware that the MoCo has corrected the adjustor nut problem; that is good news as the pushrods are nice hardware.
 
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
As I thought but couldn't remember how much smaller. Like I said, check the math; you may want the adjutables with the 54s to get enough preload on the lifter to compensate for leakdown and valve train clatter. Stock pushrods will work with the SE204s abd will preload the lifters a bit which is not a bad thing.

You can spend the money to have Bean port your heads but unless you go for bigger inches and serious hi-lift cams, the money would be better spent on fuel management software, pipe and tuning. JMHO.

I was not aware that the MoCo has corrected the adjustor nut problem; that is good news as the pushrods are nice hardware.
The MoCo has not. The person I bought the new pushrods from bought some machined grade 8 nuts specifically because of the cracking problem. I have a SEPST along with JackPot exhaust. I certainly will get it tuned as I only live about 100 mi from FuelMoto. I was going to do 103" flat tops/headwork/204's but opted to stay at 96" for a couple years. I just bought the pushrods after I sold my pistons/gaskets as my initial thought was just adding cams and going adjustables to save some labor time as I won't be doing the work myself. Now I find myself wanting to stay at 96" but making it a better runner through compression/headwork. 204's may not be the way to go this way but I've seen/heard good results with them stock so I'm sticking with the cams. I've been in contact with Bean and his thought was that the .030 would be a good route along with just a mild porting/clean-up. Also, for 199.00 Kirby at Vee Twin Perf will do what's called a power kit,"we reconture the intake port for a 1.900 int valve,it includes 1.900 valves,fully radiused seat on int & ex and minimal porting,but works very well for guys on a budget" Ah hell ....
 

Last edited by troop; 08-09-2010 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 08-10-2010, 12:13 PM
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See what Kirby and/or Bean says but if you are going with the larger valves, you might want to rethink the 204s. A cam that can take advantage of the extra breathing capacity might be a better choice. As for the cleanup/porting, those heads, bone stock, with a good performace valve job, decked for compresson with a .030" head gasket, the Andrews 37 cam with good pipe and tune will make low 100s torque and mid 90s HP in a 95" build. Good luck!
 


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