Dalton

Understand what you say about dealers.

And I did some of what you are doing.
Went down to about 1 or 2 flats from bottom. Then got to worrying about pump up, --so put in S&S travel limmiters. Went down to 1 or 2 or 3 flats from bottom.

Constant noise just changes the harmonices slightly at different RPM spots.

If you have the time to fool with it and money I highly recomment, at least, checking out the Woods Lifters. I'm not talking about all this directional and roller bearing stuff, could care less about that kind of stuff.
Whats inside worked for me.

By the way on another post you made you made refference to a sore clutch hand and heavy clutch giving a problem.
Have you looked at the Reckluse Torque plate pressure plate?

I'm getting to the age where I have to at least keep this kind of thing in mind.

 

The clutch issue was on the bike I recently sold. I am now running the stock clutch spring and a VPC84T on this bike and pull is more than acceptable.

 

Here I sit at Black Hills HD while my motor is torn down to the cyl's, primary off and the cams pulled because the motor was clicking and a bad rattle that sounded bad. Noise was like said, at the top back cyl. Motor oil (Amsoil) is black as tar with only 1,400 miles from Ohio to here. Got the best wrench here at the dealer working on it. I am starting to think my oil broke down in the 100 degree heat coming out here. Mechanic has mic'd everything and said everything is in spec but, is wondering why my oil is so black with so few miles on it. Motor going back together as I write this and am hoping to get to Gillette, Wy yet today. Noise issues SUCK!!!! Putting HD syn oil back in and hope for the best.

 

Damn Dave, sorry to hear that. I hope they find something and that you can realte what it is. I too have mic'd most everything and still looking.

Did the noise appear all of a sudden or did it progressivley show up? Also, how many miles total on the engine?

 

I am experiencing the same thing. I have about 12k miles on my 2010 FLHTK, and I have developed a "ticking" towards the rear cylinder. My engine is mostly stock with the exception of a Stage 1 air cleaner/filter, PC-V, V&H Power Duals/Monster Ovals, and SE Compensator. I have been into the primary and pulled the exhaust system in trying to track down this "ticking."

Unless I can find a solution, I am close to surrendering her to the "Dealer Destructors." If anyone finds anything, please let us all know! Like previous posters, every time she goes into a dealer, she comes out with another problem.

 

I have an '11 103" and have what I assume is lifter noise now in the mornings. Didn't during warmer months so I imagine it's the lifters bleeding down a little overnight. I do ride all year, down into the low 20s at least and last year's Sporty was always pretty quiet at least in the valve train department. Everything stock and plan to keep it that way. Amsoil 20/50 which I might change to 10/40 for the cold months at next change to see if that helps the lifters pump up quicker. Bike will have to go back to the dealer for the rear brake switch recall so I'll mention it then. I understand that there are lifter and pushrod kits that can be done without pulling the heads, by using bolt cutters on the oem rig. Sounds awful but I guess it would work. Any thoughts on better lifter units?

 

HQ black ops lifters cured my loud tick. just saying got lucky they worked great.first tried new stock ones they did nothing except remove $100 from my wallet. the black ops were only about $180. good luck

ps.7k on them now

 

I don't think I posted what was eventually found. I had a valve sticking, only when cold, engine warmed up a bit, valve guide expanded and ticking was gone. All companents were in spec, nothing bent or scored. What it was was a buildup of "varnish on the valve stem that baked on and eventually the valve to guide clearance got too tight. The only thing I can figure is I was getting gas that had some additive or orther substance that caused the issue. In taling with other builders, the problems was seen by quite a few over the last summer, and now has seemed to go away. We all think it was fuel related because of a sticky residue also found in the intake tract. Anyway, I doubt that this is what most are chasing. The ticking from this issue is much heavier, almost sounds like an adjustable pushrod backed out of adjustment, lasts until there is some heat input and goes away in a mile or two. I personally now have encountered it on my bike and two others.