The newer style chain has half the links, hard to explain... but causes less wear on the tensioner pad. Your chain is probably pretty smooth from the pad rubbing on it for thousands of miles. So, it may not be much of a diff. If it were me, I'd use the newer chain just because I paid for it in the kit. lol Some do not like using either of the older style, original cam chains and opt for the Andrews or Herko kits which replace both chains with the newer style. Not sure if this is an option with your year of bike.

 

My thoughts precisely. This chain has 44,000 miles on it and has been pretty well "polished" by spring-loaded tensioners. I know the roller chain is a better chain, but since mine is already polished, I may just use it, but you're right....I do pay for the new chain with the kit. At least...I will always have the new chain and sprockets if I need to change them on down the road. I may pop for the Andrews sprocket for my 99 like DJ mentioned above. I do have one more thing to consider though. My rear cam needs to have splines and I don't know if the 203's do or not. This bike was upgraded with the full Stage II before I got it from a previous owner (good friend) and I don't know if it has a key or splines and I have never been into this particular motor. That will be another consideration once I get it all yanked out. Somebody here may be able to tell me the Stage II 203 rear cam drive sprocket had splines or not?

 

BUD...I talked to my dealer and they told me the labor would be $500, but that does include any gaskets, seals, etc. that I would need for the top-end. This is what I was quoted if I "show up with the parts in my hand".

My next question was....will you do just the pressing in and out of the support plates for me and the answer was...yes, if that's all you need we can do that for you pretty much for nothing, but I'd guess a $40-$50 "tip" would be in order.

I don't know...contrast this to a price I got at the Durango shop for just a rear tire change. Those guys told me it was a 4-hour job JUST for a rear tire change. Now...let me do the math...4 hours at $125/hour plus the tire cost=going next door to the Honda shop to get a rear tire installed on a Harley Ultra for less than $200 in 45-minutes...that's what i did in Durango.

 

You will need a set of conversion cams; Andrews has a good selection and their 26N is a bolt in for the TC88. I would use the new roller chain; you have it why not use it and complete the conversion.

 

Well DJ....I got this little thing called BUDGET in the way. I am going to tear it down and will likely just go back with the silent chain and sprockets for now, but I do have a set of S&S adjustable push rods lying around here someplace. I think I will go ahead and pull the stock ones out the top and take a look at the crankcase breather upgrades some of you guys have mentioned. Maybe go back with the adjustable rods and then if I ever want to go back in the cam chest....it will be a bit easier.

I am also pretty sure that I need to take a peek at the inner cam bearings to see if they were changed during the Stage II upgrade. I know the HD wrench that did that job, but he can't remember if he changed them or not. I will likely wind-up installing a new set. This bike sat in my friends garage from 2002 until 2008 when I finally convinced him he did not need it. He had put 200-miles on it after the Stage II upgrade and then became disinterested in riding and parked it for 6 years. I have put 31,000 miles on it since then.

 

DJ...Old Gunny, or anyone else who has performed this modification...opening-up the oil return orifices I mean.

I have heard around 2-3 different sizes in which to open-up those small oil return holes under the breather. I suppose one could get them too large, but DJ mentioned like a .125 I believe and I have also heard to go with a #43 bit, which is around .089. Do you guys have a "specific" recommendation or do you think a #43 is enough. I have read where the stock drain-holes are .060.

I "have it all apart in my hands" now and am ready to make this suggested modification before I clean it all up and stick it back together.

 

I opened mine up to 7/64. Many have went to 1/8(.125)

 

Thanks cuda. Hey....I had a '67 440 Magnum RT Charger. Wife could hardly drive the thing....kept burning down the rear tires.

 

Can anybody here tell me how quickly the new pump should get wound-up. I am about ready to crank this thing after the upgrade and I have never had a dry-start rebuild on a Twin Cam. The build went well, but I have the early TC and had to plug an oil gallery in the support plate. Just wondering how long I have to stare at the red oil pressure warning light before I get comfortable.

 

Fire it up. It'll go out pretty quick. Just like an oil change.......