I built this car for a customer a couple years ago with the motor he supplied me. I didn't know much about Harleys at the time, that is until I finished the car and realized THIS THING SHAKES LIKE A FREAKING PAINT MIXER. Suffice it to say that I have tried everything to fix the vibrations, but with the car being built totally from thin wall chromoly tubing there is no way this thing is going to stop shaking. It has broken both tail lights off, the mirror, fuel pump, and shakes everybolt loose everytime you start it up. I want it gone the customer wants a Harley motor in the car and has paid dearly for this motor and doesn't want to buy another. The car has a big back sprocket I don't really need all that power, just some civillity. The car turned out great but is no fun to drive because of this vibration problem. Do you think this motor is tradeable? It's brand new, fully polished, all the bells and whistles. The motor has about 100 miles on it, all being test miles trying to cure the vibration issue. I need a newer twin cam (balanced right?) motor. Is there any way to adapt the trans and primary drive from the Evo to the Twin Cam? Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Dan

 

you would need the TC "B" engine from the soft tail models, the "A" engine from the Dyna models and the Baggers will shake just like the one you have now.

you may also consider mounting another 124 the other direction to counter the vibes! that would be wicked cool!!!!

You might have to redo the engine mounting system to isolate the engine from the chassis.

PS clean work on the dampers BTW.

 

I think I would have to tow it on a trailer behind the car to isolate it anymore. I do like the "boxer" idea I could make it a '32 sedan delivery.
I was just hoping someone would know someone that uses motors like this that may have some "take offs" they may be willing to trade. It seems like it would be a good deal for someone.

 

Those side dampers are not a good idea. Those ridged mounted motors need a ridged top motor mount. Get a top motor mount that spans the two heads and mount it to the chassis. I see a tab on the frame that might be a good place to bolt to.

I see a top mount that the coil seems to be attached to. Run a ridged link from there to the tubing frame to the rear of it. A stiff member that would clamp around the tubing to the motor mount somewhat like a connecting rod.

The tab on the frame under the backbone is the top motor mount tab it bolts to the head bridge mount and stabilizes the rocking and up and down motion of the motor.

 

Really nice job.

Check out Berry Controls.

I can't figure how to insert a link. They may have something that with a little modification might work

 

+1...It appears the top mount going thru thru aluminum tubing is not a solid mount....If that top-end is allowed to float fore and aft, it will result in a paint shaker!!

 

These guys are right. Plenty of hard mounted bikes running around. Lots of guys are real knowledable about this.

You may have come to the right place.

 

Barry Controls are the OEM supplier for the early three point rubber mount.


http://www.barrycontrols.com/products/index.cfm

 

A newer twin cam will be the same. But, as has been said... a "B" motor would be way more civil in this application (that motor has internal counter rotating shafts to aid in smoothness and these engines are hard mounted into their frames. The engine you have now is now rubber mounted and has a hard point top mount.

The 09 up bikes have a similar top mount as yours but goes side to side instead of fore and aft like yours. Go to HD dealer and look at a 2010 touring bike. I think rubber mounted bottom mounts and solid top mount would tame this. Go look at a bike... the motor shakes within the frame at idle. Also... you may need some kind of 'tuning' on that engine. If, at 2000 rpm, it still shakes wildly? That is not correct in any event. The engine should smooth out by 2000 rpm.

Mount the engine like a stock EVO is mounted... that may very well fix most problems. A 'donor' evo frame could be used for this.

WAY 'wicked' car!!!

 

I see a fore and aft stabilizer link. Motors that are rubber mounted will rock back and forth and only use a top hiem join to verticaly stabilize the engine. In those applications the motor and trans mission are tied together and rock fore and aft in unison. A hiem stabilizer at right angles to the motor from the top engine mount to the frame hold the motor upright.

Have you tried it without the stabilizer?