.......... Problems.
#11
#12
It is the responsibility of the shop (or any builder) to EITHER do the weight sheet and weigh the pistons, OR send the pistons TO BE USED to John and HE will weigh it.
I'm with Scotty, and stand behind my original statement... John does do good work. John 200% stands behind his work. Call him again, and just tell him the story and SEE whats up. Maybe if you explain that the shop is saying ???, John would be more helpful?
I have a bad feeling........ If John did the full Monte, it should be every bit as smooth as stock, or damn close. I feel that you are on the right track and ....... as much as this sucks...... a teardown is in order.
Who did this? A forum member?
I'm with Scotty, and stand behind my original statement... John does do good work. John 200% stands behind his work. Call him again, and just tell him the story and SEE whats up. Maybe if you explain that the shop is saying ???, John would be more helpful?
I have a bad feeling........ If John did the full Monte, it should be every bit as smooth as stock, or damn close. I feel that you are on the right track and ....... as much as this sucks...... a teardown is in order.
Who did this? A forum member?
Last edited by wurk_truk; 05-04-2010 at 06:54 AM.
#13
#14
#16
Darkhorse requires a work sheet for each crank they rebuild. They know the weights of the various piston/ring assemblies, so if you don't know the weight but know the brand/size of the pistons, that's usually all they need for the weight. The cranks are not dynamically balanced and they don't have to have the weight down to the gram.
Additionally, Darkhorse provides a work sheet with the cranks they rebuild and noting the before/after runout and a lot of other measurement data; see the attachment.
Whoever sent the bottom end/crank to Darkhorse should have both sheets. If you don't have those sheets, you have no way to verify whether or not Darkhorse did the work.
Additionally, Darkhorse provides a work sheet with the cranks they rebuild and noting the before/after runout and a lot of other measurement data; see the attachment.
Whoever sent the bottom end/crank to Darkhorse should have both sheets. If you don't have those sheets, you have no way to verify whether or not Darkhorse did the work.
#17
Ultimately.. here is the problem and the solution. You will NOT like either. But. I'm on my second attempt at a proper build myself, so trust me on this...
#1, YOU did not send crank to John, the shop did. John has NO way of knowing it was YOUR crank they did, only (at best) they did some cranks for the shop.
So..... in all reality??? You ARE closed out on that.
#2 Dude. tear it down and fix it correctly. Sooner or later you will anyways (ask me how I know THAT).
So, go in and fix it and find a way to move on.
Once apart? You can see if it's all welded, etc.
#1, YOU did not send crank to John, the shop did. John has NO way of knowing it was YOUR crank they did, only (at best) they did some cranks for the shop.
So..... in all reality??? You ARE closed out on that.
#2 Dude. tear it down and fix it correctly. Sooner or later you will anyways (ask me how I know THAT).
So, go in and fix it and find a way to move on.
Once apart? You can see if it's all welded, etc.
#19
What is being described sounds a bit out of the normal for a crank imbalance problem.
On my 120, when I installed the SE comp, I also installed a vibration, so took it back out.
I did have the bike tuned by a very reputable tuner, and he did a really great job of getting me max hp and tq. Unfortunately, the tune was also right on the ragged edge, and I had a steady buzzing in the bars and floorboards at different rpms. I went in and backed a couple of degrees of timing out in those particular areas and the buzzing went away. I would definitely rule out all options before tearing it back down.
Oh, and Darkhorse did the crank - .0005 runout when new, and .0005 runout at 40k miles.
On my 120, when I installed the SE comp, I also installed a vibration, so took it back out.
I did have the bike tuned by a very reputable tuner, and he did a really great job of getting me max hp and tq. Unfortunately, the tune was also right on the ragged edge, and I had a steady buzzing in the bars and floorboards at different rpms. I went in and backed a couple of degrees of timing out in those particular areas and the buzzing went away. I would definitely rule out all options before tearing it back down.
Oh, and Darkhorse did the crank - .0005 runout when new, and .0005 runout at 40k miles.
#20