Some headwork and a compression boost would get you there.

 

Thanks for chiming in; I was just guessing at Bean's backlog but it is winter and I suppose he could be backed up for 4 weeks or more.

Rebel/FXSTD.AU-there are two porters on the west coast that will work with customers on an exchange basis. Both are excellent and can be competitive in price.

 

Well, just to throw a wrench in everything. You orginally mentioned 90 hp/100 TQ as an objective. I've been reading some post here about Fuel Moto's use of the TW6-6 cams. For a lot less money, you can just do a cam change and acheive your objective. I know it's easy to get caught up in "more power" on this forum, but if you want low-mid torque at a low cost, this might be a good alternative.

You should be able to just order the cams for your local HD (or install yourself) and then get it dynoed. Dyno charts are at this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...no-charts.html

Several other threads if you do a search.

 

That is a possibility if you don't mind the aggressive ramps and valve train noise that goes with the Woods cams. Noise is a relative thing but valve train noise annoys the crap out of me; I hate it.

The cheapest way out for FXSTD.AU is to have his cylinder bored to fit new pistons, either the cast low dome or flat top SE piston, send out his heads, install a set of SE259E cams and get her tuned. Numbers in the 110+ range are possible and the bank ain't broke. I just don't know if he has access to quality machining there, you now, torque plates, etc. He couls ship cylinders with his heads and have BigBoyz buy the pistons, bore the cylinders and send the package back. Or, he could go the AMS route with their head/cylinder exchange package for $967; CNC ported heads, bored cylinders and KB offset pin forged flat top pistons. The AMS guys just need to know what cam and how to set the heads up.

http://www.automotivemachine.com/harley.htm

So many options.

 

Per Fuel Moto and people who have installed the Woods TW6-6, there is not much valve noise because of the grind on them. I don't have the Woods, I know that some are noisy, but have only read the posts here based on other's experience, that these are fairly quiet. You can do a search and read up on them.

Was just offering an inexpensive route that would get the OP to his original objective.

I run the SE 255's (got a good deal on some low mileage takeoffs) and am very happy with them. I get great low end torque (97), but hp is only around 82 at 5500 rpm. The TW6-6 gets hp up to 90. Now, as I read the post from Fuel Moto, that also required their new head pipe. Would be 3-5 less without it.

 

Nice thread. I kinda agree all the way around, but for one thing... If you DO the 106, even though it's an 'off shore' component... I cannot in life imagine S&S not standing behind their products worldwide.

I did a 106, with Bean's heads, andrews 54s, D&D exhaust and have 100 TQ from 2500 to 5500 rpm (max tq is 117)and really like the bike's performance overall. This on an 09 SG.

Must be hard living out of the US and trying for a performance boost.

 

"V&H pro pipe prolly be installed concurrently - would be silly to not do it, plus the V&H BR might be too noisy with a 106/7 and i've already got EPA noise notices."

Listen to the builder on your choice of exhaust and research the dyno charts out there. I have not seen a V&H Pro pipe with a solid low end on a chart. I surely have not seen them all, but just my 2 cents.

 

I might be sounding stupid here, but..... your 96" has a bore of 3.750 and your stroke of 4. 375. If you switch to a 103" which has the same stroke of 4.375 all you do is a simple swap of cylinders from H.D..I am not sure of the 107 Axtell (which is a good) kit, but with the H.D. 110 (bore = 4.00), you have to machine the crankcase. The Axtell 107 kit has a bore of 4.125 which might require it also. You stated you did not want to put out for the 110 due to expense. I would save your money get the 103" and get a cam that would match your riding/bike (3500-4000 RPM). Something moderate between 241-265 (every 10 degrees change in duration moves the powerband 500 RPM) degrees duration and 45 degrees overlap. Several companies make good cams including HD screaming eagle. And before going out and porting and polishing your heads, you should see what your heads flow vs the output of your engine you decide on. You want to match your cam & heads. Fianlly you mentioned about strokers motors (increasing the stroke from 4.375 yours to whatever you decide). One it is going to cost you and you have to get into the crankcase, it will increase your torque in the midrange which is what you want. More important it increases your average piston speed. That along with your BMEP is what you should be considering when hot rodding your engine. For good engine life, a BMEP of 175psi is best (BMEP= (HP X 792000) / (DISPLACEMENT X RPM). Once you figure out what kit you are going with you can figure out your BMEP. Also you want to keep your piston speed to somewhere around 4500feet/min (stroke x RPM)/6 = APS. I tried to throw in the least amount of numbers. There are so many more things to consider but these some basics. Hope I don't confuse you.

 

UPDATE.

After all this discussion, my local stealer had a winter deal on for a 103" upgrade. Bored cylinders, new pistons, retained cylinder heads but added compression releases, new throttle body (52 or 54mm, can't remember exactly) and the SE 211 cam. Not what i started out looking at but as part of the deal it was about $1,000 cheaper than it would have been to with individual pieces. I added a Supertrapp SuperMeg 2-1 at the same time to replace the Vance & Hines Big Radius 2-2 i had been running.

I've just got to back from being dyno tuned and have 97 HP and 110 TQ up from 72 HP & 83 TQ. A little disappointed i couldn't get it to 100HP but it's such an improvement on the previous performance i'm not going to obsess about 3 horses since i opted not to do any head work. I'm loving the power staight off the line now and it keeps pulling up to and past 90mph.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in. Thought you might like to know how the story ends.

 

The numbers look OK; how is the power distributed? Good choice on the exhaust. Headwork and a little more compression would have gotten you the HP you wanted and another foot pound or two on the torque side. All in all and considering cost, sounds like you did just fine. Good on ya mate!