OK. Some great posts there thanks.

103 - bore out OEM cylinders, new pistons, port OEM heads (and drill a compresion release). If i want power 2000 to 5000rpms (off the line and roll on for overtaking between 3000-4500), what cam would work well? I note the Woods cams seem to have a reputation for being noisey? Is that right?

107 - new cylinders (S&S 106, Axtell 107) and new pistons. Same cam question above (and same answer?) Would i need new cylinder heads - they'd come with CR's which would be nice. Riding weather can be as high as 85-105 farenheit. I like the idea of a kit so its guarenteed i'll get the performance i want... assuming i pick the right cam.

The cost differnce seems to be new cylinders for a 107 build as opposed to boring the OEM's for a 103 build.

For both, new throttle body? clutch? higher spec starter motor required? No concerns with the bearings (crankshaft or whats that one at the base of the cylinder called?)

And to round of these novice questions, can anyone explain the 'stroker' concept and is it worth also doing? Is it worth also exploring a 110 or 113 build? Can someone note for me real fast what other parts would need to be changed?

 

If EVEN considering a 110/113" combo, then a 117" is the same labor.
Scott

 

Stroker is another thing. Split the case, new crank.

Starting issues can be overcome with a couple things. Three I guess.
Stock TB will work fine. You can smooth the inlet some easily. gotta help.

Proper tuning. Playing with the Cranking Fuel with the tuner. Assuming at least a SERT or a Supertunner.TTS is better.

Compression releases.

I found if when you turn the starting switches on, hit the starter immediatly. Don't wait for the fuel pump to finish pumpin up. Just do like starting your auto.

My 107 starts easy hot or cold and has stock starter and close to 10.8 compression. 205 CCP anyway.

 

Without going into specifics, I wish I would have went straight to a 107 in lew of doing a nice 103. Spending the extra 100, would have made some difference, if only in my mind.

Off to the garage!

 

I went for Andrews 54H coz I didnt hear any1 complaining about them. Anyway you have many other good options to consider like Cycle Rama & Red Shift, SE released some new cams developed specifically for fuel injected HDs with 103 or bigger bores, these are 254E part No.25503-10 (released 2 weeks ago) & 259E part No.25482-10

 

100TQ/90HP are 95" numbers; most well built 95"ers do better. You can achieve higher numbers real easy and cheap.

As others have suggested get your cylinders bored to fit SE cast flat tops, have the heads cleaned up and decked for compression required to achieve 9.0-9.3 corrected compression with the cam of your choice and a .030" head gasket. You will achieve the numbers without head porting but if you want a little more, have the heads ported and maybe a larger intake valve, but you are after a "velocity" port job, ala BigBoyz but others, like Don (Deweys) Dorfman are doing it too. Many will disagree but the SE255 sounds like a good cam for your application; not much left after 4400rpm but, if tuned right, it will pull hard up to it. I am not a fan of dealer builds but the 255 it a torque making cam and lots of fun to ride.

I am not familiar with the new H-D cams but have recently seen a dyno chart for one of them that pulled right up to 7000rpm. High lift, long duration and not what you want but the point is, the new cams might be worth checking into.

Someone previously mentioned the Andrews 54 which would also work well for your application. Comes on early, hangs in past 5000rpm with a very flat TQ curve.

The V&H BR are not your friend when it comes to making torque; a 2:1 would be much better but that's a personal choice.

You can achieve more than you have said you want with a 103" using factory components. No need to pay for aftermarket 107" kits and pro-street porting to get there. Compression releases? Yes. Larger TB? Not necessary. Run stock pushrods and save even more $$. Every Woods cam I have been exposed to has been noisy but noise is kind of like beauty, you know the eye/ear of the beholder.

Most tend to over build and over cam; keep it simple.

 

You'll find a dyno chart in SE catalog with this new 259E cam, its a 103" stage 3 kit (103" cylinders, 259E cams, valve springs, forged pistons, pushrods & race tuner) using STANDARD HEADS it achieved 108tq & 98hp, I bet if the heads are ported, this kit will be more like 115tq & 108hp & I think these are very decent numbers for 103" street build.

 

Got prices from my local stealer - $2,775 for a 103" bore with SE 211 cams, no porting, no CR. Not really the deal of the century.

I HATE living in Australia when it comes to buying anything for HD!

I think my best way forward would be to source parts from USA and then pay for installation. If i can pick up a kit (really liking the S&S 106 idea) then say 5-7 hours work is about $770 (MAX) then the cost of the kit on top (eg: USD$600 [AUD about $680] for S&S 106 plus cylinder heads [cheaper then porting them here in Oz] then a cam) total pice would be about AUD $2,000 to $2,500 with the cam and shipping.

So... decision getting closer, it will be a 106 or 107 kit build. Prolly the Andrews 54H cam (2200-5000 rpm is my target window, and i've changed the stock 66 tooth pulley to a 70 tooth, so it revs harder than stock and i should hit the cam window nice and early around town).

If anyone has further cam advice, now would really be the time. I want power from 2000 to 5000rpm and as quiet as possible.

I've seen nightrider.com and they suggest C&C... any good.

I'd love to get S&S rocker covers.. can you buy these seperately? I suppose you can, having people see S&S on the covers would be awesome - nice to have the power, but also nice to get the nods.

That leaves me thinking S&S 106 + S&S cylinder heads, OR, Axtell 107. Is this going to leave me reliability retining the OEM piston rod, crank and bearings? (i note the 54H is a high lift cam, so increased compression ratio). I'll retain the throttle body, starter and battery as OEM, but will get CR's in the new heads.

V&H pro pipe prolly be installed concurrently - would be silly to not do it, plus the V&H BR might be too noisy with a 106/7 and i've already got EPA noise notices.

Other than the S&S and Axtell kits,anything else worth looking at?

AND - thanks for taking the time to read this, it might sound silly but there's nothing that comes close to this level of experience in Oz. I really appreciate your time. I LOVE seeing the stealer's had jerk back when i can say "well, no, see the SE isn't ..." they're so used to being taken as gospel it's clearly a shock to the system.

PS - Progressive fork springs go in this weekend with Revtech emulators... life is good!

 

Just a thought and another reason to re-consider an H-D 103" build. If you ship in some aftermarket stuff and have the local dealer install and there are any problems, the local dealer will throw you under the bus in a heart beat. Then you will be stuck between a parts supplier offshore whose reponsibility for the end result ended the day the parts left their warehouse and a dealer who probably won't be happy building with offshore supplied parts. There won't be any warranty, only on labor and good luck trying to get the dealer to step up under those circumstances.

In you situation, an H-D build would not be a bad idea. Tell your dealer that they can supply parts at 20% discount or you can buy them at 20% discount from Zanotti's or any other US based discount H-D dealer and ship them in. I don't know which is cheaper but at least the build is all Harley and the dealer should stand behind it.

You started the thread by saying you would be happy with 100TQ/95HP. The H-D build with the right cam and good tune is likely to beat those numbers by 10%. So why complicate things. Are you willing to put yourself in the position described above to save $200? JMHO.

 

I totally agree with djl, beside you already have SE race tuner, high flow a/c & pipes, so you could just go for SE 103" stage 2 Pro kit No.29894-07A (103" cylinders, flat top pistons, 255 cams & clutch spring) it costs USD 593/- from Zanotti & makes 102tq & 82hp without any head work & no need for any additional modifications or parts, just a bolt in kit. Of course you can also sell your original cylinders, pistons & cams for about USD 200/- & send your heads for some work to achieve more power, probably 110tq & 95hp (costs about USD 700/- with shipping). This way your total cost including labor will be less than USD 1700/-

Check out the dyno chart of this kit in SE catalog page 16. The torque curve is above 95 lb-ft from 2500 rpm till 4500 rpm!! this kit has more torque at 2500 rpms than SE 103" stage 3 or stage 4 & even more than SE 113"!!!!!!!!!