Remembe guys I don't have that nice new fuel injection like you. They only ran mine for a couple of years. The only time I have to watch the throttle is when it is real cold out. Mine acts just like yours in this warm weather. Don't worry guys it purrs like a kitten.


Terry

 

I had a carbed bike years ago and I never let it run for 5-10 minutes before I could ride. I will admit that not all bikes are the same, but that seems a little long to me. I would think that after a minute or so, that you should be able to ride. It might be a little rough for a while, but it will warm up and run better. My new Harley has efi and I wasn't sure about it because efi and Harleys just sounded different to me. I'm glad that I got the efi, because I just hit the switch, 15-20 seconds and I'm off.

 

Hmmm... sounds like you need louder pipes!! She should ROAR like a lion!!

Cheers!
[sm=icon_rock.gif][sm=icon_rock.gif][sm=icon_rock.gif]

 

Hey everybody! Well today I started my Sportster with the choke full out and after it started I put it in about half way and let her run for 2-3 minutes before I took off and left the choke half out for about a mile before pushing it all the way in, she seems to run better with this warm-up procedure, although it ran good after the 5-10 minute warmup at the dealership, so I think I'll try the 2-3 minute warm-up for a while and see if that works out okay. The only cough was when I pulled into my driveway about 6 miles from work and I think maybe I have a habit of downshifting from 4th or 3rd down to 2nd when entering a turn and closing the throttle while I'm in the turn, could this be a part of the cough I've experience when turning??? Can you get the carb rejetted to run better without getting new pipes or should I just wait until next spring when my wife buys me the new exhaust??? Also, do you recommend SEI or SEII pipes, I just want a little more rumble so everyone knows I have a Harley!!! Thanks.

 

Better pipes and more air will make the bike run better. I would not fool with the carburator until I did pipes and breather.

 

Could verywell be. You should slow before the turn and accelerate or hold the throttle constant through the turn. Closing the throttle while in the turn is bad technique. Have you been to a rider's training course? If not you will be surprised at what you learn there even if you are an experienced rider.

 

I was warned by an old biker to let the engine heat up completely due to the various types of metals in the motor. The aluminum, steel, brass, etc. all heat up at different time intervals. This time difference finds the different metals expanding at different times. Allowing the motor to heat up brings all components up to the same temperature and hopefully to the same expansion.

May sound like BS but for me I bought into the explanation.

 

pig iron, A couple thoughts. You're downshifting 2 gears before a turn. Are you actually slowing down 20 miles an hour for the turn? I don't know what the speed limits are on your route to work, but could you be lugging the engine? (Not running at enough RPM's). Also, as was mentioned above, you should be accelarating sloghtly through the turn and don't forget, when you downshift, you are engine breaking and NO BRAKE LIGHT comes on. Make certain you tap the brake pedal (you'll do much better in turns and corners staing off the front brake)
Can you tell yet that I'm in the middle of an MSF course?
Finally, SEII's by all means. Not enough difference in sound on the SEI's, IMHO.
Wait??? Why? You'll find something else you want by then. You'll want to re-jet if you do pipes and air kit. Highly recommended.
Take care and hope you don't mind the advice. I was just reminded of the brake light thing on another thread recently and realized that I wasn't giving the other drivers a warning that I was slowing down. Art

 

Pig,

You need to change the low speed jet in the carb. When everyone says that they are "lean from the factory" this is what they are refering to.
It's really easy, go to the dealer and buy a #45 low speed jet. Remove the aircleaner, the three allen heads that hold the backing plate to the carb need to come out a little at a time, work your way around all three. They will crack loose turn then get harder to turn, STOP and move on the the next one. This is the way to keep them from loosening all the way while you are riding and get sucked into the engine. That would be bad.
Remove the bottom of the carb, the bowel, it has four phillips screws. In the center of the carb looking up you will see a hole about the same diameter as the jet you have purchased. Using a small flat screwdriver unscrew the stock jet and replace it with the #45.
If you need to you can remove the factory seal from the idle adjustment although you stated that your dealer had already adjusted it so it should have been already removed. using a flat screwdriver screw it in until it bottoms lightly, do not force it. Then turn it out 2 1/2 to 3 turns to richen the idle mixture. You may find that it is already at this positon from the dealer. What he did is fine but, if you don't change the jet it will always be a little lean.
This change will also make you ready for an aftermarket aircleaner and preformance exaust. The best bang for the buck is the Sreamin' Eagle slip ons and aircleaner

Good luck, DC.

 

Oh yeah, and what those other guys said about taking a course, really, the more you know the more fun it is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DC. PS. rubbernecker my butt!