If on a budget, you could do cams only first. I am very pleased with what a cam only did to the 88". Im in no hurry to do a 95" kit. It also pulls really nice 2up now.

Here is a guess for cam install. I installed cams myself so can not give a better estimate.

225 cams
150 adj push rods
30 gaskets and orings
400 labor
120 tensioners if they need replacing
20 Timken inner bearings
40 oil change and filter

If you go with the newer hydraulic tensioners, cam plate, oil pump add anther $350

Again, this is a guess...

 

If you know you are going to do head work soon, don't make a cam choice now. The cam choice you'd make now may limit what you can do with a 95" build with head work.

Also, why choose an "N" cam? These work only with the Andrews cam plate, and with your future engine plans, the "N" cam selection is very limited. If you want a different cam plate, consider the HD billet cam plate. It's a nice piece and you can use any cam you want, except the "N" cams.

As for what you are looking for, an earlier intake valve closing tends to move the torque earlier in the rpms. You can use the Bigboyz cam comparator to review cam specs.

One of the reasons the HQ-0034/500 cam performs well and is popular is its intake close is 36* while most comparable cams have an intake close of 40*. I've had the HQ-0034's for at least a couple of years in my otherwise stock 88 with Rinehart TD's and SE a/c and haven't thought about a 95" since.

 

Andrews doesn't make cam plates.

 

Ha. Just when I thought I had things reasonably figured out...more info to consider.

Thanks all for the feedback. The 21's sounded like a good option when I read about how some people used them. It seemed as if they provided some good performance boost in the 88 and also they were also a good fit for some 95 builds when they got to that point. So the same cam benefited both configurations.

Now that I know the difference in cams is relative to RPM and not MPH, I can say what I want is for them to come on sooner than later. As a general rule I tend to downshift when RPMs are at 2000 or below, call it 2200 for 2-up riding. Anything below that obviously feels like lugging with my stock 88. So I think whatever I look at needs to kick in down there.

I do sometimes kick it in the ribs (interstate merging for example) and run the gears to about 5500-5800 between shifts. I think my rev limiter is set around 5700 and don't see a need to change that anytime soon; not for the stock 88 anyway.

I'd love a cam that had a profile that would kick a$$ from 2000-5500. I spend most of my time in say 2000-4500 so putting the power there is definitely most important. Besides, if the low end pulls that much harder, I may not need to wind it out to 5500 anymore. Both the 21's and 26's on paper seem to answer the mail with 1700-4800 and 1800-5200 respectively. In fact, the 26's seem to have a more appealing RPM range for me. But the links others provided suggested that the 21's should not be discounted just because they look milder on paper.

Again, thanks for the replies. I learn something new every day.

 

You said it "all" right there. Not so sure everyone understands this and how it relates to actually riding and getting the bike to move. Then again, some just like riding in the higher rpms... its all good

 

21's close at 30*
26's at 35*

 

I love my 26s. Its hard to describe, but before I installed them, it took a "long" time to get near the rev limit. Now the bike seems to accelarate so fast I'm there before I know it, and by the time I hit fifth gear, I dont need any more HP. Kuma, how yo loving your 21s?

 

Hey Kbore, For just a cam install, these things are great. Went 2up again this week and they just make it a better ride. You know what Im talkin about

 

One basic fact to keep in mind is that ALL aftermarket cams will improve top end over the oddball EPA-mandated cams that come stock on Big Twins. Most aftermarket cams will hurt the bottom end, though. The mildest cams, like the Andrews 21 and 26 will offer the most improvement at low to medium rpm. Most other cams won't kick in til you're above 3000 rpm, which is above 70 mph in top gear on most current bikes. So if you want power to pass on the highway without down-shifting, don't over-cam your bike.

 

All good info. Now....how to get the wife to buy off on this...

Oh yeah, Harleypingman asked why I was looking at the 'N' versions. I was reading Andrews literature and I thought that was the correct application for the hydraulic roller conversion setup. I want to get rid of spring tensioners.