Hey everyone! Just bought a PCV, VH BR2-2 and Kuryakyn Hypercharger for my '09 Rocker C. I've never done mechanical work and I want to do this all on my own. I also bought the service manual to help me out.

My question is I noticed there are charts for torque on specific bolts and they show a range ex 40-60 ft/lb...should I just torque it to 50? or go high or low? Also, it seems they want every bolt torqued...is this necessary or are there certain ones that matter more?

Lastly, which part of the installation is going to be the toughest? I know finding a place for the PCV is probably it but besides that anything I should pay special attention to? And are there any novice mistakes I could ignore from a little advice?

Thanks ahead of time!
Kyle

 

Go to Harbor Freight and get the torque wrenches, 1/4, 3/8 at least. Cheap.
Use middle range of figures for these things cause most torque wrenches are + - 3% or so.
Remember---Steel bolts excessively tightened in aluminum equals stripped thresds.
Also any bolt hole should be cleaned out, no oil settled in them. This can cause stripped threads also as the bolt bottoms on the oil, something gotta give, the aluminum will first.
Lock tight every bolt or nut, at least use blue.

Have fun.

 

Gunny,

Thanks man for the reply! Actually instead of buying the torque wrenches I was just gonna borrow them from someone I know. So I need a 1/4 and a 3/8...lb foot or lb inch? I will go for the middle ranges for the torque figures and make sure they are cleaned out. Also, I just bought some lock tight blue. Lastly I will try and have some fun! Hopefully I wont muck this one up...

Thanks!
Kyle

 

12 lb/in = 1 lb/ft, so if the book says 80 lb/in divide by 12 to get lb/ft

 

While the units are convertable the ranges generally do not overlap by much. An in/lb wrench might go from 25-250 in/lbs which is about 2-20 ft/lbs while a ft/lb wrench may go 10-75 ft/lb or 20-150 ft/lb. Generally the higher the max the longer the wrench to make it easier to apply those higher torques, but the higher the max the harder it is to precisely apply low torques. So, generally, you want both an in/lb and ft/lb wrench.

Proper torque and threadlock is important on a Harley, there's a whole lot of shaking going on. Too little torque or no threadlock and you find you're missing bolts or perhaps the part those bolts were suppose to be holding on. Too much torque and you may strip it or find after it's been heated and cooled repeatedly you play hell getting it back off.

The most difficult will be the exhaust and mainly because they are unweldy and get very hot. Getting the bolts loose without heating them may be a challenge. Since it's your first project you might want to invite the friend you're borrowing the torque wrenchs from for a steak on the grill. He may have some advice that makes life easier for you.

 

Be careful of the plastic parts. There are some here and there. Be gentle and look for some kind of release mechanisum.

 

I hate them snap together parts. Pry these eight tabs up and lift gently. Let's see, where did I put them other eight friggin hands.

 

Thank you all for the replies...this is really helping me out!

As for the heating of the exhaust bolts....I'll ask my friend if hes got some kinda of heat gun for it? Or will a hairdryer do?

And I will take my time with those plastic parts...
I was thinking of starting with the air cleaner but then it would make sense to start with the PCV which I think is going to be the hardest install / finding a place for it....so now I guess I am going to start with the exhaust....even thought the bolts are probably harder its probably a good place to start.

What about gaskets? Should I buy new gaskets and for what? The bike has 3400 miles on it and I've had it brand new since last September.

Just wanted to thank you all for your VERY helpful info! Thanks! Kyle

 

You have been given good advice. Just to reiterate something about the torque specs: set your torque wrench to the middle of the torque range; when you are done with your torque wrench, set it back down to it's lowest setting ie 5 to 75 ft. lb. wrench gets set back to 5 ft. lbs.

A little liquid wrench or similar item can help free up stuborn nuts and bolts. I have not had to use heat on the hand full of exhaust systems I have dealt with on a bike; car or truck has been different story.

Make sure you use the proper tool for the proper job ie 13 millimeter tool when the fastener is actually 1/2 inch (or vise versa) or T25 when fastener actually T27. These tools will be close when tried and may break the fastener loose, but if the fastener needs extra effort to get it loose you may end up with a stripped or broken fastener.

Glance at and familiarize with your manual. Maybe even tab a few key pages.

Get your friend with the torque wrenchs to come over and help you with your project. He/she will probably do most of the work at first, but don't be afraid to ask questions and ask if you can try. Your friend will probably be happy to help and teach you a trick or two. This will also help build your skills and confidence.

You will want new exhaust gaskets. I prefer stock gaskets over the Screaming Eagle gaskets. Sorry for such a long post, but I hope it helps. Later, Calvin.

 

When puting exhaust back on and when putting spark plugs in use a little antisieze on the threads. They both live in a world of heat.