I'm wondering how well all this works with the Ethanol we have in the Gas and what else might happen if they go to 15% ethanol in January with the higher compression with the bike crankin and runnin better.
I had talked with you and Bob both about the woods cams. You had been suggestin the 408 cam and Bob was saying the TW6 cam.
Now everbody is excited hearing about the 555 cam.

This bike has a PCV cause Thundermax A/T didn't have the TBW unit out at the time. The are talkin about mabe changin it for the Thundermax later on.
Everybody I know wants the Power off the line and for it to hold all the way to 5500rpm.
Most all of them are riding Baggers too.
A cam that comes in late and stays in longer is on no good to them.

I was building a touring bike that a dude does a lot in town riding and takes a lot of trips on. He said he didn't want high compression on. But a lot of things he kept changin his mind on too. He wanted the cake but didn't want to take the dependability out too.


Lets say you have a 103 cu motor. Flat top pistons. Stage II heads, think they are 1.915 exhaust and 1.615 intake, No compression releases, tw6 cams. stock flywheel.
And you wanted to make it run faster. Would you change the cams, redo the heads or bring the compression up and do compression releases.
Think it has 30' head gaskets. can I go with thinner head gaskets and bring the compression up some ?
Next time I do heads and all I will be callin you.
My buddy told me when I got the deal I did that the heads I got arn't no where as good as what you put out. I got in deep trouble for that too by the customer complainin.
Thanks for yer Input Scott.
I'm sure people on here wants to know.

 

For what its going to cost to do a 110,you could get the 120R motor.I say go with the 120R motor.

 

The thing with a 110 is spliting the cases for the bigger bore.

For me, if you split the cases, there would be all kind of options I would think about beside just the 110.

I have the Axtell 107 all fixed up but if I split the cases---OH MY.

The engine has a TW400-6 cause it is just shy of enough compression for the TW408 to do a good job.. Per B. Woods advice.

With this, it is a bear to start if I forget to use the compression releases. for somebody wondering about this.

 

Good post...I'm trying to decide between the Stage 1 and 2 right now with the only difference being the cam. I'm reading that you are glad you did this, right? I have an 09 FLHX that already has a tuner, upgraded intake and exhaust, but I'm looking for more.

 

Here is my build and I can not be happier, 09 SG with 103 stage 4 kit with Heavy breather, First used the stock head pipe and Monster oval exhaust, sound was a little soft for my taste but it dynoed 110 hp 107 tq, then tried the CFR mufflers, sound was mean and loud performance sucked! they never made it of the dyno, next I tried a new V@H power dual head pipe and the High out put mufflers same dyno and tuner 117 hp 112 tq and again 103 inch, I am surprised that the head pipe and mufflers did that and also that the power comes in earlier and stronger across the board, this thing hits limiter at 6500 and HP was staying firm was not dropping off, I also tried the stage 2 kit with 255 cams and stock head pipe with Monster ovals and made 91hp 101 tq but power was down low and was out of steam by 4500 rpm, i wanted more top end charge, but for the money either kit works, it is all in what YOU want and how you will use it, PS the 103 stage 2 worked awesome for 2 up riding, 103 stage 4 uh little lazy you have to rev her up a little, Solution get wife her own

 

You have gotten a lot of advice and although I don't have a lot of experience with the SE cams, I would approach this a little differently than some of the other responders. I do have to agree that the aftemarket will produce a stronger build than an SE build but understand your position on that subject; you have lot of company in that camp. But you do need to understand Dalton's warning about warranty; if your dealer that does the work won't pursue any future problems with the build as a warranty repair, you will be left holding the bag.

Keep it simple. The cases will have to be bored to go up to 110" and splitting the cases presents the opportunity to address future crank issues by truing/welding/balancing the crank, as well as installing the Timken crank bearing. If you were going to 110", not a bad idea but expensive. If you decide to go up to 110", I wouldn't let the buzz about problems with the 110" configuration scare you away. I just don't think, within the context of a dealer build, there is real value added from a cost/benefit point of view.

The laws of physics will tell you that a larger engine doing more work will run hotter. However, the additional heat generated in your case is not a concern. It would be a good idea to run an oil cooler in your climate whether you complete the build or not.

Good enough choices but you will need fuel management system like SERT or TTS Mastertune to tune the new build. If dyno facilities are not available in your area, the TMax with auto tune feature might be a better fit in your situation. Zippers will send you the new ECM, already mapped and the system will "self" tune from there.

Closing out with cams but must qualify that I am not by any means an expert on the SE cams; my only personal experience is with the SE203/204. However, I do have a basic understanding of how cams will perform based on the cam profile. In spite of what most of us say, unless we are road or drag racers, most of us ride in the same rpm range. The difference in cam choice, in most cases, will depend on riding style. That is to say, do you ride a an softail or a bagger; do you ride solo or two up; do you jam around town or do you load up the bike and tour; etc. You have indicated that your riding includes road trips and that you are looking for more power from 2000 rpm upward. Considering that you are on the open road much of the time, you will be running between 60-80 mph most of the time which is 2500-3500 rpm in 5th gear or 70-90 in sixth. So, you want a cam that is producing torque throgh that rpm range.

IIRC, the SE255 is the cam that comes with the Stage I (street legal) 103" package. That cam is a great torque cam and would carry through the target rpm range but the early intake close of 25* makes corrected and cranking compression pretty strong; you definitely need compression releases. The other SE cams with wider LSAs and later intake close events are the 258 and 259E. The 259E looks pretty good on paper with a little wider LSA than the 255 and a later intake close event that puts corrected and cranking compression at a reasonable level. Static compression will be close to 10:1 and, just for insurance, compression releases would be a worthwhile feature. If you use them, you will extend battery and starter life.

The 260 that has been referenced has more lift than your stock valve springs can handle and that would have to be addressed to use that cam but it has a slightly closer LSA and would tend to be a little softer on the low end than the 259E. I like the 259E for your application and would stay away from the 255.

Apoligies for the windy response but since you said you "know nothing about motors", I thought a more detailed response was appropriate.

 

Cycotic,

I have a great deal for you!

 

CDP1911
Are either of these still available and whats the going price.

Email me wizard311@gmail.com

Thanks
Wizard

 

If I were you I would just go with a 103. For one you have to bore the block for the 110 jugs to fit so that is more money. Going with 103 gives you lots of room to work with for cheaper price and less wear on other parts, doesnt sound like you are going to touch the bottem end. So If I were you I would just go 103 and if you want cu in go for a 107. This way you can use your stock injectors and throttle too. NOT that you HAVE gt bigger injectors or thottlebody for the 110.
My build is running 1500 bucks and Im going over the 100/100 mark with room for improvement in the future. Not to mension what If you dont like the cam and you are set up for high comp now you mave to get a different cam that calls for lower.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!