How far can the stock clutch go. As posted before, going with 10.25 SE pistons, SE211 cams, ported heads and throttle body and larger intake valves, and pc3. From reading replies about my post and what other people are running I think that there's a very good chance of hitting the 90 to 100 HP and Torque range.
Now one thing would like to know is what kind of clutch setup are yaw using? I like to nail it time to time, so not to sure if stock spring is enough. Should I at least install the a stronger spring or maybe go with the SE performance clutch kit?

 

When I first went to a 103" from the stock 96" I didn't address the clutch. Immediately, it started slipping (84 hp 104 lbs tq). I added the SE clutch spring (diaphram), and that curbed the problem. Now that I've swapped cams, and added Baisley heads, I'm having to switch to the SE Race Clutch...new clutch pack, hub, everything. Can't even get a full tune done because the clutch is slipping like crazy. Should be here this week..... So, if I were you, I'd at least add the heavy duty clutch diaphram as insurance.

 

All you need at this time is the SE heavy clutch spring, no need to go with the SE performance clutch at this point. Ive had no issues at all, just running the SE heavy clutch spring on my build . Im not sure how much hp and tq are required before going to the SE performance clutch, im sure one of the engine builders on this site will answer your question in time.

 

The most cost effective clutch up-grade, is a VPC clutch hat.
They offer one that'll handle 150 ft/lbs when combined with a good spring.
We have installed somewhere between 75-100 of these. Good product.
Scott

 

Thanks guys, got a heavy duty spring coming. Hillside,will look into the clutch hat.

 

Aim-Tamachi makes VPCs in various strengths and they work well.

THE SE spring should hold you easily at 100/100 and quite possibly to 110/100 depending on how hard you are on the clutch. Anything after that start planning on upgrades.

Above 120/120 there are still VPCs that will do the trick and also entire replacement units. I am running the Primo Pro CLutch in my 120 without issues.

 

My build makes 101hp & 108tq, ran the SE spring - worked ok for a bit, but didn't last long. I ride very hard, so I went with the Rivera pro clutch, extreme difference, night & day & I don't say that often! Just depends on how you ride, but no matter how I ride, my clutch will always back me up now, just a thought! Very simple compared to the SE race clutch. I also agree the vpc's with a good spring work well also!

 

I also like nailing it, and that's got me thinking that I'm going to find another hidden cost to my little hotrod project. Well maybe not a hidden cost, but an over looked one.

 

i run the barnett kevlar plates 137.00 i paid for them. also another 50 bucks i beleive for their heavy spring. i have seen rivera pro slip on the dyno and mine is very inexpensive it has held up great with no slipping.

 

Hey SE, not arguing with you but I'm just curious, what kind of power was the Rivera clutch slippin on, and which spring was used? The medium is good up to about 125ftlbs. after that the vpc is reccomended & said to be good for 250hp I think that any clutch will slip if it's pushed passed it's limits. I've never seen one slip within it's limits.