We did that build on the wifes softail. Runs great. Here are my lessons learned. You probably will not need compression releases but do it anyway. Our CCP came out at 185 with the stock head gasket. Use a Cometic .040 head gasket. We would do the port work and a bigger intake valve. Make sure the bigger intake valve does not interfer with the cast high compression pistons. You don"t need valve springs but the SE performance beehives would be nice. Comp cams also makes some nice performance beehives. You don't need high pressure valve springs.

I don't think you will need a bigger TB or injectors for that build.

B

 

Stick with the stock throttle body and injectors, they will be fine. Fusing witht he TB on that build will not gain you much, no way you will gain 4-6hp frm just the TB alone.
Stock valve springs will also be fine with the 211 cam.

 

Just dropped off my heads for some work. Going with new Rowe intake and exhaust valves, also upgrading to an 1.880" intake. Getting porting job on heads and throttle body too. Hope this will be the ticket for top end work.

 

For the head work to really flow with good velocity I would imagine you will pay about 600-800, but then you may want to consider a different cam, the 211 sounds a bit tame for the work that you are having done. NOT an engine builder, but have read and learned alot from this forum. Good luck with the build and let us know how it turns out.

 

you can get some decent head work for 500 bucks with the newer heads and still flow pretty good. now getting into the better head theory every sponsor on this forum will have some gimmick as to why their heads are better. its all a good infomercial. just like the cranks going bad all bs to promote the new product.
its what you want for your package just remember that.
i think you did a good job keep us informed of the results have a Happy New Year

 

I'm now sitting back, drinking an ice cold Southpaw Light, waiting for heads. I've got the cams in with new front and rear bearings and chain tensioners. The pistons and jugs are installed, waiting for heads that I've been told that should be ready by the end of next week. And it's to be about 60* tomorrow and no bike, DAMN!!!! O-well, I guess that sometimes we have to give up to move up.

 

We sure have seen quite a few cranks that are buggered.
We send the T/C's to Hoban. All pre-T/C's are done in-house.
As far as "gimmicks", when it comes to cylinder head work, what we know here, has come from flow testing data, and dyno tuning information.
Cheers,
Scott

 

i want to clear the air right now Scott. as far as gimmicks go .. not refering to you. at all .. all the data dont mean crap if the customer does not get what was promised .. some customers just want one thing and are told they need everything but what they actually need. you know that
and as far as the cranks go you your self told me about a month ago that the crank problem that we are reading about is pure BS and look where it is coming from...did you not say that.....so in a month you have seen an explosion of cranks .you also told me that you have been doing cranks for years(welding them yourself) and have not had them come back.
so i guess that was all BS also right Scott....

 

I agree you can get enough head work done for the average build for $500.00 to $600.00
and they will flow good enough... Now if your going for a BIG BUILD I Don't Agree with that statement at all...

As far as every sponsor's head therory having a gimmick does that include Baisley??? That's a very condemnatory statement towards the sponsors... Where are your years of experience varified (from who) and what facts did you use to arrive at your conclusions???

These sponsors all have different approaches to making power, that doesn't make them a gimmick it makes them liable for what they state they can do...

The cranks aren't BS or Hobans / DarkHorse wouldn't have such a back log of cranks to repair...

The unreliable cranks was the major reason R&R CYCLES decided to build there 5 piece cranks... They had to many crank failures that ruined a motor... These cranks weren't only the stock cranks but cranks from the leading manufacture's of cranks...

It is one's own responsibility to collect all the info one needs to insure the correct parts are used in there build... Ask the builders and you shall receive... Contact more than one builder for good sound advice... JMHO ...

 

As we all know the same numbers are very hard to produce unless everything is equal... That means the builder is the same, the parts are the same, dyno is the same etc...

That being said, if one elects to do his own build and puts the wrong ring in the wrong position (groove) or installs those rings upside down, or he or she installs the cam gear one (1) tooth off etc. there is no way in hell the numbers would be as promised by the builder...

As to the crank issue, everyone can't be wrong about the excessive runout can they???

It's differently not BS it's a fact the runout on these cranks is excessive just call Hoban's / DarkHorse if you want facts not fiction...

So I guess it's not all BS is it??? JMHO

When doing a build get all the info before you pull the trigger and Good Luck...