JESUS I need help from someone who knows
#21
#23
Hate to rain on your parade, but 585's are NOT torque cams.
Before you go changing stuff, lets talk about using what you already have to get the power you want.
First off....IGNORE dyno sheets. As long as your A/F ratio is optimum, foget about the numbers.....
Secondly, torque CAN be achieved with your setup through some GEARING.
So.....my recommendation is....
Change the gearing in your primary. You will gain 300-500 RPM on the highway, but you will get BIG acceleration gains. If you can live with this, the Screamin Eagle Primary Gear Down kit will do wonders! I recommend throwing the SE Pressure plate on the clutch at the same time.
Most tuners will set your A/F ratio at 13.2 across the board. This is a "safe" tuning range. Well, 13.7~13.8 is what I PERSONALLY consider optimum.
All of this is based on my Twin Cams build. It is an 88 with stock untouched heads. I am running S&S 510G Gear driven cams with SE chromoly pushrods. I am using S&S mufflers, and an Arlen Ness "Big Sucka" intake. This is all tuned in with a Stage 1 download, which gave me a timing bump and 6,200 RPM redline versus 5500, and then further tuned it in with a Power Commander. I am at 13.7 A/F all the way across.
I finished it off with the Screamin Eagle Gear Down kit and Screamin Eagle Pressure Plate. I also added an HB 125 auto primary chain adjsuter, but new bikes such as yours come with this from the factory.
My 88 accelerates and pulls like a big bore motor! @ 75 MPH on the highway, my revs are right in the sweet spot of my cams (3,500 RPM) and when I wack the throttle it pulls all the slack out of the forks! Now, keep in mind, I have a 5 speed. With a 6 speed, you will still be able to tour and get decent MPG. My engine spins a little tighter than most....but that's fine with me.....when I hit the throttle, I want to go....NOW!
~Joe
Before you go changing stuff, lets talk about using what you already have to get the power you want.
First off....IGNORE dyno sheets. As long as your A/F ratio is optimum, foget about the numbers.....
Secondly, torque CAN be achieved with your setup through some GEARING.
So.....my recommendation is....
Change the gearing in your primary. You will gain 300-500 RPM on the highway, but you will get BIG acceleration gains. If you can live with this, the Screamin Eagle Primary Gear Down kit will do wonders! I recommend throwing the SE Pressure plate on the clutch at the same time.
Most tuners will set your A/F ratio at 13.2 across the board. This is a "safe" tuning range. Well, 13.7~13.8 is what I PERSONALLY consider optimum.
All of this is based on my Twin Cams build. It is an 88 with stock untouched heads. I am running S&S 510G Gear driven cams with SE chromoly pushrods. I am using S&S mufflers, and an Arlen Ness "Big Sucka" intake. This is all tuned in with a Stage 1 download, which gave me a timing bump and 6,200 RPM redline versus 5500, and then further tuned it in with a Power Commander. I am at 13.7 A/F all the way across.
I finished it off with the Screamin Eagle Gear Down kit and Screamin Eagle Pressure Plate. I also added an HB 125 auto primary chain adjsuter, but new bikes such as yours come with this from the factory.
My 88 accelerates and pulls like a big bore motor! @ 75 MPH on the highway, my revs are right in the sweet spot of my cams (3,500 RPM) and when I wack the throttle it pulls all the slack out of the forks! Now, keep in mind, I have a 5 speed. With a 6 speed, you will still be able to tour and get decent MPG. My engine spins a little tighter than most....but that's fine with me.....when I hit the throttle, I want to go....NOW!
~Joe
Last edited by traveler; 12-24-2008 at 09:25 PM.
#24
Hate to rain on your parade, but 585's are NOT torque cams.
Before you go changing stuff, lets talk about using what you already have to get the power you want.
First off....IGNORE dyno sheets. As long as your A/F ratio is optimum, foget about the numbers.....
Secondly, torque CAN be achieved with your setup through some GEARING.
So.....my recommendation is....
Change the gearing in your primary. You will gain 300-500 RPM on the highway, but you will get BIG acceleration gains. If you can live with this, the Screamin Eagle Primary Gear Down kit will do wonders! I recommend throwing the SE Pressure plate on the clutch at the same time.
Most tuners will set your A/F ratio at 13.2 across the board. This is a "safe" tuning range. Well, 13.7~13.8 is what I PERSONALLY consider optimum.
All of this is based on my Twin Cams build. It is an 88 with stock untouched heads. I am running S&S 510G Gear driven cams with SE chromoly pushrods. I am using S&S mufflers, and an Arlen Ness "Big Sucka" intake. This is all tuned in with a Stage 1 download, which gave me a timing bump and 6,200 RPM redline versus 5500, and then further tuned it in with a Power Commander. I am at 13.7 A/F all the way across.
I finished it off with the Screamin Eagle Gear Down kit and Screamin Eagle Pressure Plate. I also added an HB 125 auto primary chain adjsuter, but new bikes such as yours come with this from the factory.
My 88 accelerates and pulls like a big bore motor! @ 75 MPH on the highway, my revs are right in the sweet spot of my cams (3,500 RPM) and when I wack the throttle it pulls all the slack out of the forks! Now, keep in mind, I have a 5 speed. With a 6 speed, you will still be able to tour and get decent MPG. My engine spins a little tighter than most....but that's fine with me.....when I hit the throttle, I want to go....NOW!
~Joe
Before you go changing stuff, lets talk about using what you already have to get the power you want.
First off....IGNORE dyno sheets. As long as your A/F ratio is optimum, foget about the numbers.....
Secondly, torque CAN be achieved with your setup through some GEARING.
So.....my recommendation is....
Change the gearing in your primary. You will gain 300-500 RPM on the highway, but you will get BIG acceleration gains. If you can live with this, the Screamin Eagle Primary Gear Down kit will do wonders! I recommend throwing the SE Pressure plate on the clutch at the same time.
Most tuners will set your A/F ratio at 13.2 across the board. This is a "safe" tuning range. Well, 13.7~13.8 is what I PERSONALLY consider optimum.
All of this is based on my Twin Cams build. It is an 88 with stock untouched heads. I am running S&S 510G Gear driven cams with SE chromoly pushrods. I am using S&S mufflers, and an Arlen Ness "Big Sucka" intake. This is all tuned in with a Stage 1 download, which gave me a timing bump and 6,200 RPM redline versus 5500, and then further tuned it in with a Power Commander. I am at 13.7 A/F all the way across.
I finished it off with the Screamin Eagle Gear Down kit and Screamin Eagle Pressure Plate. I also added an HB 125 auto primary chain adjsuter, but new bikes such as yours come with this from the factory.
My 88 accelerates and pulls like a big bore motor! @ 75 MPH on the highway, my revs are right in the sweet spot of my cams (3,500 RPM) and when I wack the throttle it pulls all the slack out of the forks! Now, keep in mind, I have a 5 speed. With a 6 speed, you will still be able to tour and get decent MPG. My engine spins a little tighter than most....but that's fine with me.....when I hit the throttle, I want to go....NOW!
~Joe
Then he went on to say, if you build a hot engine, why run it at low rpms ? He said i bet you have good power from the 2600 to 4600 range with that build. I said sure. He said what do you want then. Harley recomends you run the engine between 2400 and 4800 rpms. Most people lug harleys and it's not good for it.
Your right about people talking dyno numbers. It really means nothing if it cant perform like you need it too.
Im going to look into that gearing change deal. it could give me some massive low end torque and help the sixth gear out a lot. thanks for the help.
#25
Thats some great advice. I had a guy today at the stage coach ride listen to me about my build a little and he had this to say , Most Harley guys try to creat big bore power out of a 96 engine. He said either to go buy a S&S 123 or have headquarters sell me a big inch engine. He said there is no replacement for displacement. And then with that being said, He told me Im either going to get good low end or good top end but not both out of a harley engine.
Then he went on to say, if you build a hot engine, why run it at low rpms ? He said i bet you have good power from the 2600 to 4600 range with that build. I said sure. He said what do you want then. Harley recomends you run the engine between 2400 and 4800 rpms. Most people lug harleys and it's not good for it.
Your right about people talking dyno numbers. It really means nothing if it cant perform like you need it too.
Im going to look into that gearing change deal. it could give me some massive low end torque and help the sixth gear out a lot. thanks for the help.
Then he went on to say, if you build a hot engine, why run it at low rpms ? He said i bet you have good power from the 2600 to 4600 range with that build. I said sure. He said what do you want then. Harley recomends you run the engine between 2400 and 4800 rpms. Most people lug harleys and it's not good for it.
Your right about people talking dyno numbers. It really means nothing if it cant perform like you need it too.
Im going to look into that gearing change deal. it could give me some massive low end torque and help the sixth gear out a lot. thanks for the help.
why cant you have a little of everything..
you can take the advise from everyone or noone at all it does not matter in the end it is you that has to ride the bike.
i suggest a re-tune with a good tuner this way you know you have tried everything. until then you really have no idea if the bike is running to its full potential or not.
#27
#29
your tuner is chris from cycle solutions from the dyno sheet you posted,he comes to all the texas biker rallys with a dyno on a trailer, he has done several bikes for freinds of mine,none are very happy with there tunes. he does a basic map on the pc3s of the front cyl only,didnt change any timing, charges 300.oo usually does his tuning with 3 to 4 pulls,done within 30 to 45 minutes. always trys to sell s&s gear drive cams 510s or 585s when you buy his 103 kit. he sells rinehart exhaust,big sucker air cleaners,usualy sells those jetscream screen looking thing that goes between air filter and throttle body.he tried to sell a friend of mine the same parts you have,promised him 105+ hp 108+ trq on a 07 fatboy.
Last edited by txtec; 12-28-2008 at 08:18 AM.
#30
your tuner is chris from cycle solutions from the dyno sheet you posted,he comes to all the texas biker rallys with a dyno on a trailer, he has done several bikes for freinds of mine,none are very happy with there tunes. he does a basic map on the pc3s of the front cyl only,didnt change any timing, charges 300.oo usually does his tuning with 3 to 4 pulls,done within 30 to 45 minutes. always trys to sell s&s gear drive cams 510s or 585s when you buy his 103 kit. he sells rinehart exhaust,big sucker air cleaners,usualy sells those jetscream screen looking thing that goes between air filter and throttle body.he tried to sell a friend of mine the same parts you have,promised him 105+ hp 108+ trq on a 07 fatboy.
I wouldn't send anyone to him. Now the question is this. Who that is good, that I can take my bike to to get a REAL dyno done the right way ? We're in Pensacola florida. You can't get the harley shop to tune anything worth a crap.