As maybe some of you can recall, I was having issues with my build Harley did. It seemed to put the power on the top end rather than the bottom end where I needed it. For those of you that don't know my build, I will tell you. 07 103 build. Screaming eagle pro performer heads, S&S 585 gear driven cams , 10:5.1 compression pistons. PCIII , Reinhart true duels. It dynoed out at 108 HP 100 TQ . This is a build Harley pushes around here. Im here to tell you, it will get up and go, but only after 3000 rpm. I travel a lot and im not much of a red light jumper so it's was a wasted build.
Here's the deal. I got on here and ask around and some motoheads said to experiment with bolts in the baffles . I thought they were nuts till I tried it. First I pulled the baffles out then I drilled a hole and installed a bolt. It gave me more bottom end. I decided to install another bolt beside the other creating a crossbones. Then I adjusted the PCIII up 5% .
WOW ! My motor came alive. The back pressure gave me massive low end torque. I can't believe how much difference it made. It pulls us two up like you wouldn't believe. The only problem is this. I lost my top end. It pulls like a freight train up to about 4000 RPMS and it drops. But the low end power is unreal now.

Now here's the question, I thought I would get much better gas millage but it seems to use more gas. I don't know if it's because of the build or what. We rode yesterday and I got around 30mpg. Don't know, Is that about normal ? And is it normal to loose the top end like that ? It used to pick up and haul a s s at 3200rpm now i have huge torque at 1500 rpm and up but the top end is all but gone.

 

Adding bolts and washers to an exhaust to create "back pressure" is old school thinking. The problem is that the cam timing isn't matchihing the exhaust. If the cam and exhaust matched correctly the volumetric efficiency would increase. If the V/E increased, the power increases also. If the power increases then you will need less throttle at cruising speed. Less throttle means better fuel mileage.

This is a good reason to look at dyno charts of different engine builds, to observe the hp/tq lines and help you make the correct choice of engine compointients.

It would also be good to check where the A/R ratio is during cruising speeds.

 

To be honest, im so fed up with Harley and dyno tuning till im about to scream. Im sick of it. First I went to harley to have a good engine built and try and build a relationship with my dealer. didn't happen. didn't even come close. I told them what I wanted and they built a sick engine and i mean not good. then they said i needed a new cam so we installed a 585 cam. that didnt do it either.
Then they told me they couldn't get the bike dynoed right and it was going to take some time. Then when the idiot wheeled out the bike he said he set the map at midrange so we could get good gas millage. IM LIKE WHAT ! I didn't spend $5000 just so you could turn down the dam power. I ask him to set it with as much power as i could get out of it. then i could control it by my throttle. He said it would cost to do it again. I was like F this. So I went to Panama bike rally and there was a dyno tune man there. Told him my situation and he said he could do a much better job so I turned him loose on the bike. Right at the end of the tune he idled my engine down lower than it was and wheeled it out and grabed a bike and pushed it on to the tuner. I walked up and told him i didn't want my bike ideled down so low and he told me i would have to get to the back of the line for him to fix it. It pissed me off so bad till i walked off.
I then took it back to the dealer and ask him to put it on the dyno and fix the low idle and i would pay for it. He took my bike for a ride and came back and said the guy screwed up the map and he would have to redo all the maping. I was like WTF !!!!!
So here i am now stuck with two tunes and a bad map. I flat out hate the harley shop here. If I had the money, I would sue them.
So now here i am with everyone here telling me i got yet again the wrong cam and a bad dyno tune so heres the question........

WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD CAM FOR MY BUILD FOR TOURING AND WHERE CAN I GET A GOOD TUNE AROUND PENSACOLA FLORIDA ?

 

The cam you are running isn't bad if you actually have 10.5:1 compression. But its grind is more for top end and the true duels isn't helping on the bottom either. First, forget the word "horsepower". You are not going to turn this motor over 5500 anyway. Now let us look at the word "torque". The first thing needed to be known is what is the actual cold cranking pressure of the motor. After establishing an average between the two cylinders, taking in to consideration of the current cam I would select a cam with intake closing that would give me 190-195# of ccp. I would stick with a cam with the same or close intake and exhaust durations and wouldn't open the exhaust valve any earlier than 45* bbdc. The only thing I have just a little confusion with is the SE Pro Performance Heads (72 cc chambers) and the high compression pistons? That combination if even passable I think would put the actual static compression over 11:1? Flat tops and those heads will yield 10.5:1 but maybe you could shed some light on this.

 

FXSTDSE2 is exactly correct. Get your cranking pressure around 195 psi. I have had pretty good luck with Woods TW-6H cams with Reinharts. I have had better luck with V&H Pro Pipe with modifications. I suggest that you look at www.woodcarbs.com dyno graph section and see how the TW6-H looks w/Reinharts. I,m using TW-7H cams in my bike.

 

Contact this man, I think he might be able to get you straight.

HDMD Tuning Center
EFI Tuning Training
352.242.9616
hdmd88@yahoo.com

 

try "turn one performance" in milton

 

Here's what I was told, Well..... Here's what I first told them. First I told the one guy that I wanted 100/100. I told him I did a lot of two up riding. He did a 103 kit with pro performer heads and so called flat top pistons and 37G cams. the bike couldnt come close to 100/100. In fact the curve between 1900 & 3000 rpm went down rather than going up so the torque wasnt there before 3000 rpm. So then I got pissed and went to the manager and he told me to go with 10:5.1 pistons and a 585 cam and that would be a torque monster. WRONG AGAIN ! The freakin bike sounds like the valves are coming out of the bike ( clicking ) and I still didn't have 100/100. So i took it to daynjet and he got 100/100 out of it but still the bottom end was weak. I had to keep the bike around 3000 rpms to have good torque. Now I was told the pressure was 200psi with that setup. Here's what I did. I took my baffles out and drilled two holes and installed two bolts. Like a cross . Man did it create a huge load of torque, and i mean a lot, but I lost the top end. she starts to drop back down at 4500rpm. But the low end torque is great now. The problem is its using a lot of gas. I got 150 miles out of a tank of gas, but also i was two up and doing a little gunning it at stop lights. I just thought i would get better gas millage. I mean i dont have to hardly move the throttle for the bike to take off and now i never have to turn the throttle over 1/2 turn to get massive power. I looked at my plugs. Back looks good and the front had a little more black to it but good also so i could knock the PCIII down 5% and see what happens. Thats what I know

 

Andrews 37g cams can easily get you 100/100 numbers with the torque coming on low in the powerband, but the bike has to be set up right for that to happen. So will the S&S 570 cam, so will the R&R 525 cam, Woods TW 5G /6G cams as well, but your cr and heads need to be set up correctly to compliment and match up with the cams and it wont hurt to have a good performing exhaust to compliment em(or at least not HURT performance)as well.

 

sorry you've had problems, buddy...the noise thing is just an annoyance, big cams tend to make a lot of noise unless great pains are taken to blueprint the valvetrain...again I'll say that the main problem is the true duals...either put the stock headpipes/slip-on's back on or invest in a good 2 into 1 exhaust ( bassani roadrage if you want loud, or supertrapp supermeg with open end cap if you want quieter)...and tuning is the other thing...I used turn one in milton once...he does a fair job...or if you're willing to travel, I know some really good folks in montgomery, new orleans, and orlando


do you have the part number of the heads?...they could also be the problem