Would you build a 95' or 98' motor and who kit would you use?
#1
Would you build a 95' or 98' motor and who kit would you use?
I am looking to build the engine in my 03 Road King. I was thinking about building a 98'. But, after talking to a couple engine builders, I am not sure what to do. Some of the shops told me a 98' would be fine and others said that boreing out for the 98 makes the wall to thin in the jugs. So with that, the said I should stick to a 95' build.
Please, let me know what you would do and who you would deal with....Thanks!
Please, let me know what you would do and who you would deal with....Thanks!
#2
bigger is better right? I'd give scott at www.hillsidecycle.com a call. I dont think it costs much more anyway. I was doing a 103 se kit, but switched to a hillside 107 instead.
#3
Not much difference between the 95 and 98, but there is no problem, IMO with going to 98. I keep hearing that the walls are too thin, but I have not heard of one coming apart and there are a ton of 98s and 107s out there running just fine.
I always recommend Headquarters for those looking for quality components http://www.head-quarters-usa.com/
I always recommend Headquarters for those looking for quality components http://www.head-quarters-usa.com/
#4
well let me tell ya. i would build a 95 in Baisley head motor with 10.0 compression and a tw6 cam. that my friend will get you over 100/100 and last a long time. DOC loves these combos and he has been doing it for a long time.
Give Dave at JD's cycleworks a call at 1-610-297-0321 he can set you up with something and if the bike if efi can also supply you with a break in map so you can enjoy your new build safely and JD's cycleworks stands behid everything they sell.
a 98in motor will get you maybe 1-2 more but thats it.
95 is a tried and true platform and its a solid performer.
Give Dave at JD's cycleworks a call at 1-610-297-0321 he can set you up with something and if the bike if efi can also supply you with a break in map so you can enjoy your new build safely and JD's cycleworks stands behid everything they sell.
a 98in motor will get you maybe 1-2 more but thats it.
95 is a tried and true platform and its a solid performer.
#5
I ran a HQ98 for a while and really loved it. It made 113/111 at a mild 10:1 CR.
In fact my sig photo was with that motor.
#6
I did it the easy way. I let my dealer do it.
95" flat tops, SE 204 cams and in house headwork. Baisley LMR-2 and full nationwide dealer warranty.
No pre-ignition, tons of torque right off of idle and it lasts up to 4,500 rpm. Perfect reliability with zero problems since 2006.
If I could do it all over again, I would do it the exact same way.
95" flat tops, SE 204 cams and in house headwork. Baisley LMR-2 and full nationwide dealer warranty.
No pre-ignition, tons of torque right off of idle and it lasts up to 4,500 rpm. Perfect reliability with zero problems since 2006.
If I could do it all over again, I would do it the exact same way.
#7
95 or 98
sedeluxe is right on . the 95 is tried and trued, you will have no regrets. im running 97 hp 110 tq on my 95 inch motor, couldnt be happier. what more do you want? a strong, reliable running motor, thats what its all about. isnt it !!!!! good luck and do your research on the shop you use, it makes all the difference between a tq monster or a lemon.
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#8
Just thought i would throw in a recomendation for Hillside Cycle. They have tons of different kits to fit your needs and riding style.As you can see in my sig, thats whos heads i am running...... www.hillsidecycle.com
Oh and 95vs 98..no big deal really, add a little tq under the curve. If it were my bike, thats what i would run.
Oh and 95vs 98..no big deal really, add a little tq under the curve. If it were my bike, thats what i would run.
#9
to me, it's a money vs performance thing...screamin' eagle cast 103 flattops can be head for really cheap...107 pistons are all forged and will be at least $100 more...if you want the most performance possible without splitting the cases, why not do a 107...it gets you 3 more cubic inches, unshrouds the valves a little, and has proven to be as reliable as 103
#10
options
Many great options out there. I've seen some happy campers and some not so happy with the people mentioned and comparetively I consider some things that others don't know to untill it's too late. Like what happens to the oil temperature, how easy does it start, how repeatable is the package, how smooth does the engine run, how quick does it rev in real time (checked on a dyno in 1 to 1 gearing from 2,500 to 5,500 rpm), and how easy it is to tune (time is $). When I consider all of these and the power output I have to go with the R&R Cycle stuff. They cnc port the heads on 5 axis machines so the core shift in the ports is taken out and the guy who wrote the programs for the cnc has 50 NASCAR teems using his technology. I do a lot of stock cylinder boring and do more 88 to 98 and 96 to 107's than I do 95 and 103, not saying that it's better I just do as I'm instructed. It only increases the power 3-5 clicks so is no huge gain but I do a lot of them. Structure wise not any difference in my experience.