First, don't flame me...I searched and all this engine lingo is greek to me.

This is what I know... I wanted more power when I bought my Street Glide and talked the dealer into a SE 103" big bore w SE255 cams with the deal.

Later, I found out that I should have just done some "head work". Now, I don't know what this "head work" consist of. I dont want to go super extreme, just some "head work" to get my numbers in the triple digits and I can feel my moneys worth in the seat of my pants when I lay into the throttle.

Any help? Thanks.

 

On my HQ build the heads are stock Harley items off a Twin Cam, exchange. From there HQ does a full number on them. Porting, new valves (one larger for sure, maybe both) new guides, seats, seals, keepers, springs, comp. releases, etc. In the end, all that's left of the stock heads are the original castings.
I figure going whole hog on the heads is a given, but it's your $$$. Who am I to say how you spend it.
Everyone I spoke with said to do a build once ...the RIGHT way, instead of doing as many builds as it takes to make you happy eventually. It wasn't inexpensive, but it worked for me.

CN

 

LOL So...what are you suggesting?

 

In San Diego there is a reputable shop called Vision Cycles. They are a one stop shop meaning they do everything in house. They can give you some recommendations and pricing.

 

IMO, there are basically two consumer choices: (1) one of the SE kit from the HD SE parts catalog, which HD has expanded recently; or, (2) a complete kit that is designed for all components to be complimentary, purchased from a reputable vendor, such as Head-Quarters, GMR, etc. Unless you are an engine designer, when you deviate from either of these choices and get cyber "experts" to offer advice, it's a crap shoot whether the results will be satisfactory or not, especially when you may not have clearly defined goals.

If all you want is to be able to have a dyno sheet showing 100/100, a street ported head (such as that offered by BigBoyz) and a cam change will likely get you there. But that engine will tend to have a torque curve that is a mountain peak. On the other hand, a fully ported head (where the valve guides are removed for porting) from a reputable vendor with the correct cams will have a torque line over 100 from 2500 rpm to 5000 rpm. The latter will be significantly more powerful than the street ported head engine, although the peak numbers may not be that different. And the latter aren't hot rods; they're reliable, powerful engines that deliver over 40+ mpg and use components that are superior to what HD uses.

Talk to the vendors, explain what you want and how you ride, and see what they have to offer. Don't be surprised if you find they suggest a cam change from the SE 255's. When you get the prices for the parts, you may decide you're happy with your SE 103 Stage II engine.

And a good tune will be essential, and that means having a good fuel managment device for tuning: SERT, TTS Master Tune, etc.

Good luck with your research.

 

basicly you can do three things, buy some SE or other aftermarket heads, "fully" port some OE heads, or get buget porting retaining OE valves and springs.

the SE or S&S heads range from 550$ on Ebay to 1100$ bolt them on and go.

Or, get HQ, R&R or Deweys, Branch head work with uses OE heads as a base and adding bigger valves, full porting bigger valve springs and bronze guides. these heads range from 750$ to 1400$ for CNC ported R&R heads.

or theres the Bigboyz route which is slightly lighter porting and reusing OE valves and springs. they are around 4-500$

I think that the 255 cam is weak, and with ported heads a more robust cam could be used for bigger torque, but thats just me.

So, theres three pricing levels and options for ya, you just have to choose whats best for you.

I have an Indy up here in Diamond Bar, DB choppers that has some pretty good full ported heads too. WWW.Diamondbarchoppers.com

 

Thanks guys...all great advice.

From the little that I know...I do think I want the "fully" ported heads. Just not sure if I should buy new ones or get my stock ones done.

I'm not afraid to change out the cams if the new ones would compliment the heads better (if that makes sense).

Another thing...I'm not too worried about price but like to shop around and I do have my limits.

Last...I dont just want triple digit numbers, I just mentioned that to kinda describe what I'm looking for (sorry for being a engine newbie). I want more of a seat of the pants feel for my money. When I hit the throttle I want to grin. I don't need some 120 something inch hot rod built motor. Just a bit more than I have. Maybe head work isnt the route I need to go?

 

I figure going whole hog on the heads is a given, but it's your $$$.

I'm not sure to take your reply seriously or not given your LOL, but I kinda thought the above line in my previous post kinda summed up what I was suggesting. Sorry I mislead you.
The weakest link in the 'build' equation is lack of decent flow through the stock heads. The stockers as they are, are 'iffy' at best on an 88" TC. How could they possibly be acceptable for a 95", 96" or 103" build?
Decent headwork increases the efficiency of the motor immensely, hence there are 120" builds offering up great numbers and rideability running around getting real decent gas mileage.

CN

 

Might even want to check into some Baisley heads Bry. I see it didn't take you long to start with the audio....lol Ex4me from over on the F150 site. Haven't been there in a loooong time. http://www.baisley.com

 

You can get a good torque curve in to the 3 digits just by using the RR525 cam with 103 pistons set up with the right compression and squish. Many people consider price only which is a 1 time thing, cost goes on and on. I'm more cost conscious and like the CNC ported R&R stuff as it takes out the core shift and tunes much easier and not as much dyno and tune time is requires. I have recently sold several sets of these heads to people who were not completely satisfied with their hand ported heads.