I would like to to know if the se crank part#23740-03b is a strong enough crank to be used with a hq 113 build or should it be welded,also would like to know if this crank comes as a assembly and if it is balanced or not ,thanks

 

Im wondering where you got that part#, because it is not in the SE catolog.

this is the crank that Doug at HQ recomends with all builds requiring a 4 3/8 crank.

if your not drag racing with it you could drop it right in, as I would.

but if your hard on bikes, sent it to Darkhorse for some work.

23600-00 can be had for 2-300$ less and will work just as well. esp. if you plan to send it out anyway.

 

It's the crank used in the CVO 103" motors '04-'06. And it's the crank used in Doug's and Kevin's personal 113's with Hoban/Darkhorse pin, weld, and balancing.

I'd ask Doug and Kevin about whether it needs to be sent; and, John at Darkhorse also. If you do high rpm engine braking and/or high rpm launches, use Darkhorse.

 

Dont stroke the engine. Better off boring the case and increasing the BORE. Undersquare engines(longer stroke,smaller piston diameter)do not take a beating as well as oversquare engine setups(shorter stroke, larger piston diameter). You can get much better hp gains, LESS VIBRATION and side loading wear(which means a longer lasting engine) by keeping the 4" stroke crankshaft(send that out of need be for work)and isntead getting some 4.125" or 4.25" pistons and cylinders. An over square 107" or 114" twin cam engine setup is the real way to go. Buttery smooth with tons of tq/hp.

 

yes I talked to Doug the other day and he told me this would be a good choice for a crankshaft ,he never mentioned welding it or pinning it ,the reason I was asking is because I have been going through some threads on larger displacement builds and a lot of riders seem to be welding these cranks when using them in these larger builds,I am not an animal when riding,but I do like to be able to feel the power I have spent my cash on and am not shy to smoke the tire off from time to time other than that I pretty much just cruise ,so I think I will be allright to just drop it in , as for the part # I am not sure why it isn't in the se catolouge but it comes up when I punched it into the zanottis price quoter price is 1056.00,

 

I agree with you I have stroked engines before and they do tend to vibrate more,but the 113 kit is strickly bore and that is one of the reasons I am going with this kit,the crank I am talking about is 4 3/8 stroke which is stock for my bike it is just a beefier version.

 

I proplug and weld every crank that has a press in crankpin, (I did two of them today). One is a brand new in the box SE forged crank. They will all slip under the right circumstances. I've seen them slip by panicing and clamping on the front brake without pulling the clutch in and hole shots.

 

CDN RG: If you ask Doug, he will tell you that he used the crank without the pin, weld, and balancing. Kevin is a good friend and asked him about this today--avoid high rpm engine braking and high rpm/dump the clutch starts and you should be fine.

I'd still call John at Darkhorse and ask him. He probably has seen more stroker cranks than any human being alive, and he's a straight shooter.

 

Yep, its too bad Harley made stock engines with the 4 3/8th inch stroke. Bad idea.

IMO go buy a stock 4" crank if your gonna split the cases, get that reworked and toss the POS stroker crank. Having the wrist pin moved up into the ringlands(bad) is a joke to gain extra cubes, it also increases piston speed(bad), side loading on the cylinder walls(bad) and increases vibration throughout the bike(bad).

 

I am not sure wether harley is selling this crank anymore or if they have just changed the part #,on account I punched this # into the zanottis price quote the other day on there website and it brought up crank/assembly I believe 1056 dollars,I also sent them an e-mail for a quote on this crank and the next day they e-mailed me back saying the part # had been changed to 23728-07a which is 545 dollars,they must of changed it on the price quoter as soon as they got my e-mail because when I try to bring up the 23740-03b # now it brings up the new #,I don't think it can be the same part because the price difference is to much,maybe they aren't selling it as an assembly anymore who knows.

at any rate I think I will do like Harleypingman suggests and give Darkhorse a call ,I hate the thought of sending my bottom end out for fear of it getting lost and never returning but I know it will be done right when I get it back and I won't have to worry about it,thanks for the advice everyone .