Double post from the Softail section.

Bear with me while I spill this out. Not a professional wrench but so all my own work myself on my MG's. Bike repair is newer to me but still a little foreign.

Bike is a 2000 Softail. I think the carb has been re-jetted but not 100 % sure. When I start my bike, it barely runs. I was having a "burping" problem and replaced both diaphrams in the carb. Still had the burping problem which I can also describe as a hiccup when I roll on the trottle. Asked a local Harley mechanic who told me that either the intake or exhasut Manifold gaskets are leaking so I replaced both. When I reassembled all is still not well and prbably worse. I have the idle screw turned all the way in and it hardly runns and still runs crappy. Front cyl runs hot, rear is colder. Checked plugs and rear is fouled and front is not. Cleaned plugs and swapped them. Runs the same way. Screamin eagle plugs and Screamin eagle II exhaust is the only other thing I can mention. I can get it started and give it gas but it will not stay running and while I am giving it gas it runs really poorly. I have the jet 1.5 turns out. Also when I give it gas and let off, the the RPMs stay high for a second and then go down.

I have not been on her in close to 2 years because of a knee injury and surgery. Now that I am able I really want to get back on her and cruise.

Can you help or do you need more info ?

Thanks
Vince

 

This is just a guess since the bike isn't in front of me. I would want to temporarily rule out carb because it is only fouling one plug. Re-clean the fouling plug. Put a timing light on wire and see if cylinder is always firing. Better yet, use a spark tester and run it on the front cyl. with the plug out. If it is firing, compare the two cylinders compression. Thats a start.

 

Good point on the compression. I assume I hook up the tester like a car and turn it over but with out starting. Checking for spark with timing light also good idea. should I add clamp to wire and then hook to ground and positive?

 

To me it sounds as if you have an intake leak and jetting problems. Have you test for an intake leak yet? What # jets are in the bike now?

 

Not sure how to test for leak or tell what # jets I have. How can I do this?

 

I would use an adjustable spark tester set at 30K and run it on the front cyl. with the rear plug out. The spark should jump a 30K gap easily with a snap and be blue. I'm concerned with, if it fouls the plug while using the timing light, You wont get a flash. BAGGERDSM is talking about spraying brake clean around intake to see if the idle changes. But with an intake leak, it shouldn't foul the plug because that cylinder is running lean.

 

Hey Vince.

I would not rule out some carb problems. Sitting for a couple of years can bring about some changes in the way things work in and of itself. Did you "preserve" the fuel, drain the bowl, etc?

Anyway, regardless the condition of diaphragms, gaskets, seals, fuel passageways, etc. in the carb, the key to your underlying problem lies elsewhere since, all else equal, a carb problem should affect both cylinders similarly.

Front running "hot" and rear running "cold" would suggest, at a minimum starting point, an air leak on the front cylinder/manifold juncture. After ruling that out, the rear coil might be marginal. Maybe check all electrical connections first, along with taking some readings with a multimeter. The list of possibilities gets broader, wider, and deeper after that, so let's stick with the simple things first. Rule them out before getting too worried or too deep into the wrenching.

If you spray some WD-40 on the manifold junctures while it's running, a leak will cause a change you will notice. If it's a small-enough leak, the WD-40 should seal it temporarily, and if it's a large-enough leak, the WD-40 will get sucked in and cause a change in the way the engine runs. Either way, you will be able to rule out or in a manifold leak. At least one which would be causing your running problems.

I'm assuming you have two separate coils. What I really don't know is if they have separate feed connectors or are combined into one. If you don't have access to a good-quality multimeter, with which you can compare low and high side readings on the disconnected coils, you could swap coils between the front and rear by swapping plug wires and input feeds. If it's a single connector, you'll need to know which wires do what and swap the appropriate pins in the connector. If there are dual connectors and they are compatible, you could just swap them. If the problem is coil-based, this would swap the problem to the other cylinder and you could rule it out or in as "what to fix."

These are the easy things to check. Start with them.

 

OK lets start with the coil. I have a multitester but knowlede is limited - for now. How can I use this to check the coil? I believe that there is only one coil. Both wires go to one box.

 

start with the air leak first then work your way to the coil.
take the air cleaner cover of .put the extension straw on the wd40 can start the bike and spray around the manifold where it goes into th ehead from the left side then work your way around to the right side and do the same. if it changes the noise the motor is makimng you found th problem
did you clean the carb out befor you started it ??????

 

OK here's a result. I started the bike but can only keep it on with the choke while I sprayed around the manifold. It will not stay running without the choke and I can't hold the light and the spray can and goose the throttle to keep it running. Nothing drastic was noted when I sprayed around the manifold.

Yes the carb was spotless when I put it back on the bike.