Sorry if this has been asked before but,, how easy are rush slip ons to install? How much time should it take and do I need to get anything else (gaskets) etc? Looks like its pretty straigh forward but just wanting any tips or lookouts. Thanks
ps. putting them on a nightster

 

I just put Rush 2.25 pipes on my street bob. It didn't take long at all and was easy to do. I didn't use new gaskets or fittings beucase my bike is new and the pipes are on there snug. I did notice that the Rush pipes were about 2" longer than stock. Just take your time and make sure not to scratch anything thats about it.

 

It is generally recommended you use new clamps. But if you don't and you have decel popping replace the clamps.

 

I got off the phone today with an indy & a stealer and both were telling me I wont be happy with the way my bike runs unless I re map. With slip ons this is not necessary right?

 

i have the rush slip ons on mine, and didnt have to remap, and they sound great

 

I'm not an expert, but I don't believe that re-mapping is necessary if you only change the pipes. That said, I would recommend of doing the full stage one by adding an air cleaner and the fuel management system of your choice (SERT, PCIII or V&H are popular choices). The performance differences, if done correctly, can be fairly dramatic. Best of luck!

 

Oh yea, I forgot to mention... Swapping out slip-ons are about as easy as it gets, so you shouldn't have any issues.

 

Well, there are some factors. First, I don't know what-sized-baffles you want to put on what model bike/exhaust plumbing.

I know from experience with 2" Rush slipons on an 07 touring model that the engine will run okay without remapping, but it will benefit from remapping nonetheless. While you're at it, might as well drop another hundred or so and get a higher-flow airbox assembly. With the remapping in conjunction with the higher-flow capabilities, you will notice a relatively dramatic increase in useable "experience."

Your options for remapping include:

1) a piggyback controller of some type (I recommend Power Commander for this type of fuel control)

2) a dealer "download" (there will not be one for Rush mufflers, but it might be close-enough depending on whether or not you have a "touring" exhaust system, in which case, at least, it might not be close-enough)

3) a method of discretely programming the stock controller, SERT/SEST/TTS/TechnoResearch/etc.

4) a replacement EFI system controller, Thundermax/Daytona-Twintec/etc.

The cheapest would be the dealer download, but that's also the least likely to be the best unless maybe you have a Sportster, a Dyna, or a Softail, which have a dual exhaust system. The touring exhaust system will get some bogus rear exhaust oxygen readings with an open muffler on the left side.

For piggybacks, a lot of folks have good luck with the V&H Fuelpak, but I wouldn't want to use one myself. I prefer having the ability to know what the changes I might want to make will be. The Power Commander is indisputably the most capable. The new RideMax might be something to consider, though.

For the direct, interactive re-programming, the TTS has got to be the best choice, but in my opinion (a non-Windows user) the software could be better. It does enough, but the user-interface/options/etc. are where I find fault. It's not nearly intuitive enough (to me, but that might be mostly because it's Windows-based, which in and of itself relegates it to second-class status, at best, on a very good day, maybe). But mainly the hoops which must be jumped-through to get anything done the way I want to use the software are very inhibitive to me wanting to use it. Instead of opening a window for the program to dump a logfile to CSV format, and painstakingly clicking and clicking and clicking, all intermixed with typing, and still not have enough options in the end, I'd rather open a terminal window and type "program-name.exe -dump all this.csv [enter]". There is no mechanism in this software to interact with it apart from the mouse and dialog-boxes. It's kind of like using fat pencils on tall-lined paper to me, with no option for anything like a fountain pen on college-ruled paper, if you know what I mean.

Along those lines, the choice between the Thundermax and Twin-Tec EFI controllers would have to go to the Twin-Tec. The two main reasons are that the spark control is based on the Manifold Pressure, thus is "load-based" as opposed to just RPM-based on the T-Max, and, to be honest I don't know what the T-Max does in this regard, but the current-generation Twin-Tec always keeps an available log of the past hour of operation, in case you notice something awry, you can download the log to your (again, Windows) computer for inspection. You won't have to hook the computer up and then try to duplicate the situation while recording the data.

Good luck and have fun!

[edit: Oh, by the way, I've re-used my stock exhaust clamps at least a dozen times already, and they are still working quite well. I highly doubt you'll come across better clamps than the stock ones. On my FLHRC, it takes maybe 15 minutes at most to change out the mufflers. It's a real piece of cake.]

 

At first I put on the rush 2.25 mufflers on my 2007 stock FLHT(electra glide std) and got a great sound. It was real eazy. I did however get a lot of popping on decel, got worried and started reading the forums for info. I didn't want to damage or put my few months old bike out of warranty. I read that if you open up the back end of of a bike with mapped fuel injection, you need a new dealer map download or the addition of some type of fuel management system. I then got and installed a PCIII power commander and a new K&N high flow air cleaner. The PCIII was pre-programed by FUELMOTO with the above after market parts in mind. They have all kinds of set-ups ready to pre-program into PCIII's. If you have ever changed your own oil on your car you can install bike mufflers, aircleaners or fuel management systems. Fine tuning a Power commander, if neccessary might take a little head work with adjusting the buttons or using your computer. I haven't felt the need to do that. With a PCIII the oxygen sensors are disconnected so you might as well remove them and put plugs in the holes, or you you can just leave them like I did. My bike still pops and ocassionally back fires on decel, but it runs great and hauls ***. I'm very satisfied with the few mods I've made, I just wish it came stock that way. Rush Mufflers $300, PCIII fuel management $300, K&N air cleaner $125 = great running bike.

I am putting on dual exhaust and having the local Harley shop dyno the bike next week so I'll let you know how it went. Hans

 

I have Rush 2.0 slip ons on a 08 Fat Boy and did not have to re-map (but may do so this winter). It was fairly easy, about 45 minutes.