FL: why not plug crossover pipe to control heat?
#1
FL: why not plug crossover pipe to control heat?
if heat is caused by the rear head pipe & the cross over configuration,
why doesn't someone make a billet plug to stick in there, where the left pipe joins the right pipe, and have a scalloped shape on it that matches the inner diameter of the pipe?
from what i have read, the stock head pipes do VERY well at low RPM, and at High RPM, the problem is turbulence around that hole.
so, just putting a plug in the pipe won't work, you need to smooth the intersection.
but wouldn't a good plug create a good low RPM (torque) pipe.
and a decent high RPM pipe (no turbulence)
why doesn't someone make a billet plug to stick in there, where the left pipe joins the right pipe, and have a scalloped shape on it that matches the inner diameter of the pipe?
from what i have read, the stock head pipes do VERY well at low RPM, and at High RPM, the problem is turbulence around that hole.
so, just putting a plug in the pipe won't work, you need to smooth the intersection.
but wouldn't a good plug create a good low RPM (torque) pipe.
and a decent high RPM pipe (no turbulence)
#2
I'm pretty sure I've seen/heard of folks using a freeze plug to do what you're suggesting. Depending on where you put it, you'd end up with a useless left muffler on a 2-1 system, or a useless rear O2 sensor on a 2-2 system.
I agree, if that's what you're saying, that the extra exhaust-bathed metal under the seat is a considerable source of radiated heat. Evidently H-D sought to get rid of that particular source by moving it down below the passenger right-foot-peg/board, yet retaining, somewhat, the 2-1-2 system with its greater system volume and which aids lower-rpm torque.
I agree, if that's what you're saying, that the extra exhaust-bathed metal under the seat is a considerable source of radiated heat. Evidently H-D sought to get rid of that particular source by moving it down below the passenger right-foot-peg/board, yet retaining, somewhat, the 2-1-2 system with its greater system volume and which aids lower-rpm torque.
#3
glen, was talking on stock pipes.
seems Hooker used to recommend fully closing off the left muffler with the baffle caps/discs, and just using it as a resonator.
prolly a stupid idea, but i got so many, i had to ask.
i looked at the crossover pipe tonite, you could not slide a "slug" up in there, there is a bend from the opening up to where it joins the head pipe.
seems Hooker used to recommend fully closing off the left muffler with the baffle caps/discs, and just using it as a resonator.
prolly a stupid idea, but i got so many, i had to ask.
i looked at the crossover pipe tonite, you could not slide a "slug" up in there, there is a bend from the opening up to where it joins the head pipe.
#4
#5
There's a thread on here about converting to a "true dual" type exhaust by doing just that. You cut the crossover pipe and stick an automobile freeze plug in each side of the opening, then use a muffler clamp over the cut to hold it all together. Cover it up with the heat shield and presto--the front cylinder exhausts out the right side, the rear cylinder out the left.
There's also a guy who sells a "kit" on Ebay to do this exact thing for $125.
There's also a guy who sells a "kit" on Ebay to do this exact thing for $125.
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