im working on a 80" evo, looking to have the jugs and heads beadblasted for the raw aluminum look on the outside. whats the easiest was to remove the valve guides?

 

you can buy a valve guide removal tool, we also heat the head to help in removal. The tool can by used by hitting with hammer or there is a air hammer version as well.

 

looks like the tool people sell is just a piece of tubing?? can the right side socket or punch work?

 

If you like to keep things nice and tight, drill the guide to the largest size in the ID and then use the tool. This relieves the press fit in the bore and will come out easier, plus it won't damage the bore in the head as much. Heating the head will help with relieving pressure as well.
Ron

 

Here is a method I secured from the internet. Source credited at the end.




here's the way I remove guides in our shop: if the guide has no shoulder or snap ring on the "spring side", core drill the old guide with a bit dia. that = ID + (OD-ID/2) = half as much bigger than the ID to OD. Drill only half the length. from the other side, tap it with 9mm X 1.25 threads or whatever size is appropriate and screw in a bolt at least 1/4". With the head properly supported, at room temp, insert appropriate sized, slightly loose fitting drift from the spring side, thru the guide and against the bolt, spray a little WD40 around the top of the guide and use a hammer to drive the guide out (or press it out). I prefer to drive them out so I can feel how tight it fit. If the guide has a retaining ring or shoulder, I carefully remove any carbon buildup on the "seat side" of the guide and reverse the above process. I use a Sunnen valve guide dial indicator to measure the head's bore. And just in case somebody has been working on it before I have, I inspect the head's bore for broaching or rough surface finish. Then I carefully select the guide OD for best fit. Fit depends on the head, the intended use of the motor, and the alloy of the guide. I heat the heads to about 250F and / or freeze the guides when installing. Again I like to drive the guide in with a hammer to feel it. I use a precision ground drift with a shoulder and specially ground spacer to achieve the desired "installed valve guide height" or I will machine the guide to the desired ht. either way - always check it - twice. I also double check the installed guide to "valve stem/tulip radius clearance" it only takes a second to eyeball it. After installing, I gauge the guide ID and valve stem clearance, honing to proper fit and surface finish as required. Then wash the guide out very thoroughly with hot soapy water. A good sharp valve guide reamer can also be used, but be very carefull of the surface finish it leaves. many valve/guide problems can be traced to inadequate heat transfer because of poor guide surface finish. some (read most) bronze alloy guides do not ream very well, even when specific "bronze only" reamers are used. Either way, whether honing or reaming, always measure for bell-mouthing - if you can't get a straight on-size ID, then start over. Anything less than perfect here is asking for trouble down the road. depending on the motor and guide alloy, I will machine a very small chamfer on the ID of the upper and lower ends of the guide to prevent oil film being squeegeed from the valve stem. On drag motors I'll burnish the guide ID with a Titanium Disulfide compound. Also need to mention that guide alloy selection should include the valve stem's material, coating, plating, and finish...among other things. hope this helps. I've been doing this on an almost daily basis for over 38 yrs, using the same hammer too <g> - and "driving" a drift isn't the same as wailing away on it, beating the **** outa things, or tapping too lightly either...I know there's more opinions on valve guide R&R than there is on which oil is best <BFG> but this way has never failed to produce excellent results for me.
DD
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Excellent point on the reamers. They really suck on many bronze components leaving minimal metal in the correctly sized bores after they gouge themselves through.
Ron

 

do you know the installed valve guide height?