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True dual head pipes

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  #11  
Old 08-12-2008, 01:42 PM
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The coating actually looks good even though you don't see it, everything else was pretty standard.
 
  #12  
Old 08-12-2008, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by extech
We've only installed 1 set of rush td, the creamic coating does seem to further lower the exhaust temp compaired to V&H, same torque curve on the dyno.
Have you any experience with the Bub 7s with crossover?

I'm wondering where they put the bung for the rear O2 sensor and how it affects the reading. Also, what type of torque curve they have compared to disconnected front/rear systems. Basically, how well-executed is the crossover?
 
  #13  
Old 08-13-2008, 12:16 PM
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We haven't used a set of the 7's with the crossover, although it does look like a good idea, their stuff is good quality too.
 
  #14  
Old 08-15-2008, 09:31 AM
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I purchased the Rush head pipes from Fuel Moto and received them yesterday. Fit, finish, fabrication, hardware, etc appears to be very high quality. Ceramic coating looks very good. Jamie sent me the revised map by email and now I just need to install the pipes and map. I'll provide more information regarding the installation process and changes in performance, sound, and heat management.
 
  #15  
Old 08-25-2008, 02:03 PM
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I finally had the time to install the Rush head pipes and download the new map from Jamie at Fuel Moto. The overall quality, fit, finish, and design of the head pipes, heat shields and other hardware is very good. It’s a good complete package where you only reuse the rear cylinder head pipe support tab. The installation process is not difficult but is time consuming and uncomfortable if you’re not working on a lift. The installation instructions have a couple of minor errors. Step 6 says to mount the right-side rider floorboard using the spacers and new bolts, leaving the bolts loose. Even with the bolts loose, you absolutely cannot install the heat shield with the floorboard installed. Do not reinstall the right floorboard until after you install the heat shield on the front cylinder head pipe. The T-clamp for the rear head pipe should be installed with the nut facing the rear of the bike. You can install it either way but it looks better facing the rear of the bike. If your header support tab (for the rear cylinder head pipe) is not painted black, then spray it with some VHT paint before installation. It just looks a lot better. I also had to remove the wiring from the starter to tighten the nut on the rear header support tab.

I was expecting to loose a little bottom end torque but it really seems to run at least as good if not better. The exhaust sound level didn’t really increase but it does have a better deeper sound. The most welcome change besides how much better the bike looks is the overall reduction in heat. Jamie hit the fuel map right on target. I road about 40 miles and then pulled the plugs for a quick reading. Everything looked perfect. Bottom line, the bike looks a lot better, runs good, and sounds good.
 
  #16  
Old 08-25-2008, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by GAstreetglide
The installation instructions have a couple of minor errors. Step 6 says to mount the right-side rider floorboard using the spacers and new bolts, leaving the bolts loose. Even with the bolts loose, you absolutely cannot install the heat shield with the floorboard installed. Do not reinstall the right floorboard until after you install the heat shield on the front cylinder head pipe.
When I installed V&H true duals, I installed the heat shields to the pipes before installing the pipes. This allowed the floor boards to be left in place loose. I then fully tightened the shields at the end of the job.

Sounds like the upgrade went well and the bike is running good. Nice job.
 
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