I tried several combinations on my old evo and the EV 27 was the best all around cam. It was in a 91 FLHS. I toured across the country and pulled wheelies. I recommend using your stock gear also. Keeps you from getting the ticking found on a lot of evo's. Have fun!
Tootal

 

Okay, so I am having a hard time with one thing...looking at the following link http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdcam_evo_byman_ql.htm ...I have broken out what I see to be my 3 cam options, ev-27, se-3, se-4. Everyone seems to tell me that the ev-27 and se-4 are very similar, yet the numbers don't seem to agree...am I missing something, or are these numbers just wrong?

Manufacturer Cam Bolt --Intake-- --Exhaust-- ---Duration--- Over Lobe Center ---Lift--- Lift @ TDC ---RPM--- Min Max.
Grind in? open close open close Intake Exhaust lap Int. Exh. LSA Int. Exh. Int. Exh. Low High CID HP
Andrews EV27 Y 20 36 44 16 236 240 36 98 104 101.0 0.495 0.495 0.182 0.166 1500 6000 75
Screaming Eagle SE-4 Y 20 36 46 14 236 240 34 98 106 102.0 0.505 0.505 0.189 0.151 5500 97
Screaming Eagle SE-3 Y 20 36 44 16 236 240 36 98 104 101.0 0.503 0.503 0.185 0.169 2500 5000 80

Also, would using a SE cam eliminate the need to swap out the stock gear? Or is that necessary for any cam change? I must admit, ensuring this is done correctly is my biggest concern.

Thx again for all the feedback!

 

The 27 cam is WAY BETTER than any S/E cam....I used 30 or 40 of the 27 cams and never had a customer that didn't LOVE it. The S/E cams are not made by harley, some are made by Craine so this meand no matter what cam you select the process of installation is the same.

I gues you could see what color your pinion gear is and then call Harley to tell them you need that color cam gear........at least the MoCo will get to laugh that day......point is the cam has to be set up no matter where it comes from.

Just joking with you...I hope you know that.

 

Good enough. The 27 it will be then. Even my HD dealer is telling me to go that route, so thats gotta say something! Thanks Doc!

 

Okay, old cam is out, new cam on its way. My local HD dealer offered to swap the cam gear for me! I had another question for you Doc...
In order to replace the cam cover, I need to pull the ignition sensor plate through the hole in the cam cover. I detached the cannon-plug on the opposite side of the wire, but neither end can be pulled through the hole in the cam cover. Is there a way to remove that cannon plug and replace it later? What would be the best way to handle this?

...I'm not sure if I mentioned this, but I am replacing the cam cover (nosecone) due to some damage on the chrome...hence the need to pull the wire.

 

Snap on makes a small kit for popping the wires out of the holders....they arenot that spendy and linked up with your manual you will have those wires free in no time....juts make a note where they came out of.

 

Hey Doc, I removed and replaced the needle bearing today. I borrowed blind-hole puller 27128 from Autozone, worked great! I tapped the new torrington bearing in with the old cam, lining it up with the pinion and breather gear. Should the new torrington bearing be flush with the case when fully installed? Right now, i would say there's about 1/32 of it pertruding, but I am reluctant to whack it too much. I tapped it with a light rubber hammer as much as it would go without too much force. I think it needs to go more, but want to check before giving it too much. I put the thrust washer and cam back in place to see how much the washer sat off the case, it was definately not touching...if that helps describe how much the bearing is pertruding. I am just not sure if its supposed to. I'd appreciate your input here.
Remaining parts should be in tomorrow, and I plan to bring the old cam in to swap out the gear while I am there.

After taking a second look, it appears that the bearing is not fully seated against the back lip. I assume I need to seat it all the way back.

 

okay, apparently the bearing just needs to be flush with the case. I am sure you all knew that already

 

Those of you wondering if my job was ever completed, the answer is YES! It went very well and the results are pretty good so far. The folks at Yankee HD here in Bristol, CT were a huge help, loaning me tools, providing me with some tips and answering my (silly) questions. I "borrowed" the blind hole puller from AutoZone to pull the inner cam bearing, Yankee HD not only pressed the stock bearing onto the new cam for me, but they were also kind enough to let me borrow me the bearing install tool, and the snap-on tool used to measure the cam end-play to determine the correct shim size. I ended up with a .055 shim, which is apparently typical for this application.
One thing I will say, is if you plan to use the old cam to drive the new bearing in by lining up the cam gear with the pinion and breather gear, note that at some point the cam gear will hit the case near the breather gear preventing the bearing from being fully seated. I would suggest seating it fully using the end of the cam, once the gear has been pressed off. When using Jim's bearing install tool, the bearing gets seated approx 1/16" in past flush, so I would go with that. Going with the stock cam apparently was the right way to go, since my crankcase seems quieter than it was before the upgrade
The real kicker with this job was getting the rear rocker covers in place. With the motor still in the frame, this job is a bit tricky and IMO, requires some prior knowledge on how to do it. I will summarize how I did it here in hopes that it will help someone else. Start by first putting the rockers and pins in the lower cover, being sure the pins are inserted with the notch on the pushrod side. This notch allows the rocker bolt to pass through and prevents the pin from moving out of the sleeve. Next, place the lower (metal) gasket in place and slide the lower rocker cover into place on the head, do not install the pushrods into the tubes yet. Do not install any of the lower rocker bolts yet. Place the rubber gasket on top of the lower cover and slide the rocker spacer into place. This will require that you move the lower cover around a bit. I found that keeping both of these loose, without the pushrods nor the lower rocker cover bolts in place was the only way to get the spacer in. Next, you should install the rear rocker bolt on the valve spring side; this requires that you move the two covers outward a bit, as the top of the frame and the length of this bolt prevent you from dropping it right into place. Once the bolt has dropped enough into the 2 covers to slide them back into place, do so, but do not thread it into the head yet. Next you can drop the pushrods into place (this again might require you move the lower cover and spacer around a bit). Once the pushrods are in place you can set the rocker arms properly on the valve springs and pushrods and begin threading in the lower cover bolts. This will require that you move the spacer around to get to each of the bolts. Once those are all torqued down, you can install the upper gaskets and cover and torque them down. That is the procedure that worked for me. I am sure there are other techniques out there.
Other notes...I am getting a little oil weepage from the upper rocker cover on the front left corner of the front cylindar. I think this was due to my inability to get my torque wrench in there to torque the top cover accurately. I did it by feel, and apparently that wasn't enough. I will try lifting the tank and snugging it down a bit more and hope for the best. Worst case, I'll remove the tank again and replace the upper (rubber) gaskets. I was very careful about making sure the gaskets were seated properly, so I don't think that is the issue. If anyone has experienced similar problems feel free to share, but I think the cause is obvious.
What I also noticed is that recommended DynoJet needle and main jet settings are WAAY to fat (fourth notch from top and 180 main). I was blowing black smoke when i cracked

 

Good job ....you have to be proud of your self...!