Ice Heritage: A loaf of bread can be bought at Kroger for $.95 and a bottle of wine for $3.49--some folks are happy with those--I would not buy either.

Same thing with 103" kits. With the SE kit you get cylinders and pistons with the pistons NOT custom fit to the cylinders. With the HQ and GMR builds, you get fully ported heads, larger valves, etc. and etc and custom fit pistons to cylinders. So while both are 103" kits, they are vastly different in content and price--no surprise there.

If someone is happy with the relativelyimprovement in performance offered for ~$1,500 for the SE 103 great--it's their money and their motorcycle. FOR ME, however, the SE build is a waste of money.

 

The service manager at my dealer said that since the late 90's, SE replacement cylinders have been inconsistent in their quality. He had measuredsome of the SE jugs that were off spec. For that reason, his shop bores out your stock cylinders on a 103" build. I put my '08 Ultra in for the big bore upgrade yesterday. It looks like SERTmap #106 is the right one for a SE Stage II setup with 255 cams.

 

When you or they do the SERT #106 ask them or you to change the Bias closer to 750. This will richen across the board in closed loop to about 14.1-14.2. This is what I understand from reading and reading the SERT instructions. Normal otherwise is 14.6 and there is no way to change that with narrow band O2 sensors. This is what it seems to me reading all this.

I am wide open to any other suggestion from others. Trying to learn more about these new fangled bikes myself. I figured Bias adjustment is trouble free. Don't go lower though.

 

Gunny, I have map 100 running on my stock stage 1 '08 Ultra now with the CLB tables maxed out to 798. It runs well, gets decent fuel mileage in the low 40's, has no decel popand has smooth throttle response. I will increase the CLB values on map 103 it the dealer doesn't do it. I will get a dyno run done after I put 1000 miles on the 103" build.

 

no disrespect to the others but IMO - this guy mentor70& this guy Harleypingmanknow what their talkin bout.
do your research in this section - plenty of advice/info already.

when the $ is right I'm going w/head quarters and gettin my wg's front wheel off the ground! [8D]

 

Thanks for the props

I dont know every thing, but Ive spent alot of good $, after bad parts/combos!

The point here is this, your going to take your new love of your life all apart, so why just give here mediocour lovin?

spend afew more bucks and buy parts that have been corrected of all the flaws and realy enjoy your ride!

you will not want to get off her AT ALL after a well done big bore kit is installed.

There is nothing any more wrong with SE stuff that there would be with the engine parts in your bikes now, but the "seasoned" parts that have some heat cycles in them are prefered buy the pro shops.

The OE heads can be worked and taylored to make the proper compresion and ported to make more power and run cooler.

Some guys just like having the SE or S&S tags hangin all over there scooter, (I was once like that) but that bike wont nessearly be the fastest in the pack!

 

wow... this has turned into an "interesting" thread...

The answer to yes questions is a definite "yes" ~ for a number of reasons: much better heads, cams, properly bored and fitted cylinders, proper compression, and proper quench to name a few.

Offerings from professionals, like the ones you mentioned, are "pacakges" of components that are DESIGNED (and proven) to work well together. The "package" the that HD offers is their Stage II BigBore. It is known to make something like 90'ish HP / 100'ish ft/lbs of torqure. The HQ / GMR kits will be closer to the 115/120 range ~ or better. When you start adding things like the various S/E heads, you get into territory where the integrity of the "package" concept comes into question. Yes, the parts will work... *but* How well do they "complement" each other?

Just my opinion.

 

FWIW: If you have an HD Service Manual check the manufacturing specs for the engine tolerances. In my '04 Touring Model SM, they are found in Section 3.1 and they provide tolerances for cylinder head valve guides, seats, valve fit in the guide, etc. and etc. The variances are pretty substantial. Same thing with the valve springs, piston fit, ring end gaps, etc. You might be surprised to find how large the tolerances are for these components to be within spec--I was.

So would I spend the extra $$$ for Head-Quarters custom machined and assembled cylinders; ported and assembled heads;valve springs and other components manufactured to HQ's spec;and, matching components for high power and reliability rather than the mass-produced SE stuff, absolutely.

 

edgerider, I got 25000 trouble-free miles of mountainous 2-up cruising out of the HD Big-Bore kit. Obviously, having these parts under HD warranty is a plus, especially since your riding a "newer" model. The HD download will serve as a "limp-home" mode should a T-Max or PCIII-usb tuning device fail. With your EFI, the T-Max (with AutoTune of course) is the only way I would go. Granted,myHD Big-Bore equipped FLHRI wouldn't pull its front end off the ground like it does now with the SE ported heads, but like spending the extra money for SE (or S&S, etc.) parts, you won't miss what you don't have.

 

Hi all, first post for me here. I am upgrading my 08 UC 9", and have a shot at some new take off parts from a 103" bike, he is going big and is selling cams,cylinders, heads and all the little bits from a brand new bike (57kms). I can prob get all for @1500$$ Cdn and am wondering if that is a good route to go. Dealer wants $5K to do the same with SE parts. Any thoughts?