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95" question

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  #11  
Old 11-29-2005, 01:50 AM
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Default RE: 95" question


ORIGINAL: ssfirefighter

So if I ebay'd the 95' where would you start for around $1000. From here to back on the road? Tunning and everything.
OK, you want to start out with a $1000 budget, so I assume this is an engine where you will probably pour more money into it as time goes by? Are you in a monster rush for getting immediate gains, or would you like to truely do your engine up the right way? If the answer is yes, what would your HONEST projected "spread out over time budget" be? Be very honest in this answer and I'll lay out for you a great long term plan for your engine.

As a side note, this is a fuel injected bike right?
 
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Old 11-29-2005, 11:20 AM
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Default RE: 95" question

I see where MegaHDman is going with this and you definitely need to have a plan. Reason - with FI, everytime you change some component you will need to change the fuel mapping (ECU) - whether through a dealer flash (not likely on just one component) or by changing to an aftermarket FI "controller" ( I don't run FI, but know there are several on the market). A "flash" from the dealer is around $150 - help me out here with the $$$. To really get an aftermarket unit setup right, you need to put it on a dyno.

Bottom line, you can be penny wise, but dollar foolish. Set yourself a goal (HP/TQ, riding style, whatever) and get a knowledgeable "builder" to put a package together for you. One time shot, save up to do, but don't keep paying for intermediate steps.

On other forums I've heard that the 06 heads look very promising from a performance standpoint - just need to find someone that can port them since they're so new.

Lastly - and I'll shutup - in Ft Worth, I've heard good things about AMS, haven't used them, just going by hearsay, here's the link: AMS I believe they concentrate on "budget" torque builds vs high HP.

GOOD LUCK!!
 
  #13  
Old 11-29-2005, 01:52 PM
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Default RE: 95" question

I do get in a rush sometimes, but usually I just wind up spending money sooner, than doing a cheap job. I am sort of picky about doing things right, so this being a side job for me, will have to wait some time to get her built right. I don't however want to have one of these bikes that has as much money in motor as the bike itself. As far as a projected "spread out over time budget." I really don't know. I have found that I always spend way more than I set out to. I am really looking
 
  #14  
Old 11-29-2005, 02:53 PM
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Default RE: 95" question

The reason why Im asking is becuase for about $1000 you should probably concentrate on removeing a few key weak spots on the twin cam build first if you want to build a very strong powerful motor. This will lay a foundation for future improvements.

Also, will you be doing this work yourself, or are you having a shop do it? If your mechanically inclined have the proper tools and a service manual, the jobs at hand arent all that hard, and you can save alot of cash doing it yourself instead of paying someone $50-$75 an hour to do it for you. Alot of times, the money saved on labor can be applied towards the tools you may require.
 
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Old 11-29-2005, 04:04 PM
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Default RE: 95" question

Hey Mike, have you looked into HDWRENCH's 98" kit?
 
  #16  
Old 11-29-2005, 04:21 PM
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Default RE: 95" question

Haven't looked into the 98', but I will. And for the most part, I think I will be doing most of the work. Thanks for all the replies, and help.
 
  #17  
Old 11-29-2005, 06:03 PM
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Default RE: 95" question

Here's a little info on HDWRENCH's 98" kit.

HDWRENCH's 98" Kit
 
  #18  
Old 11-29-2005, 08:23 PM
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Default RE: 95" question

If your doing the work yourself, and you want a bulletproof bottom end your going to want to do these mods:

A. Compensator nut lock $125 : http://www.emcv2.com/accserv/acc-comploc/comploc.htm Never worry about a compensator nut coming loose again.

B. Timken crank bearing upgrade $199 : http://www.stddevelopment.com In all 03' and later twin cam engines, HD went to a weaker crank side roller bearing assembly. This conversion uses the HD timken crank bearing that is vastly superior and will withstand the axial loads placed on the bearing from the crank.

C. S&S gear drive conversion $350 http://bcheads.com/wood.htm#s&s Reduces parts count, is supposed to improve timing, and no tensioners to wear out. They normally pay for themselves after a few tensioner replacements. You can also buy a cam that will work great for the time being with your stock engine setup. The Andrews 21g or 26g would be good cams to give your engine a little umph until you do some serious research into the direction of your engine.

D. Baisley oil bypass spring(located in the cam support plate) $15 Can be picked up directly from Dan Baisley 503) 289-1251 The stock bypass return spring has a tendancy of not keeping the bypass valve fully closed at idle and prematurely opens up under pressure. Improve the oil flow to the top end of the engine with this simple upgrade.

E. HD oil cooler 62913-00B $199 : Cheapest place to buy HD parts online is Zanotti's: https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html

With these fundamental "foundation" upgrades you will prepare your engine for all your future hp upgrades. While your doing these mods, it will give you the proper time to do research and figure out what route you want to go in the power dept. for your Twin cam motor. Do even waste time doing computer flashes(biggest waste of money), adding pipes or even intake, do the mods listed above first and do RESEARCH.




 
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