Does anyone know if there would be any problem(s) with using nylon #4 washers to shim the needle on a CV carb? I know the normal is stainless steel but is there anything wrong with using nylon? The nylon washers I have are about .020" thick which will make adjusting the needle a little more variable and they weigh virtually nothing. Will this work or am I just wasting my time worrying about nothing?

 

FIrst off why are you shimming the needle??? I guess I think the shim thing is a band aid for getting the correct tapered needle. For good tunablity get your self a dyno jet kit and go from there. The shim under the needle works but it can creat other problems as well. What is the bike doing and in what gear and rpm?? If no tach what speed and in what gear, maybe I can help you with jetting.

 

The bike is a 06 EG and I will be installing Rinehart True Duals and a stage 1 Big Sucker. I have a #48 slow jet and will adjust the A/F ratio on a dyno along with the needle and main jet. I also have an 88 sportster needle that I intend to try but I have been told that it may be too much fuel. I have no intention of purchasing the Dynojet kit simply because in the next 6 months or so I intend to send the stock CV to Bob Wood for his K415 carb modification package. On past bikes I found no difference between shimming the needle and the Dynojet needle, except for the fact it made my wallet about $80 lighter.

 

THe pipe choice is not the best as the pipe is not one to create good bottom end tq. I tune for a living so I have seen just about all combos that are out there. And for me a kit has always shown increase's as well as better tunablity than than shiming a stock needle. I like the woods needle as well it works very well a bit pricey but it does the job. There are many mods that I do to the carb such as balancing the transfer ports, mod to the slide, boring of the throat, extra volume float kits, larger inlets, and so on. I do work on them from mild to taking 51's and making them in to 53's . THe most popular is the cv 40 mod, the cv 40 when worked correctyl is a hard carb to beat.

 

The one mistake that most tuners make is thinking that everyone has a one track mind and wants every single hp, and every single lb ft of torque out of every motor. While that may be true for about 85% of the riders they also need to consider the other 15% of the riders who don’t give a flip about that scenario. I for one don’t give a rat’s rump about squeezing every drop of water out of the cloud. I look at appearance, sound, drivability, and yes the power in a pipe change, but it ranks last with me. I like every other person who chooses the Rinehart True Duals knows that it is not the optimum pipe for the infamous maximum power, nor is any other pipe unless it is a 2:1. I personally don’t like the look or the sound of any 2:1 pipe on the market, period. So for me a true dual is the only way to go particularly on a bagger IMHO. Everyone who puts on any pipe makes a choice as to what appeals to them the most, it is personal. My EG is not a light to light bike. If I wanted that crap I would go out and buy a rice burner for about 1/3rd the cost. It is a touring machine and I like watching the scenery.

As far as shimming the stock needle being a band aid, well that is just ridiculous. Doesn’t the Dynojet needle have several different notches to place their “E” clip into? Moving the “E” clip is kind of like shimming up the stock needle without the cost. If you need more fuel you place the “E” clip lower on the needle, kind of like adding a shim under the stock needle. Less fuel raise the “E” clip or remove a shim. It is not rocket science. As far as the profile of the needle making a difference I’m sure it does, but how much? One hp, two hp, and how much torque, what? Please provide some hard dyno numbers and educate me. Lastly, does the cost of this kit justify any benefit, not in my mind? If it does for you then that is great.

As far as the Wood needle being kind of pricey I’ll have to agree. But the real pricey item is the Dynojet kit. A few machined brass parts, a spring, a drill bit, a needle, and let’s not forget to plastic molded box and the instructions. $80 for this? Give me a break.

Before we get too far off the subject and the thread goes in another direction please re-read the original post question and reply if you be so kind.

 

I willpart with this ,

I am not talking about tuning for max numbers but when a pipe is giving up 10+ lbs of tq over a stock head pipe and slip on well you can keep them . I build for rideablity and giving up that much tq in the cruise range is just not correct.

And yes the "kit" doe have shims but you are also not taking into account that the imlusion tube is different, the taper on the needle is not the same and you can mive the needle to many different locations hence the ability to be able to tune to a correct A/F/R

Sure use the shim. why not..........

 

I tried shimming the needle and tried the Sportster needle and tried shimming that one, too. My bike still pinged under load during the summer. The Dynojet kit solved all that. But, whatever you do, leave the pilot jet stock. That's not where the problems are.