I just recieved my 50mm throttle body and plan on installing it after my holidays, about a week or so. Any time saveing tips,safety,or just good practice ,that arent in the manual would be appreciated.
• HTCC 1690 Pistons P/N 22444-02
• CNC Ported HTCC head kit (black 16925-02B or silver 16934-02B)
SE-Perfect Fit Pushrods - Twin Cam -.030 P/N 18402-03
SE-258-Screamin’ Eagle® Pro Twin Cam Performance Cam Kit P/N 25474-06
Pressure clutch AIM VP92T VAIR VP-008.
Se air breather kit

 

Just out of curiosity... How come the 258's and not the 260's, or even a gear driven cam.... The 258's are a good cam, but for the 50 mm TB and CNC heads, the 260's are a better match... Hell, a set of S&S 570G's would be better than the 258's IMPO....

As far as the build, follow the Svc Manual irt Tq specs and sequence of events.... Only change that I would recommend is that AFTER you do the Torque sequence of the heads, break them loose and do it again.... The book only tells you to do it once, but the studs will stretch, and loose their torque...

You will see an additional 15-30 degrees of movement on the cylinder head bolts when you torque them the second time... BUT DON'T DO IT A THIRD TIME......

With the VPC... Use 2 gaskets and utilize the spacer (1/8") sold seperately (If you are using a Non-OE Derby cover)... Some HD Derby covers do not allow the weights to move freely...

Time saving is not in the equation... You can either do it right, or you can do it fast... You choose... Fast is for someone that wants to get it done and over-with so they can be back on the road with their buds.... 50 miles later the motor has shut down because the crank case is sumped with oil because the oil pump wasn't set correctly, or a piston pin clip wasn't seated correctly, or it has no compression due to the person failing to relieve the upper and lower rocker box's due to cams and springs....

Right is a first or 100th motor, and ensuring that placement, ring gap, torque, etc.. is dead on, Dai-Jo GTG, Tittiez and Beer spot on in spec and fires on the first kick with minimal or no tweaking after the install....

 

Thanks for the imfo Shovelhead Bob. I went with the 258 cam based on advice from the tech were ,I bought my bike I told them I wanted a strong motor good on the Hiway and bottom end .Thats what they set me up with Im pretty new with Big twin so ,I trusted there judgment.
I always want to do it right .I may look into 260 cams this winter thanks for the advise

 

Shb, I learn something from you every time you post. Should you do the re-torque on the head studs before you crank the engine the first time or after one heat cycle? Any lube between the nut and the head? Maybe this info is in the service manual, I haven't read it thouroghly yet. Just trying to plan ahead for a possible build this winter.

 

Clean Motor oil on the cap threads, never used oil... There will be a little on the head where you drop the caps in, so no need to oil the flanges..... The manual will tell you to lube the threads of the caps....

Torque per sequence and incriments, break loose and re-torque per sequence and incriment....

If you are doing a build where you must have a specific clearance between piston and valves (Hi Lift cams, bigger valves, Domed pistons), prior to torquing, use play-doh over plastigage, it is more pliable and easier to read the thickness.. heck of a site cheaper too....

 

Thanks, Bob.