Wow.... does the shop think they'll be able to get all the shrapnel (sp?) out w/o splitting the cases? [&:]

Man, if you didn't beat the he11 outa the cumbustion chamber with that, you were livin right!

Keep us posted & I'll certainly stay tuned for spme more wheelie action....

 

Phil, I already checked in the cases, all's good and clean. I am doing everything myself with the exception of machine work. Funny thing is that there was a piece of the rear piston missing, and the only place it could have gone was straight out the the exhaust. It could not have gotten by the piston because it was too big to do so. It would've either lodged itself into the cylinder wall, or broke the piston the skirt by, but none of that happened. I swear, if you would have seen the combustion chamber on the heads, you would swear that someone put a screw or something in the plug holes, then ran it. The bottoms looked like someone took a hammer and chisel to both of them, and also to the top of both pistons as well. But the bike ran great before, still can't figure out why it was like that. Even if the timing was that far off, it should have pinged, knocked or something, but it ran beautiful.............maybe I was just lucky?

 

Um...sure...that looks lucky to me. Lucky the whole engine didn't just sieze and lock up the tire or spit something out at you.

 

More a less what I was referring to was that it could have been much worse(as far as detonation goes) could've lost a cylinder or both, could've broken a rod, crank, etc..... Instead, cylinders are fine, and heads are fine. And of course, your scenario would have sucked too!


The best part is......I saved alot of money switchin to Geico, LOL LOL

 

Man, that is just plain ugly. Hope you get it together soon and are back in the wind.

BTW, I am curious what kind of advance curve you were running. I found that the one I was runnning didn't ping or knock either, the clue was the poor fuel mileage. I have built my own curve based initially on the HQ recommendation, then started leaning out the fuel and backing off the timing at the same time. Got it to 44mpg now, runs great, but still a little rich at WOT, so gonna lean it out a bit more. Too much advance, and to much fuel is almost as bad as too little fuel.

 

Dalton,
I was running it at the Advanced curve setting, after I static timed it. I think where I went wrong was I tried to get more out of timing it that way, rather than just adjusting the ignition to it's first initial firing point, and leave it at that. Instead I opted to go a bit further, which I believe was my downfall......
When I get some more $$, I will call Doug at HQ up and purchase his ignition, and go by what he recommends as the initial setting, then go from there.
Even when I first bought this bike fuel mileage was never better than 25mpg's, thank god I have a 6 gallon tank, LOL LOL.
But I expect after breaking it in, and having my shop tune it for me correctly, with also rejetting the carb, I should get a bit better, if not, no big deal, as long as I twist that throttle and she gets up and goes, i'm happy

 

Alrighty, just ripped out the cam and found out I have an Andrews EV59 cam in it. Good cam, but I want more, LOL.
Calling HQ tomorrow and ordering up one of their cams, along with all new valves, springs, keepers, and collars. I'm not gonna use any of the old stuff, even though it's all in perfect shape. Just gonna build it the way I want, and go with all matching parts.

 

Cool.... Keep us posted!

 

Sure will.
Gonna order up a custom grind by HQ today.
Got a question for you all...........which breather am I better off with, this S&S metal one, or a nylon/plastic one?
Some guys in the business are telling me the metal ones are better, then, I have other guys swearing by the nylon ones..........?

 

Everyone I spoke with recently says to ditch that plastic one the first time you go into the cam chest. I just installed an S&S reed valve breather cause I liked the idea of a non-rotating part, but I can't give any feedback on it either way as I've only got a couple hundred miles on it. The way I figure, it's S&S...it's gotta be good.

The standard S&S is tried and true...I don't think you can go wrong with it.