I am planning on doing a 113 inch stroker job on my 88 Twin Cam Fat Boy, using these parts below. Has anyone ever done anything similar? Will I need to add an oil cooler? Are there any problems I should be aware of? Thank you, FAT2K.





29635-99

Screamin Eagle Pro Big Bore Intake Manifold


23703-02

Screamin Eagle Pro Stroker Flywheel and Rod Assembly


16550-04

Screamin Eagle Pro “Bigger Bore” Cylinder kit


22545-04

Screamin Eagle Pro Forged Stroker Pistons


16925-02B

Screamin Eagle Pro Twin Cam Ported “HTCC” Heads


26993-06

Intake Flange (2 each)


32076-04

Screamin Eagle Pro Compression Release


25152-00

Screamin Eagle Pro SE-211 Cams


16505-01

Screamin Eagle Cylinder Stud Kit


18402-03

Screamin Eagle Pro Perfect Fit Pushrods


37951-98

Clutch Spring


31775-01A

Screamin Eagle Pro Race Ignition

 

Personally I would say your making the wrong choice of heads and pistons, cams, and you don't need the cylinder studs. Your going to need a set of roller rockers, a GOOD cam like TW6HG, TW8G, or TW9BG. A better head design like R&R or even take your castings and send them to Dan Baisley to have ported for your build and fitted with a flat top piston.
If your looking for awesome torque from a 113' motor you might go the other way and buy a Jim's 113' stroker kit. The last one I did I got 120 hp and 130 tq....I had 110 tq at RPM, now thats fun to ride.
Another good motor build is a 107' from Axell or from Steve at GMR....these little puppys are getting 124tq with the TW6H cam.
Bottom line the CNC ported headsare a bad choice...the 211 cam is the most undesirable cam Harley makes, a 257 or a 251 would be better if you have to have a SE cam.
You will need a SE44mm C/V carb re worked by Bobby Woods or a 45mm Flat slide Mikuni

 

No need for a stroker.Unless that's what your really after.You were gonna split the cases anyhow so just have them bored and go with the 4.250 barrels.Have you done this before Doc and do the run as hard as the strokers?I see Gmr sells these kits and I,m kinda looking to go that route.

 

The 113' Over square motor runs fine...it's a higher reveing motor but it will never have the low end torque a stroker gives.

BTW both of you will need the Timken Bearing installed if you don't have it already.

Let me see if I can find a coupleof graphs of the Stroker 113' and the big bore 113' so you can compare tq to rpm between them. Run #1 I ended up with 130tq and 120 hp.....the awesome thing about the stroker it was well above 110 tq at 2000rpm vs. the big bore was at 100tq at 2000rpm (but that baby stayed there all the way across the graph.) Bottom line both of these bikes would be a THRILL to ridewithout a doubt.

 

I agree that the 211 cam is not right for this build, but dont necessarily agree the head choice is wrong. The HD HTCC CNC Ported heads are good heads, just a PIA to set the quench due to the design of the combustion chamber but if done right they will build respectable hp and tq. Also, you can run the Woods TW400G or 408G with those heads as they are .650 lift cams and build very respectable Hp and Tq. I also agree that a reworked Woods carb would be the way to go.

If you are thinking of other heads, the R&R heads are very good, but you will have to specify the cam you are running to ensure the springs are setup for the lift.

If going with the hi lift cams, roller rockers and support plates are definitely in order.

 

I agree with thethings you say but I will tell you along with many porters that those HTTC CNC heads have too large of ports and NO port velocity....I seen these heads KILL many builds.

 

I would say trade it in on a CVO Screamin' Eagle Bike

 

I believe Doc is right on that the ports are too big and we have seen many dead spots on the piston domes with that dome configuration. We use the R&R heads exclusively here as they are the right size for the dissplacement, the velocity is right, and they pull a lot of heat out of the engine. We buy a lot of pull off heads and have R&R weld and cnc port them and throw them on the shelf.

 

Before you do anything ... go to the Latus Motors website ... there are MANY examples of 113" builds with different components and some dyno results. If you are going to stick with all Screaming Eagle components ...The cam you want is either the 257 ... or for a bit more ... go the 260. The 260 will give you more power, but at 3-400RPM higher.

http://www.latus-harley-davidson.com...egory-view.asp

One suggestion ... read as much as you can and then ask a lot of questions. It took me a year to finally decide what to to ... and I figured as long as the cases were apart, I'd go as big as I can. I put in a set of REV Performance 4.25 Jugs and used my existing 4&3/8 SE Crank (It's the one made by Jims ... The Most Expensive one). There was no significant "Run Out", so it was just a minor "Clean Up" for the crank. I ended up going with the R&R Heads and a T-Man 650 Cam. I also did the "Timkin" bearing conversion on the case. Also running a 48MM Mikuni and a Crane ignition.

NOW ... with that said, I have decided on a Road Glide for next year, and the dealer I use will warrantee the bike (In writing)... even the extended warrantee ... as long as I use All Harley parts (Throttle body and Exhaust excluded) and they do the work. So ... I am going 113" before delivery ... and will be using the same top of the line SEcrank, 260 cams HTCC CNC heads, a throttle body from Latus Motors and the Boarzilla Exhaust wiith the "Quiet" Baffles. I'm extremely impressed with that exact set-up. Was fortunate enough to ride one and as long as it comes out the door like that(127HP/138Ftlbs), WITH A 7 YEAR WARRANTEE .... I will be a very happy camper.

I know the Scraming Eagle parts are trashed and maligned by the "Independent" shops, and the Indy'salways seem to have "Something Better". It makes sense when you consider they are not Harley Dealers, probably make more money selling "Non OEM" parts, but the better shops can "Tailor" a build for the individual. The one thing the aftermarket does offer is a multitude of options (Crane, Woods, T-Man, Andrews, S&S,Redshift, etc, etc ....) as opposed to the limiting youself to theofferings from Harley. The combinations are mind boggling.

On the other hand ...the SE "Kits" are designed with some compromises so they can produce REPEATABLE results and good reliability. With all those options available in the aftermarket, you never know exactly what you will end you with until you get it on the dyno. Again ... a good shop will have done a variety of builds and have examples for you to review before pulling the trigger on a build.

It all depends on what you want out of the bike. Nobody does more research than OEM's. ThoseHTCC CNC Heads are really good (Again, for their intended purpose)... IF ... you match them with the proper components and ... IF ... the shop takes the time to set them up properly.Therein lies the problem. Ask the shop doing the work if they "Clay the heads" and set up the "Squish" properly. If the guy kind of looks at you with that "Deer in the headlights" stare ... find another shop.The HTCCCNC heads ... as mentioned, have large ports ... so the larger the build, the better they will perform. I almost used them on my 124", but I got a deal on the R&R Heads sitting on a shelf someone ordered, then never used. I might be able to re-cycle the SE Heads on my next bike. Worst case, I can sell them.

Oh yea ... make sure you get the fully adjustable ignition and I would recomend at least a 45mm Mikuni. I don't have a parts book in front of me, but I do have this all written down somewhere.

 

The HTTC CNC heads are designed for VERY high rpm running...other wise they don't have the port velocity to get the job done in the low to mid range where ever one rides........the ports are too big, bottom line!!!! Bigger is not always better and in this case this holds TRUE!! If your building a bike to run at 7000 rpm then by all means get them cause thats all there good for. Just facts gentleman, do as you please!!!